Warhammer 40k Forum and Wargaming Forums banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. I've been posting in Painting & Modeling for some time now and since every post of mine is related to the same army I thought it's worth a project log.

My current 750 pts army is: 2x 5 Kabalites with a Blaster, 3 Trueborn with two lances, Archon with an Agonizer and grenades, 4 Incubi as his "retinue", two converted Venoms with cannon upgrades, a Ravager and a Raider. I've just finished putting them together today and now I'm going to spend the summer painting them (yeah I take my time when painting). I've done some conversions that I like and I magnetised everything that needed magnetizing so I'll add some words about that in the next post.

Here goes a group shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I've decided to make my Trueborns differ from Kabalites in 3 ways:
- all Kabalites wear helmets and all Trueborn do not, since they're proud of their legacy;
- I'll paint some minor decorations on their shoulder pads, similar to what you can see in the Codex;
- I've given them either trophy thingies (that were originally intended for the Sybarite in the warriors' box) or the banner. The most useless person in the group (the one without the lance) wears a banner just to do something.

It's the "Dracon" of my Trueborns on the pic below. I've tried to make her pose dynamic and interesting (to make some additional difference) but ultimately I failed and now it's pretty obvious she just has sore bottom and she definitely tries to scratch it. The face says it all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Now, to magnetizing. I've decided to magnetize arms of those warriors who have weapon choices available (because I'm slow enough with painting as it is; having to repaint the whole figure just to swap dark lance for the splinter cannon, I would just die of old age before I finish). In the pics below you can see a warrior with a blaster, a trueborn with a dark lance and an archon with an agonizer (from the warriors' kit; I like Wyches' one more but unfortunately I don't have Wyches available) and a pistol. On the next pic are the same guys but disassembled for better understanding.

The magnets. You can freely use 2mm x 1mm discs to magnetize both arms and feet (later about that) of the Dark Eldar. They seem to have too thin limbs but believe me - 2mm is small enough to fit nicely in the shoulder of the arm or into the foot, and not break anything. 1mm thickness of the disc is okay for the feet too, you don't have to drill it through.

The drillling. The only things you really need to drill even the metallic figure are the drills (metal rods with threading) themselves - I use 1mm drill to "mark" the place for the larger drill, an then 2mm drill to make a hole for the magnet. Try to center the marker hole properly, since otherwise your magnetized figure might look ugly - that's what I heard, at least. You don't actually need a pin vice or a hobby drill to use the drills - fingers' strength is enough to drill even through the metal (as I did with my archon), but it does take some time though. :) And the plastic can be drilled with fingers easily.

Still, the electrical drill helps a lot though if you need to make a lot of holes (and you gonna need 4 of them for a warrior with a special gun, about 7 for the Raider and 9 for the Ravager - I'll talk about that later). I bought one in my local radio shop.

The glueing. Here goes a list of all the tricks I used to make my life easier. Use super-glue to glue the magnets. First do mini with both hands, and then match the magnets for the other bodies/hands with the first set, so you could easily swap guns if you want to (in the pics below there's my Archon with a dark lance and with the blaster, I was just toying with the capabilities that magnets give you). Pick a pair of magnets, match their sides, and mark the ones that you want on the outside (magnetizing to each other) with a marker. Then get a drill (or any other metal rod of 1-2mm thickness), and put the magnet on drill's flat end, marked side down. Now put some glue into the hole. Now place a magnet there, and try to remove the drill. Use a toothpick to make the magnet stay in the hole. Watch carefully for the magnet to stay the marked side up. Use a piece of thick paper to remove the glue leftovers. While you do that, apply some pressure on the paper, it won't glue to the magnet if you don't stop moving the paper but it will smooth it's position down. First magnetize the weapon hand, then the left hand. It takes about an hour to make sure the super-glue sticks to magnets good enough so you can test your work (otherwise the magnets will pull out of their holes and you'll have to start over). When it's ready, glue the weapon hand and the left hand together - you not gonna need them separately anyway. There you go, now repeat that several times. :)

If you accidentally drill the hole too large or too deep don't worry and just use GS to fill the empty space.

Magnets are pretty strong so they work if you make slight errors in positioning or depth, so don't worry much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I also used magnets to make my Raider crew stick to the Raider. I'd like to remove them when the Raider is shot down (or empty), but they fall off after a slightest knock if just "put on" the Raider. So I added 1 magnet to 1 feet of each of the crew (except the gunman who holds his gun tight enough), and I drilled the Raider's sides to put magnets there. Here go the pics. The one with the green stuff is where my drill went awry.

My best work is the magnet below the grill for the captain. I decided not to drill the grill but to do magic instead. I got a larger magnet (3mm x 1.5mm) and I put it below the grill. I then used other magnets to pull it to the grill from below, then I added a drop of super-glue and voila! - my captain stays in place with no visible magnet on the floor below. The force is enough to keep him (and other crew mates) on the floor even when you turn the Raider upside down or shake it. And the snap when you put a guy near his place makes one's soul cheer with joy :)

When deciding, where to put a magnet on a ship's side, place the crew member where it belongs, and try to press his foot (the one you're going to magnetize) to the surface - that's what the magnet will do once in place. You need to find a position where this kind of pressure will not make changes in the guy's pose (so he/she still holds the side of a ship with a hand or the hook, for instance). Once you're set - drill. :)

I've also magnetized Ravager's gunners but that's too boring to tell about.

Cheers, hope you like it. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,083 Posts
your DE are coming out nicely man. I can not wait to see more work from you. (yes i love my DE)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
WIP. I'm not dead yet! :) It just takes tons of time and I only got air brush this autumn. And for some reason I'm down from 20 minutes per layer per figure to 30 minutes. And I still don't know why the hell does it take that much time. Guys say they are at about 5 minutes per layer. I'm frustrated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
More WIP. Incubi + Archon. No more reddish-orange layers for this army, yay! :) Gonna do blacks and metallics and eyes from now on, the end is nigh :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Noone expects the Drukhaki Inquisition, especially SIX years later yet guess what! Unfortunately the final feeling of finally-this-unit-is-over relief is not nearly enough to compensate for 6 years of keeping the hobby light from going out completely, yet... well, here they go. I even made a nice Klaivex which I really like.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Sooo I'm now painting my veeery old venom conversion (worth mentioning that it was made based on an art from DE codex before GW first released an official Venom model). And I have some problems with it. How do I paint straight lines near the armor slits? I'm attaching a second pic as an example of what I'm looking for. Is it just a steady hand? Do I use a masking tape? How come those extreme highlights lines look so bright yet appear to be painted with a single move of hand? I'm totally lost, please halp.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,559 Posts
How come those extreme highlights lines look so bright yet appear to be painted with a single move of hand?
As Brother Dextus says, you want to make sure your paint is thin enough to flow well. I'd also apply the highlight with the edge of the brush rather than the tip: bring the brush in angled slightly and with the tip over the groove then run the brush along the line in a smooth movement; because the same area of brush touches the outside angle of the edge that way even if the brush moves back and forth along it's length, it doesn't matter if your hand doesn't move in a perfectly straight line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for your advice guys! Highlighting with the edge did not work well for me since there's no place to put the rest of the brush when I paint the recess in the armor. But I've cheated by painting less carefully and then restoring the recess with a 0.03 liner. Venom armor plates are now complete and I'm going for metallics:
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top