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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1) Can anyone recommend a good, grey primer, preferably one sold at stores like Michael's and railroad hobby stores?

I want something darker than GW white primer, but not as "dirty" as Black.

2) How do I safely remove GW primer from plastic miniatures with minimal fuss? Simple Green's a joke for this; removes everything down to primer but no more. Preferably household cleaners that can be found in supermarkets...

Thank you.

P.S.

Is it possible to spray over an existing coat of primer without obscuring detail or Bad Things happening? I've decided to switch away from black spray primer after priming half my bitz...
 

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Grand Lord Munchkin
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Are you in the US? If so then superclean will take that paint right off.
 

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If the paint is a thin coat, then you should be ok.

Have you tried the foundation paints? They cover over black fairly well.
 

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I'm guessing you're in america but in the uk we have fairy power spray or dettol (used neat) which will strip most stuff.

As for primers, most car based spray primers will work nicely fir models. There is always the spray gun option or failing that there is the army painter, however, I have seen mixed results with it but some people swear by it.
 

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Simple green struggles with enamel based primers. The solvent just can't cut the paint.

For plastics, I've had good results with brake/transmission fluid (dot4).
Takes off primer as easily as acrylic topcoats.
But is highly toxic, so make sure you were rubber gloves and goggles.
 

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Grand Lord Munchkin
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You only need to weir rubber gloves and goggles if you are spastic enough to get it in your eyes and forgetful enough to not recall you touched it. Simply wash your hands with warm water and you will be fine.
If you go with Simple Green make sure you get this:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh, that. I was using a different brand, which might explain my difficulties.

Thanks for the replies, but I'd prefer not to use brake fluid because of said issues. Can anyone else list alternatives available in the US?
 

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Grand Lord Munchkin
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Super Clean. $7 for a gal at wm(Wal-mart).
 

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Pine Sol. Available anywhere. Don't get "Pine Cleaner" get normal straight up yellow pine-sol. For metal, straight up, it'll eat every bit of paint with a little toothbrushing. For Plastic, 50/50 cut with water, soak for about an hour. Any longer and the plastic softens. But it is fantastic. And non-toxic, at least in comparison to Brake Fluid.

And as for Primers: Krylon White, Red, Grey, and Black. Available at Wal-mart and almost anywhere else. Dries in 15 minutes. Environment resistant, almost never fuzzes or glops. Fantastic stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, thanks for the help. Has anyone tried spraying over already-primed models with a different shade of primer? (See original P.S.)
 

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Grand Lord Munchkin
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No, take the paint off.
 

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blahblahblahblah
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spraying primer over primer can sometimes just go badly, definitely worth saving your time and just starting from scratch again, the only sprays you should put over primer are proper model paints like humbrol acrylics and stuff.
 

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Ok, thanks for the help. Has anyone tried spraying over already-primed models with a different shade of primer? (See original P.S.)
Depending on how careful you were with the original coat, you might lose some of the detail by respraying...which would suck.
 

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Grand Lord Munchkin
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Just to warn you...... the models will smell a bit strong.
 

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Simple green struggles with enamel based primers. The solvent just can't cut the paint.

For plastics, I've had good results with brake/transmission fluid (dot4).
Takes off primer as easily as acrylic topcoats.
:goodpost: This..does a very good job, zero damage to plastic and leaves no smell either - just remember to put a lid on so it 'activates' quicker.

Also works great on metals...takes it back to bare.
 

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50/50 mix with water, don't use for more than an hour on plastics. It will dry out your hands if you don't wear gloves, but there's little other risk.
 
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