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Febris Militarius
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been away from the hobby for roughly 3-4 years. I have parter with the vast majority of my models as they were to numerous to ship 15000+ Km. Now that I am settled and Uni is in full swing I found a GW and wondered in, a lot has changed in the time I was gone. So after two weeks of internal strife I have jumped back into the hobby.

Rather than stress about the playing, rules, and finding new people to game with I decided to paint. I used to rush a model and paint shit models so I could play them. So now I want to get better at painting. To jump in I figured I would try some of the techniques I was never good at. So my first batch is going to be the Space Marine Heroes. Starting with the chaplain.

Primes black I took the time to get rid of mold lines as best I could and get the abbadon black where the spray didn't cover before trying a 1:1 mix of Dawnstone & Adminstratum Grey as primary highlights.

First attempt at painting in a few years be gentle...:eek:k:
chap back.jpg chaplain arm.jpg
Chaplain's body with primary highlights, needs to be cleaned up.
chap arm post.jpg View attachment 959976666

All feedback is appreciated!
-Medic
 

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Febris Militarius
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919 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks fine so far mate, what's the next step for highlights?
Plan is a 2:1 admin grey and dawn stone to a final pure admin grey.
Did the soft armor as lead belcher with a ulin black wash. Tried to smooth out the thick highlight spots as well. Will make a run fir gold and bone colored paints to tackle head and trim tomorrow.
 

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Plan is a 2:1 admin grey and dawn stone to a final pure admin grey.
Rule of three is a good one to use for painting! I like the agrax earthshade to dull the gold and bone, and then drybrush the original colour over the top. Try it and see what you think!
 

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Febris Militarius
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919 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Chaplain Base: gold and purity seal

As the title says, I have placed the base to the gold portions of the chaplain, and parchment/purity seals. The initial highlights have been touched up and the backpack has been highlighted as well. Soft armour on the arms, bolt pistol have been done as well.
chap.jpg chappy.jpg
Next steps will be to do second highlights of the armour, and wash the seals and parchment.
With any luck I will base all of the bone surfaces as well tonight.

feedback welcome
 

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Your progress is looking good! I'd perhaps consider doing a bone drybrush over the parchment and taking your black back and very slowly narrowing the highlights using the tip of the brush, which may make things pop a little more.

Overall good progress though!
 

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Febris Militarius
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919 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Your progress is looking good! I'd perhaps consider doing a bone drybrush over the parchment and taking your black back and very slowly narrowing the highlights using the tip of the brush, which may make things pop a little more.

Overall good progress though!
Cheers, I bit the bullet and bought a decent paint brush and totally agree. Hopefully getting to do my bone and remaining gold washes tonight and then look to the remaining Armour highlights and cleaning the thick lines up.
 

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I bit the bullet and bought a decent paint brush and totally agree
Funny you should say that, after doing all my skitarii and getting increasingly frustrated with the apparent degredation in my skills, I actually had a critical look at my brushes and discovered that not one of them had a useable point, and several were looking pretty splayed (oops, stippling wrecks them...). Amazing the difference that it makes!
 

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Febris Militarius
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919 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
chap.jpg shoulder.jpg
All base colors done, applying the washes to bone now and struggling to highlight the armour.

Trying to decide what chapter these should be, thinking of going full Vanilla and painting Ultramarines.
 

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Agreed, seeing it close up confirms that the model is all kinds of awesome. I think you are progressing very well.
 

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Febris Militarius
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Agreed, seeing it close up confirms that the model is all kinds of awesome. I think you are progressing very well.
That is turning into a lovely looking model. Can't wait to see it finished. Keep it up.
Thank you for the kind words, keeps the motivation high!

Bones and gold have been washed with the parchment with layered and highlights applied, need to work up the courage to put writing on the parchment.

chap wash.jpg

I do believe that I have come to an understanding of what I want chapter wise, and for a theme of my force. I wish to make a strike force of Ultramarines (I know bitch move...) but theme them as the strike force arriving with the Dark Angels to purge Fenris. Seems like a good way to motivate me and allow me to use multiple company designs.
 

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need to work up the courage to put writing on the parchment.
I use a .05 mm fine tip pen personally. Currently using a 'Copic' brand one.

but theme them as the strike force arriving with the Dark Angels to purge Fenris.
Nice idea! Those filthy mutants need purging anyway... moving to Baal next?
 

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Febris Militarius
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I use a .05 mm fine tip pen personally. Currently using a 'Copic' brand one.
Idea stolen! Thank you
Nice idea! Those filthy mutants need purging anyway... moving to Baal next?
I read the fluff for this and was rather sad, I used to have a full Battle company of Disciples of Caliban... could have eradicated space puppies for the Lion.

Either way, I found a fun project in this and it will keep me sane. Below is the chaplain so far.
Bolter has been painted red (base). The Purity seals have been highlighted and I found one I had missed (D'oh!)
The second edge highlight went on and I have tried to clean up the thick lines, a better smaller brush may be required. Also tackled my first smurf plus surface for the chapter seal on the left shoulder. 20160511_062502.jpg 20160511_062450.jpg

Cheers
 

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Febris Militarius
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919 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Chaplain Azygous of the 6th Company

Chaplain update time...
I have glued the bloke together as I have mostly detail work done, I am pleased with how the skull helm bone and shoulder/knee skulls came out. Karak bone base, with a moderate wash of agrax earthshade then raised area painted with ushabdi bone and highlighted with screaming skull. Avoided the recesses.

chap.jpg
Placed my first ever transfer and hated it. Not a fun process, but alas such is life I suppose. Not displeased with the Ultra blue I came up with. Liked a tute I saw for a libby and went with that as my Blue. Caldor Sky base, then recess shade with drakenhof night shade wash. Highlight with teclis blue, final highlight of lotherin blue needed to finish. Need to go slower and layer up in the future got rushy and didn't think my paint enough.
chap wash.jpg'.jpg
Put the shattered aquilla as a stone, and plan to highlight with admin grey after a wash of sepia, then bicarb snow to the majority.

Please fire off some criticism. Ideas for the eyes are greatly appreciated, feeling red, might try a subtle glow as well.
 

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Starting to look great! The one criticism I have is on the highlight lines on the back of his leg. At places they are a bit wide and don't continue in a smooth way.

I put the parts I'm referring to in red circles here:


Touching up these with the black will make a big difference I expect. :)

On glowing eyes here are some ideas!

A quick intro with an example:
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.nl/2011/05/quick-study-in-glowing-eyes-effect.html

More expansive tutorial on OSL in general by the same guy:
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.nl/2011/01/painting-glowing-powerfist.html

and a great tutorial specific on glowing eye lenses:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1288-glowing-eyes-by-cyril

For the osl on my marines I use a reverse of the last tutorial. Painting the glow colour around the eyes and blending/feathering down into the armour colour.

Have fun! :good:
 

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The black and blue areas look great, I think I'd be more sold on the bone if it wasn't for the contrast over his forehead. That could stand a drybrush of Ushabti I think, to just bring it closer to the face and make it look a bit less like a concave area.

My method for transfers is (when I use them) to paint up the base, then gloss varnish it. Have a drop of detergent in a saucer of water to soak the transfer, cut as much of the clear transfer paper away as possible, once soaked, place it on the mini with a brush. Then wait for it to dry on in the correct position. Paint over the transfer to give the weathered appeareance and address any seams around the edges, then matte varnish the whole model to get rid of the gloss.

For the eyes, red is a great colour to go with skulls! I suggest mephiston red with a patch of orange on the raised lenses (trollslayer orange should do) then a prick of yellow to indicate pupils. Wash the lot with black or purple, then gloss varnish it.
 

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Febris Militarius
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919 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Starting to look great! The one criticism I have is on the highlight lines on the back of his leg. At places they are a bit wide and don't continue in a smooth way.

Touching up these with the black will make a big difference I expect. :)
Thank for this, I need to still do the knee, thanks for the eye ideas
The black and blue areas look great, I think I'd be more sold on the bone if it wasn't for the contrast over his forehead. That could stand a drybrush of Ushabti I think, to just bring it closer to the face and make it look a bit less like a concave area.
I gave it a dry brush seems to have really helped IMO thanks!

Rather proud of how the stone aquilla came out, I slapped him up onto the base think it looks alright, gonna do the skull up for practice and then snow cause I have never done snow bases, and I think it would look cool against the ultra blue.
chap head.jpg
Feel alright about the gold, think better highlighting would be better. I am pleased with purity seal wax portions though a touch of orange might really make it better. Best scroll work I have ever come up with. Eyes need to be done but I am deciding what/how to do them.
chap shoulder.jpg chap.jpg
chapp.jpg
Thanks for the feedback, been enjoying painting this bad boy.
Given that he has come along nicely I started putting primary colors on my libby. Thinking of taking off the skull on thee talbord front so his rank is codicer. Want him to be an attached librarian not of the 6th company.
libby.jpg
Lastly any tips for painting the shoulder trim orange ofthe 6th company?
Cheers!
 

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Critique for da CriticGod
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The overall effect of the chaplain is successful I think. Solid colors and nice contrasts. I don't recall what your goal is, table top quality and done or continually learning and getting better. For tabletop quality you're right on. To improve, some of the details need to be handled differently.

I wouldn't recommend painting on the sprue. Invariably, this means that mold lines get missed and then there are the attachment points which don't have paint or primer on them once removed. I always paint marines in parts: head+chest+legs+base, left arm+weapon, right arm+weapon, backpack. This allows me to test fit everything before painting it, adjust the shoulder pads, line up weapons and hands, balance over the base. And I can clean up all the flash and mold lines.

When it comes to highlighting, it looks like you could also stand to thin your paints out more. This would have helped quite a bit on the edge highlights on the black parts of the armor. Right now they're too wide as well as rough/uneven.

...
Lastly any tips for painting the shoulder trim orange ofthe 6th company?
Cheers!
When working over a black base coat, the most important thing to remember is to build up layers of color to your highlights. With a white base coat hot ate essentially starting with the highlights and shading down. With a black base coat you are starting with the shadows and building up to the highlights. It's also worth considering that most miniature paints are translucent and not totally opaque.

When painting the orange trim over a black base coat you can do a few things. Paint a layer or two of white over the black and then paint the orange. Or you can layer up thin coats of brown, dark red, light red, and then orange. I prefer the second method and have used it extensively on my khornate armies. You can also do some combination as well.
 

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Febris Militarius
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919 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I wouldn't recommend painting on the sprue. Invariably, this means that mold lines get missed and then there are the attachment points which don't have paint or primer on them once removed. I always paint marines in parts: head+chest+legs+base, left arm+weapon, right arm+weapon, backpack. This allows me to test fit everything before painting it, adjust the shoulder pads, line up weapons and hands, balance over the base. And I can clean up all the flash and mold lines.

When it comes to highlighting, it looks like you could also stand to thin your paints out more. This would have helped quite a bit on the edge highlights on the black parts of the armor. Right now they're too wide as well as rough/uneven.
Thanks for this, definitely going for it on the libby this way.

When working over a black base coat, the most important thing to remember is to build up layers of color to your highlights. With a white base coat hot ate essentially starting with the highlights and shading down. With a black base coat you are starting with the shadows and building up to the highlights. It's also worth considering that most miniature paints are translucent and not totally opaque.

When painting the orange trim over a black base coat you can do a few things. Paint a layer or two of white over the black and then paint the orange. Or you can layer up thin coats of brown, dark red, light red, and then orange. I prefer the second method and have used it extensively on my khornate armies. You can also do some combination as well.
Thank you! over all I just wanted to paint and paint better than I did before, so actually listening to the advise I get. I suppose table top was never in my skill previous so if I can get there I am doing better. Above table top maybe by the time I finish school.
 
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