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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you have had a listen to episode 11 of the IT podcast you will know that my son and I put together a small game for racing ork bikers. This is a very rough, not throughly play tested or spell checked version of the rules. So please, read through, print out, copy, change, alter and use these to play test this and get back to me on if it works and where it needs tweaking. Or if it is complete shit and should get tossed. :p

So, here it is...


Race your Ork biker boy to victory in this simple, exciting and fast paced themed game.
Dash, crash and mash your way to the front all while avoiding obstacles, traps and hazards.
Be the first Ork on your block to earn fortune and glory or to go up in a ball of fire!


Ork biker models. The more the better!
A model or suitable marker for a dismounted biker.
A flat table or floor to set up the circuit.
Model buildings, structures and other scenery to create a racing circuit.
A handful of D6 dice, scatter dice, rulers, a pencil and a notebook or a sheet of paper.
Flamer template, small and large 40k blast templates.
A ball of string, yarn or other suitably "stringy" item to set the start/finish of the circut.
A roll of clear tape or other suitable sticky tape stuff.
As many friends as you can gather up!
Beer. Not a necessity, but highly recommended for the "of age" groups.
Snacks. The ones that go good with beer are the best kind.
A good attitude. This is just a game!

Setting up a racing circuit is a simple thing. I am sure you have a number of scenery pieces from your war gaming collection that will fit perfectly for this game. By using ruined buildings and fortified structures frequently found in the 40k environment, you can create a circuit to represent a city that is now controlled by the Orks. A circuit set within a forest can be exciting and represent an Ork camp, or even a dangerous lava field can make an exciting race environment.
As you can see, any setting or type of scenery can be adapted for a Speed Freaks circuit.

Setting up a circuit is as easy as setting up a table for your regular war game with the exception of the marker string. For your first track I recommend an oval or rectangle shape. Using your buildings, trees, ruins, bunkers and other scenery to make an inner section for the race track. This will be the infield. The circut will follow the shape of the infield for your speed freaks to race around. Setting up the scenery as tightly packed as you can in the infield ensures that everyone knows the path or the race circut. Crossovers, figure 8's, sharp turns and multiple paths all make for an exciting race and can be done by leaving gaps in your terrain. Now add some flavor and visual appeal to the table by using your scenery by placing it around the outside of the circuit. The outside of the circut is not as importatnt as the infield, but it does set the outer limits of the circut and adds visual apeal. I have found that streetlights, monuments, obelisks, wrecked tanks or vehicles and smaller pieces of scenery can be placed inside the actual racing circuit to make it interesting, fun and challenging.
Set a marker at one point across the circuit as the START/FINISH line. I find that a piece of string laid across the track and taped down works great. (Placing the START/FINISH line about half way down a straight section of the circuit works best.)

The Ork biker is a bit mentally unstable, actually, very unstable. "Fast ain't fast enuff" is a common train of thought for an Ork biker. Even though his bike has brakes, he usually chooses to not use them in favor of a power slide or a controlled crash. If your gunna be tough, ya gotta be dumb! But being tough is nothing if you ain't rich too! Bikers are always in need of currency or, "teef" to add more shooty bits or to increase the power of his bike. Racing can be not only great fun for the bikers and the spectators, but by betting on and also winning races they can earn large amounts of money to spend on, "go fasta' stuff!" The usual Ork bike is powered by a 2 cylinder, four stroke engine mounted to a crude metal frame. Weapons and such are mounted in odd and unpredictable ways to this frame. Steering, braking and accelerating are all done in "relatively" conventional ways.

Each player will need at least one Ork biker model to start. The more players the better. If you are short a player or two, then each player can use two or three biker models in each race.
These "mobs" are considered teammates during a race, Each player should start the race with the same number of models as his or her fellow players if possible.

Each biker has a stat line for his skills and protection:

HS - Handling Skillz. The higher the number the more competent a rider.
BB - Bigga Ballz. The higher the number, the more "crazy" the biker.
DS - Dakka Skillz. The higher the number, the better the biker is at shooting.
CC - Close Combat. Throwin' a punch or a kick requires a good CC number.

CP - Crash Protection. Protect your ride! Some is good, more is better. Too much is slow!
AP - Armour Protection. It really can save your skin. More armour is safer, but at what cost?

Each biker starts with a base set of stats. They can be increased or decreased with upgrades and items. Over time, if your biker survives enough races and maybe actually win a few, he can increase in his prowess and power. It is best to keep a separate record for each biker in your mob. As he increases in power and upgrades you will need to keep track of his progress.


For every 50 Victory Points (VP) earned, the player may "up" one "skillz" stat by a value of 1 point to a max of 6. Upgrades can alter the stats too, from a minimum of 1 or to a maximum of 6.

The Start/Finish line must be clearly marked before the game begins. A string laid across the circuit works perfectly. All players roll a dice, flip a coin, draw a number or use some other suitable means to find the running order. The player who wins the running order places his/her first biker and the other players set up in the order drawn. Continue in order untill all bikers are set on the circut. A player may place his/her biker(s) anywhere he/she sees fit as long as it is behind the start/finish line. Once all bikers are set behind the start/finish line the race can begin. Players move their bikers as a group. So, player 1 moves all his bikers before player two and so on. The first biker to complete all the predesignated laps for the race, wins. Second place, third place etc. must all complete the required amount of laps to place. Bikers that do not finish receive a, DNF or a KIA.

Alternate ending: The last biker still running around the track is the winner with second, third, etc. in the order of who lasted longer then the rest. If the last two bikers are both removed because of the same incident, then the biker who was the "victim" of the crash is considered the winner and the one who cause the crash takes second.

1- Player declares total movement in inches.
2- Begin moving biker or turning biker. Make appropriate dice rolls for turns, skids etc.
3- Use special upgrades, attacks etc.

Each bike is equipped with rudimentary brakes, steering and throttle controls. The main weapons the Ork biker uses in battle is either disabled, removed or unloaded before the race. But not always!

A biker can move up to 12 inches in a players turn. The biker will continue at this speed until he either brakes, skids, crashes or uses a power adder. During a players turn a biker can either accelerate or brake, but not both. A player must first declare how far the biker is going to move, then he may make any measurements. For example, in turn 1 the player declares he is going to accelerate to 12 inches. The biker guns it and has to move a total of 12 inches. In his next movement phase a sharp turn is ahead and he should slow down to make the turn easier. He now declares he is decelerating to 8 inches of movement and has to make the turn. He moves 4 inches and then attempts to make the turn. After he makes the turn he needs to use all of the 8 inches that he declared at the beginning of his turn and must move a further 4 inches.
All declared movement must be used in a turn, no more, no less.

Bikers can brake to avoid obstacles in the racetrack. Standard brakes stop the biker in a relatively quick manner. Braking is,"an inch for an inch." For every inch traveled it takes an inch to stop. For example, if a biker was traveling at 12 inches in his previous movement turn, and a large crash occurs down track he may need to slow or come to a complete stop so as not to become a part of that carnage too. Remember, a player cannot make a measurement before a movement distance has been declared, so the player declares a decelerating movement of 12 inches, (remember, it takes an inch for an inch when braking) and then measures the distance to see if he can stop in time. If he cannot stop in time he crashes as all movement declared must be used. A player may wish to swerve to take up more movement in a player turn, but must then make multiple turns against his HS stat which could result in a crash too!

Turning at speed can be a dangerous and tricky affair. The faster a biker goes, the more room (and guts!) he needs to make a turn successfully. At speeds lower than 8 inches, turning is safe and boring. At speeds under 8 inches the biker can turn in any direction he wants as many times as required up to the declared speed. At speeds greater than 8 inches everything changes. First point the biker in the intended direction you wish him to travel in the players turn. Now roll a D6 and add the bikers HS score, If the totaled number is equal to or more than the number of movement inches declared in that movement phase he makes the turn successfully. For example, a biker declares he is moving 9 inches of movement for this player turn In these 9 inches he has to make a left turn to avoid a wrecked bike in the middle of the track. The player rolls a D6 and adds his HS. The player rolls a 5. The 5 plus his HS of 4 gives a total of 9. This is equal to his declared move of 9 inches so he makes the turn successfully. Every turn made has to be rolled for. If a player makes 3 turns at speeds greater than 8 inches he or she must make 3 HS rolls. If a biker fails any HS roll he goes into a skid..

Skidding can be great fun for an Ork biker. Loud engine noises, sparks flying, crowds cheering and the rear tire smoking and squealing around a turn is a spectacle to behold! Unfortunately the biker looses a bit of control while in a skid and could crash. If a biker fails a HS test during a turning maneuver the turn has gone wider than expected and the tail of the bike swings out and starts squealing and smoking. Roll 2D6 and subtract the bikers "Bigga Ballz" (BB) number to a minimum of 1 or a max of 12. Now slide the biker (remember, you point the biker in the direction of the intended turn first!) sideways to the left or right the total of the 2D6-BB in the opposite direction of the turn. For example, a biker is going into a left turn at a speed of 9 inches. The player failed his HS test and is in a skid on the left turn. The player rolls 2D6 for a total of 8 and then subtracts his BB of 4 for a total of 4 inches. The player slides the biker sideways to his RIGHT 4 inches and then may continue his forward movement that was previously declared. If at any time the biker comes in contact with another biker, building, piece of scenery or an obstacle during the skid he crashes. If he contacts another biker, both bikes crash.
Multiple skids may be attempted/done in one players movement turn.

"Crashin' sucks, but it sure is entertaining!" If a biker hits an obstacle, another biker etc. he comes to a stop instantly, well, his bike does at least! The biker is thrown from the bike D6+ half of the speed in inches, (rounded up) that were declared in the players turn when he crashed. Turn the bike model on it's side to represent a downed bike. Use a suitable marker or model to represent a dismounted biker. (A regular Ork model on a round base works just fine.) Round all speeds up to the nearest inch. For example, a biker was traveling at 9 inches and crashed into an obstacle, he would then travel D6+5 inches, (4 1/2 rounded up to 5) in a straight line from the direction he was heading and from the spot of the crash. After a crash the bikers turn is over and no further movements or actions can be made. If he stays within the boundaries of the circuit and doesn't come in contact with an object, goes over the circuits boundaries, another biker, (mounted or dismounted) or a piece of scenery, or off the table in his next player turn he can simply get up, brush himself off and try and get back in the race. A dismounted biker can move 4 inches per player turn. When a biker gets back to his ride he needs to see if it has survived too. Roll a D6 and compare to his CP. If the score is equal to or more, the bike fires up and is good to go. A biker who becomes remounted after a crash and finds his bike undamaged can ride off up to 8 inches in that turn. If the score is less than his CP roll on the damage chart.


1- "Scratched the pipes and dented the tank." Cosmetic damage only, the biker may take off as normal.

2- "Carb's flooded." The bike is hard to start and requires a few kicks and some strong language to get going. Biker may only move up to 4 inches this turn.

3- "Bent wheel." After a few bashes with a blunt object the wheel is round enough to race. Biker cannot move this turn, but may continue as normal in the following.

4- "Where is the chain?" The drive chain has flow off and is no where to be found. Loose two turns looking for it.

5- "Fuel leak." Loose a turn trying to plug the hole. Each movement turn for the remainder of the race, the player must roll a D6 before declaring the movement speed.
On a roll of a 1, the bike explodes and the biker and his ride leave a nice oily black mark on the track and a small mushroom cloud in the sky.
The biker has been mortally injured and the bike is finished!
Remove from play.

6-The bike is in a burning ball of metal pieces that look more like modern art than a bike. The bike is totaled. The race is over for this biker, remove him from play.

Another way to crash is by over reving it and dumping the clutch, thus pulling a wheelie. If a player declares a movement speed of more than 8 inches from a stop, (like the start of a race or after a crash) the biker is effectively "gunning it" and could pop a wheelie. Before a biker is moved but after declaring a move speed greater than 8 inches from a dead stop, he must roll against his HS. Roll 2D6 and take the highest dice score. If it is equal to or under his HS he has effectively "gunned it" and ridden out the wheelie and may complete his move as normal. If the roll was more than his HS, he has flipped his bike! Roll a D6 and add half the declared speed, (rounding up) to see how far the bike, minus the biker, tumbled down the track in the direction it was pointing. The biker is dumped on his backside at the spot where he started and must then chase down his bike. Roll against the CP as in a regular crash to see if the bike is damaged.

If, (or rather when) a biker gets thrown from his bike because of a crash and he makes contact with another object, the biker stops immediately on contact with the object and must take an Armour Protection (AP) roll. Roll a D6, if the score is equal to or higher than the bikers AP, then the armour has saved his neck. If the roll is lower, he breaks his neck or other sutabally delicate body part. remove the biker from play, he is pushin' up daisies.

Taking a shortcut can save you a lot of time per lap. But it has an inherent risk that can bite you in the backside. If a shortcut wasn't dangerous it would be called "The Way" right? A biker may at any time try and venture out of the circuits limits and chance on saving some time. A "TREACHEROUS TERRAIN TEST" is required at the beginning of each movement phase that the biker if not within the set boundaries of the course. Declare your movement speed and that your biker is taking a shortcut. You must also declare the path the biker is intending to travel durring the short cut. If you do not declare that you are taking a shortcut, you automatically crash! Roll a D6 and compare it to you "Bigga Ballz" (BB) stat. If you roll equal to or less than the BB, you pass and continue as normal for that turn. (Note: a roll of a 6 always fails no matter the modifiers.) Roll above, and you crash! A TTT must be rolled at the start of every turn that the biker is taking his shortcut. The shortcut that was declared has to connect the track in as straight a line as possible and be no longer than 8 inches.

Bikers are frowned upon for using the big dakka they have on their bikes during a race. Just not "sporting" if no one actually finishes! But no one said anything about a small blasta! You can choose to shoot at another biker during your turn instead of using any dirty tricks or booby traps. The range of a blasta is very limited and only holds a few shots. Roll a D6 and compare to your "Dakka Skillz" (DS). If you are equal to or under, you hit! Over and you miss. The targeted biker must pass a AP or CP test, your choice. The range on the blasta is only 6 inches.

It isn't unusual for bikers to come to blows during a race, actually it is expected, and part of the excitement of the races. Instead of shooting your blasta or using a booby trap or dirty trick you can try and land a good blow upon your adversary. You need to pull your biker in close for a boot to the face to really connect. During the movement phase, if you end up along side of another biker and within 1 inch, it is expected that you throw a punch, stick a boot in his ribs or wrap a chain around his neck! Each player rolls a D6 and adds the "Close Combat" (CC) score to their dice roll. The player with the higher score lands a solid blow to the other biker causing him to take an AP roll. If the AP roll is passed, nothing further happens and the biker goes his merry way. If he fails his AP then he crashes. If the score is a tie, no hits connect and it is a draw.

Before a race starts all players must agree to a set number of laps to be completed. Keep track of each bikers laps and final position on a sheet of paper or in a notebook.

1st place: 100 teef and 20 VP's.
2nd place: 50 teef and 10 VP's.
3rd place: 20 teef and 5 VP's.
Fourth place and lower get a kick in the backside for being a worthless git!

All the teef in the world are useless unless you spend em! Use your loot to upgrade your ride, your armour, do some betting and even, ahem... cheat a little.
(Hey, it's only cheating if you get caught!)

(all upgrades are per biker not for entire biker mobz)

"IF YA WANT MORE INCHES, STROKE IT!" Increases the engine size and makes more power. Can only be upgraded on a single bike once. With the bigger engine a bikers max speed is increased by 2 inches. 100 teef.

"GO MAN GO!" Add a bottle of Nitrous Oxide for temporary increases in speed. 3 times during a single race the bottle can be used but only if a speed of 12 inches is declared first. Roll 2D6 and add the highest single dice score to the inches traveled. Roll doubles 1's or 6's and the engine leans out and explodes, the biker is removed from play. Can be used in conjunction with the big engine upgrade but not the suppacharged upgrade. Only one bottle per bike per race. Bottle must be refilled between races even if not used. 10 teef per race.

"SUPPA-CHARGED!" A suppa-charger adds more air into the combustion chamber for more power. More power means more speed. A suppa-charged bike can move up to 4 inches more per turn but can blow up if the engine if not tuned right. Roll a D6 every time the biker exceeds 14 inches in a movement phase. On a roll of a 1 the engine leans out and explodes.
The biker is removed from play.
Can be used with the big engine upgrade but not the "GO MAN GO" upgrade.
200 teef.

"TWEEKED CARBS" Tuning is an important part of a well maintained machine. Avoid costly engine explosions with this custom tune up. Removes the possibility of engine damage from the "GO MAN GO" and SUPPA-CHARGED" mods.
(No engine damage is done if double 1's or 6's are rolled for the Go Man Go, or if a 1 is rolled for suppa-charged engines.)
100 teef.

"PURRIN' LIKE A SQUIG" Add a custom exhaust system to your bike to extract all the power you can and to make it sound like a monster! Used to safely get all the power out of an engine. Increase maximum movement by 1 inch.
20 teef.

"STRETCHED SWINGARM" A longer rear swingarm will give more traction to the rear tire when accelerating from a stop. If you have this upgrade you cannot pull a wheelie. With a longer wheelbase turning can be more difficult. Subtract 1 point from the bikers "Handling Skillz" (HS).
30 teef.

"STOPPIN' POWER" Add a big brake kit to your ride to be able to make those quick stops. Reduces the stopping distance to half. Example: Declared speed of 10 inches, stopping distance is only 5 inches. Round all inches up.
80 teef.

"LOWRIN' KIT" Drops the ride height down a substantial amount to increase handling and the ability to corner. Add 2 to the "Handling Skillz" (HS) stat. Cannot be used with the "STRETCHED SWINGARM" upgrade.
40 teef.

"GRIPPY TIREZ" Add some sticky slicks or knobby mudders, (depending on the terrain and course type) to your bike to help from going into a skid. Re-roll any failed "Bigga Ballz" (BB) tests due to skidding. Only one re-roll per test. No re-rolling a re-roll!
60 teef.

"RASH GUARDS" Face it, your going to lay your bike down. How bad it turns out all depends on the protection you add to it. Add a set of rash guards to protect the soft bits. Reduce 1 point to your CP stat.
30 teef.

"LIGHT ARMOUR" Good for something, but not everything. Reduce damage to the bike by 1 on the damage chart to a minimum of 1. Reduce top speed movement by 1 inch. Can be used in conjunction with Rash Guards.
40 teef.

"HEAVY ARMOUR" It's now classified as a two wheeled tank! Reduces your max movement by 4 inches, reduce your CP by 2 and reduce the damage to the bike by 2 on the damage chart to a minimum of 1. Cannot be used with rash guards or light armour.
80 teef.

"BULLIT PROOFED BITZ" Have the local Mek tear into your bike and use some of the strongest materials around to make your bike "Bullit Proofed." Increases the chance of a do it yourself repair being successful. Now a roll of 3-6 is a fixed result.
Can be used with any upgrade except "Choppa's For Life."
50 teef.

"CHOPPA'S FOR LIFE" Choppa's are stripped down, ultra light bikes. The biker has removed everything unnecessary or that could slow him down. Speed is the goal! Add 8 inches to the max speed but also add 2 points to the CP stat to a max of 6. Also, add 2 to all rolls on the bike damage chart! Cannot be use with any other bike armour upgrade or booby traps.
FREEBIE, ZIP, ZERO, NADA... (you'll need those teef to pay the Doc and the Mek later!)

"LEATHER JACKET" Made from some poor "animals" skin, this leather jacket offers minimal protection at a minimal cost. Subtract 1 to your AS stat.
20 teef.

"PLATED LEATHERS" Add some metal bits to reinforce and protect those tender spots, maybe even a lid for your head. Subtract 2 to your AS stat.
60 teef.

"FULL METAL JACKET" Massive amounts of plate steel and other bits make this a hard nut to crack! But the weight restricts movement too. Subtract 2 from your AP, HS and CC stats.
Max speed is reduced by 2 inches.
100 teef.


"OIL SLICK" Release a load of super slick oil on the track behind you and cause others to skid out. Once per game you can dump an oil slick but only if the biker is traveling faster then 6 inches. Use a flamer template behind the biker with the narrow end touching the back of the bike. This is the oil slick. Any bikes caught under the template either fully or partially is affected and goes into a skid instantly. Roll for a skid as normal but roll a separate D6 to find which direction the skidding biker goes. A roll of a 1-3 the biker goes left, a roll of a 4-6 the biker goes right. Leave the template on the circuit until the beginning of the dispensing players next turn.
20 Teef per race.

"CALTROPS" Release a bucket full of sharp spikey balls across the circuit to really mess up the bikers behind you! Once per game you may release the caltrops behind you only if you are going faster than 6 inches. Once released, place a small blast template behind the biker. Any biker either fully or partially under the template runs the risk of going into a skid from flat tires. Bikers under the template roll a D6 against the "Crash Protection" (CP) stat. Roll equal to or less than the CP and no damage is done. Roll above the CP and tire damage is taken and the biker goes into a skid. Roll an extra D6 to determine the skids direction. 1-3 the biker goes left, 4-6 he goes right. If a biker enters, goes through or leaves a caltrop area he must make a roll against his CP. Remove the template at the beginning of the dispensing players next turn.
50 Teef per race.

"DAKKA, DAKKA, DAKKA!!!" Ooops... it looks like a few rounds were still in the dakka gun on the bike! Once per game a biker may pull the trigger on his dakka gun and blast away at unsuspecting bikers in front of him. Declare the shot first then measure to see if the target is in range. If it isn't in range the shot automatically misses. If it is in range, roll a D6 against the bikers DS stat. If the dice result is equal to or below, he hits! The target must make a roll against his CP AND AP! Fail either test and the bike and/or biker is effectivally killed or destryed, remove from play.
Dakka gun range: 18 inches.
40 teef.

"BIG BOOM!" This either, not-so-bright or suicidal biker has filled a satchel full of explosives and strapped it to his bike. If he isn't first, then he ain't gunna be last! At any point during a race the biker can pull the pin on his "BIG BOOM" bomb. Roll a D6 when you want the pin to be pulled. On a roll of a 1, nothing happens, the bomb is a dud. on a 2-6, KA-BOOM! Place the large blast template over the center of the exploding biker. He is instantly vaporized and no AP or CP rolls are allowed. Any other biker caught fully or partially under the blast template is caught in the explosion. The biker(s) and his ride must take both an AP and CP rolls. If either test fails, remove from play.
10 teef.

"FRIGGIN' WITH THE RIGGIN' " Before a race starts, you can sabotage another bikers ride. A biker may make as many sabotage attempts per race as he can afford. At the start of the race you may choose one competing biker to make one roll on the sabotage chart for every attempt you paid for before he moves but after he or she declares the bikers movement speed.
150 teef per sabotage attempt.

1- Loose spark plug cable. Loose half of the declared movement for this turn due to a misfiring engine. The biker finds the fault and fixes it before the next turn.

2- Cut fuel line. The bike stalls out on the start line and the biker spends this turn repairing the supply line. May continue as normal in the following turn.

3- Flat tire. The biker finds that his tires have the air let out but not before he is already going! Make a skid test at the end of the bikers movement.

4- Stuck throttle! The biker tears off at full speed no matter the declared speed. The throttle will continue to stay stuck causing the biker to be at full speed until he crashes or finishes the race.

5- Promethium in the fuel tank. The biker doesn't know it, but his fuel supply is contaminated with a highly explosive liquid. The bikers engine cannot handle the super volitile fuel and explades on the spot! Place the large blast template over the sabotaged biker. Other bkers under the template or partially under the template must take an AP AND A CP test. The sabotaged biker is a smoldering blob, remove from play.

6- What the...? The sabotage attempt has failed, nothing happens.
Better luck next time!

Once during a race you can have your indentured grots place a thick cable across the course and anchor it to a building, pole or other solid object. Use a piece of string or other sutable object to represent the cable. The cable is just high enough to catch a speeding biker in the chest and cause him to be come to a very abrupt stop! Place an unmounted biker model directly on the wire. The bike will continue directly forward for the rest of the declared movement and crash. If it comes in contact with an object the bike stops imediately. Make a CP roll to see if the bike is damaged. If it fails the CP roll, roll on the Bike Damage chart. The biker Must make a AP test or become split in two! Once per race per Mob.
50 teef.

"HIT ME WIT YER BEST SHOT" You got a few "friends" in the stands watching the races. During the race you can have them take a single "pot-shot" at other bikers with a rather large caliber rifle. Roll a single D6 for every "friend" in the stands. On a 6 they actually hit someone! Choose one biker for each hit scored to make an AP or CP test, your choice.
50 teef per "friend" per race.

"CRY HAVOC AND LET SLIP THE SQUIGS OF RACIN' " More than just a tasty snack, a Squig can rip your face off and cause general mayhem if left unchecked. They are even worse if they are from the Tankbusta's camp! For a small fee you can "borrow" a few Bomb Squigs from the Tankbusta's watching the races. Bomb Squigs can be released anywhere on the track during the race, If he catches up to a biker he gets excited and explodes violently. Place the Bomb Squig anywhere on the circuit you wish. Once released a Squig is a bit unpredictable so roll a scatter dice and 2D6. If the scatter dice is a hit, you may move the squig in any direction up to the total of the 2D6. If it is a scatter, the squig has a mind of it's own and charges off in the indicated direction the full number of inches rolled on the 2D6. For every turn that a squig is on the circut you must roll for movement. A bomb squig will only detonate on contact with a biker and may remain in play until it goes boom. Once a Bomb Squig makes contact with a biker, follow the rules for, "BIG BOOM" with the template centered over the targeted biker. Use at your own risk!
50 teef per Bomb Squig. (Limit of 3 Bomb Squigs per mob per race.)


This section is intended to be campaign style extra rules. Again, I haven't play tested this out so it could be a bit screwy. Git it a go and let me know what works and what doesn't.

You can never have enough help from the local Mek, grots or yer so called "friends." Flash some cash and ya might get some help! Bribe is such a dirty word, lets call it "extra services" ok?

"I GOT YER GUBBIN'S RIGHT HERE" Having a Mek on your side sure does help. Without a Mek, you have a hard time just remembering lefty loosy-righty tighty! If you damage a bike durring a race, it might not be a total write off just yet. You can opt to make a "Do it Yerself" repair and try and save your scooter! When repairs to a bike are necessary, roll a D6, on a score of a 1-3 you didn't do it right, the bike is trashed even worse and you wasted your time and money! The bike is beyond repair and scraped. You can opt to hire a Mek to get it done right... well at least more right then you could do! With a Mek in your camp, don't worry about that pesky dice roll.
200 toof flat rate per bike.

"STUPID GIT!" Grots help maintain your bike and fetch you some grub between races. For every Grot you have in your indentured service, you can re-roll any dice result.
remember, you cannot re-roll a re-roll!
10 teef per sniveling Grot, per race.

"A LITTLE FRIENDLY ADVICE" The local boys know the circuit pretty well. Well enough to know a really good shortcut that can save you a lot of time. Pay em' enough and they will let you in on the secret! Automatically pass all Treacherous Terrain Tests (TTT) during the race.
150 teef per race

"PSSST... OVER HERE BUDDY" Sneaky tactics are nothing new, but this is a new low even for you! Have a competitor that's got ya worried? Have him "taken care of" before the race. Pay the fee and the competitor is removed from the race... and never heard from again... No one will suspect you were behind it... but do you really care if they did? Didn't think so.
500 teef per "contract"

Bikers hangout in groups called mobs. The more bikers in a mob, the more powerful they are. There is no upper limit to your mobs size. You can pick and choose who participates in specific races due to the course layout or the competitors they may face. Each Mob starts with 3 bikers all with base stats, base bikes and 100 teef between them. How you spread the wealth is all up to you. Do you spend a little bit on each biker, or do you put all your teef in one basket and kit out one biker to the hilt? Or are you a cheap git and don't spend a toof on any of them? The choice is yours to make!

Bikers are very loyal to their bikes. They treat them better then their fellow mob members! You cannot split a biker and his bike voluntarily. You can have multiple bikes for one biker though, but only that biker can ride his bikes. When selling or trading a bike or biker, it is sold or traded from one mob to another but never from within the same mob. There are a couple of different options to recruit new bikers or bikes to your mob.

First, you can lure a new biker to your mob for 150 teef.
He starts with the base stats and base bike.
Second, is to win a biker in a bet. His bike and all his upgrades and stats transfer over to you.
Third, you can barter and trade between other players.

If a biker looses his ride due to a bet or some other way, or simply wants to have a second or even a third bike he can buy a new bike with base stats for 100 teef.
He may also barter, trade or buy a used bike from a different mob.

If a biker gets killed but his bike survives you have a few options.
First, you can hire a new biker, (with base stats) for 50 teef to ride the bike.
Second, you can buy or trade between other mobs for a bikeless biker.
Third, You can sell or tade the bike to another mob.
(You cannot part-out the used bike. It is an all-or-nothing venture.)

You also have the choice to drop bikes and bikers from a mob by giving them the boot! Once a bike or biker has been given the boot from one mob, they can be picked up by any other mob for no fee's. Finders keepers, losers weepers! If no one picks them up, they are no longer available and considered gone for good.

A notebook or set of index cards should be used to keep track of your mob, it's upgrades, winnings, loosings and other stuff. I find that individual index cards for bikers and for bikes is really handy. You can keep track of a specific biker and his bike(s) with relative ease this way. Plus trading is easy, just hand over the card(s) to the new owner!

Betting is done on almost every speed freaks rave throughout the galaxy. Although it is not mandatory, it is certainly encouraged. Teef change hands faster than you can say "Ready, Set...Go!" A player may bet any amount of teef on a race on any biker he wants to, not just on himself. Teef won go into his winnings total and can be used or gambled as he sees fit. Be creative in your gambling bets, it doesn't just have to be on the winner of a race, but who bites the dust first, or who crashes the most. Use your imagination.

You may make a bet beyond your means, (place a bet with teef you don't have in your possession) but it is not a good idea, but can be done. A player may bet up to double his current amount actually in his possession. It isn't wise to bet beyond your means, but greed can be good! If you loose a bet and cannot pay up, the player you lost to now owns one of your rides, his or her choice too! You loose one bikers profile to the person you bet with, (not the actual model, just the profile.) The winner of the bikers profile is added to his or hers "mob" and can be used, sold or traded as he/she sees fit.

That's about it. I hope you have fun with the game. Please feel free to add, remove or modify the rules as you see fit and to let me know what you think of it and what needs to be worked on. I also grant permission to copy and distruibute freely with the one exception, please make sure you give me the credit for it! But most of all, enjoy!

-SPEED FREEKS RACIN' BY: UNFORGIVEN302 and his little Grot-

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