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149 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have written this tutorial quite some time ago, and as I saw a request for a tutorial on Looting vehicles (even if the request was on Dark Eldar vehicles), I decided to share this one with you guys.

The "beauty" of this tutorial is that you can omit a couple of steps before the end (like the "slapping on of some plates", and change it into a loyalist or Chaos WhirlWind should you choose to do so; this WhirlWind will look cool in any case :grin:

So, I have had half of this MKI Rhino sitting in my bitzbox for ages, and I decided it was time to start doing something with it :

This is the story of how it went...

As you can see the main parts were already assembled and painted pretty yuckily. Not my bad, it came as an extra with a WarBoss I won on Ebay over a year ago.
The trakks were attached pretty quicly and easily to the half of the hull :

Now my first idea was to change this MKI machine into an MKII contraption.
To do this, I started out by modernising the armour platings. So I took some plasticard and drew and cut out the contours of the side of a MKI Rhino trakk and immediately marked the details of the armour plates I wanted on there :

When I held this first plasticard sheet to the side of my Rhino, it became clear I’d have to do some more work on the Rhino itself before I’d start gluing my plasticard on there. The sides were just too irregular with detailing (doors, vents and the likes) to be able to glue something out there in a neat, good looking manner. So out came the exacto-knife, and a lot of near-finger bleeds later, this is what my trakks-sides looked like :

Now I was ready to cut the plasticard sheet into pieces following the lines I had marked there before and glue those, with the exception of the door in the middle, into place. Before doing this however, I ‘peeled’ off the edges of the plates, much like you’d peel a tater to round ‘em off. The door I glued in there comes, I think, from the Leman Russ sprues. I also added a first square to the front- and rearmost protuberance of the trakks

The process of adding armour plates was then repeated on the other trakk-side of the Rhino, only I drew out different platings and used another door so it wouldn’t all be too symmetrical :

Next I continued to plate up the trakks, but now on the top. I simply used rectangular pieces of plasticard for those, taking care that everything fitted nice and snugly into place

Having learnt from the plating-up of the sides of the Trakks, I decided this would be a good time to rid the MKI Rhino of it’s front doors, which are too irregular to be able to be covered decently by plasticard. In stead of evening everything out with an exacto, I decided I would cut these doors out, mainly because they are too good bitz to throw away (they make for nice shields for Ard Boys for example)

Since I started to work on the main hull, I decided to continue there. A quick glance at the Beakie Codex made it clear that the rear of the hull shouldn’t follow the lines of the trakks, but should be bulked out. The first step in doing this was to extend the roof with a piece of plasticard as you can see here

This was done by first cutting out the plasticard to a piece that would fit nicely into the space between the trakks and that would match up with the existing part of the hull. A smaller piece of plasticard was then glued under this one and on the inside of the hull, thus connecting the two with a strong bond.
Then I added the sides of the rear part of the hull, again, simply by cutting some plasticard to the desired shape & size

A last piece of rectangular plasticard closed the rear-section

And this was then finished by glueing a double door onto that last piece of plasticard

Now, in order to make the trakks more interesting, and making them look more like MKII trakks, I decided to give them some extra detailing, so I glued a kind of L-shaped piece of plasticard to the sides, which stops just where the exhausts will come in a later stage.

And then 2 pieces of rectangular plasticard were added around the tips

I know that not all of this fits for the full 100%, but I will take care of that later on with some GreenStuff.

Finally, I closed the structure on the inside of the trakks as can be seen here. I also added reinforcements here and there by slapping on some rectangular pieces of plasticard

Due to my hands getting slightly sore and cramped from all that cutting of plasticard, I decided to have a rummage through my bitsboxes… out came 2 headlights and some Chaos Beakie spikes for up front.

Now I had the main structure of the MKII Rhino covered, except for the front plating and the exhausts. I decided to have a go at the exhausts first.
For this, I cut out, per exhaust, two pieces of rectangular plasticard, one a couple of inches smaller than the other on the bottom and sides. Into these pieces, I cut out rectangular bits, which match each-other. This looks something like this :

Then, when you glue the two on to each-other, you might already see what I am getting at :

Now it was time to fill up the gaps between the smaller and the larger bit of card with greenstuff so that you get a nice smooth transition between the two pieces.

Next I needed some really thin plasticard to finish off the exhausts, but apparently, I didn’t have any left anymore. In stead of running to the store, I decided to use cardboard (loads cheaper and for a job like this ‘un, more easy to manipulate, bend,…). Out of the cardboard, I cut small pieces fit to cover up the main part of the exhausts, except for the parts with the rectangular holes. Using PVA glue, I attached them to the exhausts. And presto, 4 exhausts, drying away :

Since I used PVA glue for the cardboard, I decided to let those dry thoroughly, and concentrate on my vehicle a bit more.

Now I know I said I was turning this into an MKII Rhino, but actually it’ll be an MKII Rhino hull, with some added weaponry. This is the first step into not making it a Rhino anymore :

I started to make a hatchback to fit onto my hull. For this, I started out with the bit that comes on the Rhino sprues, but is meant to be for the RazorBack roof. I cut it in two, right behind the hole where the RazorBacks’ weapons are mounted. I positioned the vent in an angle behind the hole, and used plasticard to create the hatchbacks’ sides and rear

Next, I used thinner plasticard to add structure (dags, beams,…) to the hatchback

In order to make for a good fit, I had to remove the 2 hatches in the roof of the Rhino. I did the same as for the front doors, ensuring I could re-use the hatches for other projects, and this is what the hatchback looks like when mounted on the vehicle :

At this stage I also whipped out my Dremel in order to grind away the Aquila on the metal door.
With all the work on the hatchback, my exhausts had dried up, and I was able to glue them in place. I used greenstuff to smooth out their tops, and while this was drying I pressed in the tubes (cut from bits on the 'umies Tank Accessory Sprue) protruding from the exhausts.

This is starting to look good, even though I say it myself.

Now that the hatchback was glued solidly into place, I was able to measure up the plasticard sheet that’d cover the rest of my roof, and select a hatch that would fit on there.

And with the roof into place, I could cut out the front panel, making two portholes behind which I attached a piece of mesh.

Next I glued a strip of plasticard, again with two holes, across the portholes

And to break up that great white surface, I cut myself some teef. Again, I smoothened out their edges by peeling them with an exacto-knife.

And finally, a strip of cardboard (again, no thin plasticard available) was glued over the base of the teef ‘to keep them in place’

To complete the image of a big mouth (the dags on the hatchback and the teef on the front panel) I added two larger teef to the front of the trakks

Finalising my windows up front, I added two cardboard windowframes

Now the doors in the rear need some finishing details. Hence I took one of my old paintbrush-protector-tubes and cut that into 12 equal pieces, which I glued to the sides of the doors in order to make the hinges

Having finished the main works on the vehicles’ main body, I decided the time had come to start a-workin’ on the commander. Nothing special to mention here; I just cut a Shoota-arm at the wrist to reposition the hand so it’d rest on the hull, a Fantasy Orc head and a wee bit of GreenStuff to close the gap under the Shoota arm.

Once the commander finished, it was time to start making the main weapon of my vehicle. So first thing, I took 3 Havoc Launcher front parts, and cut away one empty corner-tube on two of those. Then I cut out some plasticard so that when the Havoc-bits were glued to it, they’d cover the whole piece.

Then I took another bit of the Rhino sprues onto which the Razorback weapons are mounted, and cut off the vents. Once these were separated, I cut it to the same dimensions as my 3 Havoc-front-parts. These two bits were then glued to either side of a Plasticard rectangle placing a rectangular piece of Plasticard up straight in between them.

And then this structure was closed with 5 more rectangles

And presto… now I have a WhirlWind missile-launcher
Since I needed the round RazorBack bit to continue my works on the missile-launcher, I started adding details to the vehicle. First off, I made 2 Speed Freek glyphs to go under the big teef

And 4 strips of cardboard attached the hinges to the rear doors

Using cardboard, I also added metal beams to the missile launcher, as well as 2 more vents, one on each side.

Using an age-old technique, handed over from Mek to Mek, I took some GreenStuff sausages and started slicing off rivets. Here’s the result on the vehicle

And on the missile-launcher

Having finally found someone willing to trade a round RazorBack bit, I started working on the hydraulics supporting the missile launcher. For this, I took a brush-protector-tube, some earplug-headphone wire and a paperclip.

I cut 2 small bits of each of these three components, shoved the paperclip into the wire and shoved the wire into the tube, glueing it all together. Then I fitted the broadest part into the two holes of the RazorBack bit.

And then I simply glued the missile launcher on top of this contraption

And this is what it looks like when mounted onto my hatchback :

Almost finished now… all that was left from what I wanted to add were some wires going from the hull into the hatchback. For this, I used some white wire they used for scanning my head inna sleeping-deprivation-experiment and a coiled metal bracelet

I shoved the 3 pieces of wire into the coiled bracelet and then stretched out the coil, bended and glued these 3 pieces into place.

As we all know, a nice layer of primer really pulls a model together :

And that’s all folks; this was the story of how to turn an MKI Rhino into an up-to-date MKII WhirlWind using plasticard, cardboard, some bits and a smattering of GreenStuff

I hope you enjoyed it!

149 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the positive feedbacks (and +reps):biggrin:

Of course, I also painted the WhirlWind, but I passed the maximum amount of attachable piccies in my tutorial:scratchhead:
So here are the painted pictures :

And I hope I might see another members' version of this here hatchback...
If that's the case, this tutorial will not have been written in vain.
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