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· Porn King!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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It's always surprising just how simple these conversions are, with most of the difficulty being in getting the right materials and the crappy fiddly work of boring a hole for the wires through the legs. I was planning on doing something like this for some of my Necron army, but the smaller torso and spindlier limbs made it impossible without fibre optics, which are a whole different kettle of fish.

Regardless, it's always nice to see the results when somebody gets around to hours of mindless busy work for their hobby.
 

· Porn King!!!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jezlad said:
That's pretty awesome.

I know little about led's - where do they get there power supply?
They get power from watch batteries, usually under the base. I would love to do something like this for parts of my army but the problem with all this work is the fact that the watch batteries drain VERY quickly and you have to manually connect wires to them for EVERY MODEL that has the lights. If there were a way to do a form of switch and use a longer lasting power source, I wouldn't hesitate.
 

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There was a whole White Dwarf article a couple years back about a guy who did that to the whole army. The rhino's were freakin' cool. They did a little tutorial about how he did it and all. If I come across it again, i can give you the WD number.
 

· Porn King!!!
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LongBeard said:
Very nice Indeed! :shock:
A recent army I saw using fibre optiocs in Necron models had a simple switch arrangement in the base.
Yep I think someone posted them up on FLAME ON! I'll try and find the link to throw on here.....
That would be sweet as hell. If either you or Uber has a link to that, I would be grateful.
 

· Porn King!!!
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I bow to your awesomeness :)
 

· Executive Nitpicker
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I lighted a couple of dreadnoughts, but it was nothign as complex. Used spare Defiler faceplates and some WFB elf shields for the sarcofagus, then just glued an LED up inside the defiler faceplate and assembled the body without gluing on the top and back (glued the top and back together) so I could open it up


As far as off/on goes, I just bent the leads so that they'd hold the battery securely between them. Put it in, pull it out or (because I used bi-color LEDs) flip it over to change colors.

Can;t imagine working on such a small scale as wiring up marines or encrons though
 
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