New to conversions
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Joined
·
881 Posts
oh boy where to begin...
Plasticard you can get from places like Bits&Kits. You're in UK right? You might have a Modelzone shop near you, they might have some. Otherwise recycle packaging is always a good option (although it's not the same as true plasicard).
Greenstuff you can get online. Modelzone will have Milliput. But if you're a beginner converter and perhaps sculptor, maybe go for milliput as it's good for gap filling, it's cheaper and larger quanitity than GS.
Things to convert:
Try to begin with just altering your existing models. Use old ones as experiments. And start getting into pinning every joint on new models as you build them. That'll get you into practice for posing them in dramatic postions later.
Common areas to convert are things like; Heads, Weapons, Poses, then adding stuff. More advanced is when you start to remove stuff, hacking and merging things. This is when the milliput comes in handy. More advance than that starts to involve fabricating around parts, trims, details, some thought upon layout/design.
There's loads more that could be added, but I fear I may waffle into 'become one with the minature sky converter'. Woops already done it, sorry.
Bases are a good place to start - Try to add to the overall model without actually adding to the model itself is tricky. But it'll get you into the mindset of what 'suits' the model. And sometimes the environment would have an effect on the model, so it could give ideas to how to convert the model. EG; Acid swamp base may = Trooper is corroded/ melted/ burnt. Jungle base may = camo on trooper with added leaf/net cloak.
Other tips; Dry fit everything before gluing.
Take a look around, there's tons of conversions on Heresy. Perhaps look at the previous conversion contests as they'll be full of converts.
Have a 'Bits' box and destructo tools, I mean Dremel, saw, vice, drill vice, knife, clippers, sandpaper.
Do designs/drawings if'll help before hacking away at things.
Keeping things simple is never a bad idea. A simple gun swap can be considered a conversion and can make all the difference. Doing too much sometimes just confuses people as to what they are seeing.
Don't expect you projetct to be finished in one weekend. Some conversions can take over a year, and that's not including painting afterwards.
And don't forget to take lots of pics and post them up in a thread!
Good luck sky converter!
Plasticard you can get from places like Bits&Kits. You're in UK right? You might have a Modelzone shop near you, they might have some. Otherwise recycle packaging is always a good option (although it's not the same as true plasicard).
Greenstuff you can get online. Modelzone will have Milliput. But if you're a beginner converter and perhaps sculptor, maybe go for milliput as it's good for gap filling, it's cheaper and larger quanitity than GS.
Things to convert:
Try to begin with just altering your existing models. Use old ones as experiments. And start getting into pinning every joint on new models as you build them. That'll get you into practice for posing them in dramatic postions later.
Common areas to convert are things like; Heads, Weapons, Poses, then adding stuff. More advanced is when you start to remove stuff, hacking and merging things. This is when the milliput comes in handy. More advance than that starts to involve fabricating around parts, trims, details, some thought upon layout/design.
There's loads more that could be added, but I fear I may waffle into 'become one with the minature sky converter'. Woops already done it, sorry.
Bases are a good place to start - Try to add to the overall model without actually adding to the model itself is tricky. But it'll get you into the mindset of what 'suits' the model. And sometimes the environment would have an effect on the model, so it could give ideas to how to convert the model. EG; Acid swamp base may = Trooper is corroded/ melted/ burnt. Jungle base may = camo on trooper with added leaf/net cloak.
Other tips; Dry fit everything before gluing.
Take a look around, there's tons of conversions on Heresy. Perhaps look at the previous conversion contests as they'll be full of converts.
Have a 'Bits' box and destructo tools, I mean Dremel, saw, vice, drill vice, knife, clippers, sandpaper.
Do designs/drawings if'll help before hacking away at things.
Keeping things simple is never a bad idea. A simple gun swap can be considered a conversion and can make all the difference. Doing too much sometimes just confuses people as to what they are seeing.
Don't expect you projetct to be finished in one weekend. Some conversions can take over a year, and that's not including painting afterwards.
And don't forget to take lots of pics and post them up in a thread!
Good luck sky converter!
Joined
·
8,570 Posts
Some musings that come to mind:
Most people find plastic easier to convert than metal as it:
(1) can usually be cut with a knife rather than a saw which aids precision
(2) is lighter so does not change the centre of balance of the model so much if you do a dramatic pose.
Build you conversion up in small pieces with time for joins to dry &c. rather than trying to do the whole thing: this is especially true if you are green-stuffing.
Tidy your desk frequently so you do not lose the small piece you were going to add amongst the pieces you have removed.
Put effort into preparing the model (removing flash &c.); if the model looks tidy then slight errors in the conversion will not make it look messy, whereas an untidy model will emphasise imperfections in the conversion.
Keep all the bits that you have not used from kits somewhere easily accessible, and go through them occasionally without any specific conversion in mind just to see what combinations inspire you.
Most people find plastic easier to convert than metal as it:
(1) can usually be cut with a knife rather than a saw which aids precision
(2) is lighter so does not change the centre of balance of the model so much if you do a dramatic pose.
Build you conversion up in small pieces with time for joins to dry &c. rather than trying to do the whole thing: this is especially true if you are green-stuffing.
Tidy your desk frequently so you do not lose the small piece you were going to add amongst the pieces you have removed.
Put effort into preparing the model (removing flash &c.); if the model looks tidy then slight errors in the conversion will not make it look messy, whereas an untidy model will emphasise imperfections in the conversion.
Keep all the bits that you have not used from kits somewhere easily accessible, and go through them occasionally without any specific conversion in mind just to see what combinations inspire you.
Joined
·
18 Posts
ive only just started 40k a few days ago and ive started using greenstuff myself to model extra sandbags and armour pads for my imperial guard. could do with some help making my guard more unusual.
Joined
·
881 Posts
little ideas for Greenstuff (for IG or whoever really):
-Face. You could add scars, facial hair, head wear of sorts (hat, beannie, etc), maybe try some cyborb/robotic parts (lens for eye with pipe coming out).
-Give 'em extra ammo, pockets, pouches, kits, knifes, arm bands, rank markings
-Armor - Add weathering effects, holes, dents etc. Add extra armor, or extra detail like rivets, trims, spikes. If an area already has detail, you could sand it smooth so you got something clean to work with. Perhaps coat it in chainmail or as it's IG, perhaps camo netting.
-perhaps make some muscle men and give 'em more muscle.
-perhaps heavily wound some, pulling a great big spike out from their chest or something.
- perhaps get some banners/flags going.
-paint names on their helmets or somewhere - that'll make them individual.
-Face. You could add scars, facial hair, head wear of sorts (hat, beannie, etc), maybe try some cyborb/robotic parts (lens for eye with pipe coming out).
-Give 'em extra ammo, pockets, pouches, kits, knifes, arm bands, rank markings
-Armor - Add weathering effects, holes, dents etc. Add extra armor, or extra detail like rivets, trims, spikes. If an area already has detail, you could sand it smooth so you got something clean to work with. Perhaps coat it in chainmail or as it's IG, perhaps camo netting.
-perhaps make some muscle men and give 'em more muscle.
-perhaps heavily wound some, pulling a great big spike out from their chest or something.
- perhaps get some banners/flags going.
-paint names on their helmets or somewhere - that'll make them individual.
Joined
·
4,376 Posts
It is usually best to start your own thread instead hijacking someone elses. This way people can give you advice on converting IG.
About the only other thing I would add would be once you start would be to post clear pictures of what you are doing or planning on doing and asking lots of questions. Blurry pictures are not going to help. There are many experienced converters here that have given their souls to the great minature sky converter'.
So good luck and look forward to seeing some of your projects.
Joined
·
225 Posts
One of the other handy stuff you can have arround is ...... something i dunno the english word or brand...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-Tack
^ that stuff, basically, its a kind of stuff that looks and handle alot of green stuff, however, it doesn´t dry out (or atleast, dry out for a few months)
Very useful to dryfit, testfit, or even mix tru your greenstuff.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-Tack
^ that stuff, basically, its a kind of stuff that looks and handle alot of green stuff, however, it doesn´t dry out (or atleast, dry out for a few months)
Very useful to dryfit, testfit, or even mix tru your greenstuff.
Joined
·
51 Posts
as most have said you can get plasticard from any good model shop and it's usually quite cheap.
that said, don't be afraid to trawl the car boot sales/cahrity shops/pound shops for stuff. i've done some pretty cool conversions and scratch builds with stuff i bought from pond shops.
if you're looking for green stuff on the net you want to search for "kneadatite" it's green stuffs real name. you can buy it in a blister pack from from any games workshop store but personally i wouldn't recomend it. it works out at about £6 for 10 inch's from a gw store. i did an internet search and found a place that sold me a 39 inch strip in a sealable plastic container for £10.
one tip i have found invaluable with working green stuff. DON'T USE WATER TO KEEP YOUR SCULPTING TOOL WET!!! it sounds odd i know but water can sometimes turn green stuff to mush and if you're working on fine detail it can suck a drop of water of your tool and completely obscure the detail and mess up your depth perception.
instead, i keep the tool ever so slightly oiled by wiping it accross my forehead. sounds a little gross i know but the thin layer of moisture it lifts from your skin is enough to stop the green stuff sticking and it won't mess up your detail.
if you need any other tips you can P.M. me. i'm always glad to help.
if you wanna see some of the stuff i've sculpted take a look at my site
www.theewingworkshop.com
go to the gallery and scrol down to miniatures and take a look
remember, if you need help, ask
vyv
that said, don't be afraid to trawl the car boot sales/cahrity shops/pound shops for stuff. i've done some pretty cool conversions and scratch builds with stuff i bought from pond shops.
if you're looking for green stuff on the net you want to search for "kneadatite" it's green stuffs real name. you can buy it in a blister pack from from any games workshop store but personally i wouldn't recomend it. it works out at about £6 for 10 inch's from a gw store. i did an internet search and found a place that sold me a 39 inch strip in a sealable plastic container for £10.
one tip i have found invaluable with working green stuff. DON'T USE WATER TO KEEP YOUR SCULPTING TOOL WET!!! it sounds odd i know but water can sometimes turn green stuff to mush and if you're working on fine detail it can suck a drop of water of your tool and completely obscure the detail and mess up your depth perception.
instead, i keep the tool ever so slightly oiled by wiping it accross my forehead. sounds a little gross i know but the thin layer of moisture it lifts from your skin is enough to stop the green stuff sticking and it won't mess up your detail.
if you need any other tips you can P.M. me. i'm always glad to help.
if you wanna see some of the stuff i've sculpted take a look at my site
www.theewingworkshop.com
go to the gallery and scrol down to miniatures and take a look
remember, if you need help, ask
vyv
Joined
·
4,634 Posts
The blue-tack and dry fitting tips are great advice. I've spent many a night just cutting up old bits and blue tacking them together to see what i can make.
Also, once you have an idea for what you want to do, go google searching for a bit. Chances are that someone has done something similar before and you'll be able to learn from what they have done and how they did it.
Also, once you have an idea for what you want to do, go google searching for a bit. Chances are that someone has done something similar before and you'll be able to learn from what they have done and how they did it.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
