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Unhinged Hobo
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I highly recomend Nitro Mors for metal modles. This stuff eats anything with a high oil ratio. It can deal with green stuff, glues, paints, hair, skin...just make sure that you remove any plastic components before dunking them as they'll become puddles. Also be careful where you dispose of it, if there isn't a lot of running water it will have a field day with plastic drainage pipes. i used a plastic nail brush to scrub the models afterwards and forgot to take it out of the diluted milimeter thick puddle that the models now sat in, i came back that evening and it looked like i'd left it cooking on a grill.
 

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Rattlehead
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6,741 Posts
Does this Dettol method get the primer off as well? I just bought a SM Commander and used a cheap garage-bought primer and now he's all bumpy and covered in splodges.

Midnight

EDIT: Yes it does, but I must emphasise that you rub the model THOROUGHLY when it gets taken out of the dettol. He looks much worse now because I forgot to do that... the paint mixed together and then went all sticky and he is now a bit Nurgly in texture and look.
 

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On metal mini's I use a pine disinfectant soak and remove the paint with a tooth brush and/or toothpicks/Needles (watch your damn fingers).

I have not stripped any plastics yet. Has anyone got any advice on this?
 

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Señor Member
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563 Posts
If anyone lives in Australia, Simple Green can be found in Bunnings.
 

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I found out years ago that Loctite Superglue Remover is perfect at stripping paint from metal miniatures.

I had an old Calgar model I had aquired from a friend (he'd made a right botch job of painting it) so I broke it apart and as I used the superglue remover on his joints, it bubbled and stripped the paint off immediately without any hesitation.
I 'painted' the remover all over and it ended up looking brand new.

It comes in a little pot that has a brush inside the lid (similar to a nail varnish lid).
 

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My 2c.
I found Nail polish remover to be very effective. I used it on some old plastic space marines to repaint as BTs (and paint them much better :D). I just used an old paintbrush and a toothbrush.

The only thing is to make sure its Acetone free, or it will melt the plastic.
 

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Any good method of stripping that also can help break up glue? Also is there a big difference between the glue GW sells and testors glue?
GW glue is poly-cement, its a solvent so it actually melts your plastic together, so you cant really get them apart unless you use a bit of force and snap your joint. Using superglue on the other hand comes apart with revell thinners, (which also is brilliant at stripping paint on plastic) hope this helps!
 

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Grand Lord Munchkin
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7,044 Posts
Can any US member suggest a method for stripping glue from a model that would work faster than 2-3 days?
 

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I just pulled a model out of a Simple Green soak.
It's been in for about 2 days, and I must say that I am impressed with the results.
While I was not able to get the paint off down to the unprimmed color (I still have a fairly heavy hand with paint :)), I was able to remove more than enough paint to reprime the model.
The only problem I encounterd was sarge's chainsword arm fell off. Easily fixable, but kinda annoying.
 

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Easy Off Oven Cleaner for Pewter

I'm surprised no one's mentioned Easy Off Oven Cleaner. Just remember to use it in a well-ventilated space and use gloves and mask.

I had gotten some minis secondhand and wanted to undercoat them black not the white they had on. And a couple others had really horrible paint jobs.

I put the minis in a container and sprayed them. In 45 minutes I was able to brush off quite a bit, but not the crevices. I let them soak overnight and the next day I was able to get rid of all the paint. At that time, the glue at the joints were softening, so I let them sit for longer. Three days later, I was able to peel away the glue and the green stuff that had been used to keep a thunderhammer together. It's easiest to brush them clean under running water.

The last thing I did was to put the minis in another container, dump in a couple spoonfuls of baking powder and poured in enough water to cover the minis. You have to do this outside since the reaction (fumes) is immediate. This will neutralize any remaining oven cleaner. And gets rid of the smell.

One more thorough rinse and you are good to go.

This method does work on plastic minis but it depends on the generation. My space marines in Mark VII armor were fine, but the ones in Mark VI, the ones made out of a light beige plastic, well, the paint and plastic reacted.
 

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so when using Simply Green on metal and plastic do I just use its strait or dilute it?
 

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I use Castrol Super Clean Degreaser. I'm not sure if it works completely, the models are currently soaking in it right now. Does any1 else here use it?

Plarz, i just read ur tutorial. is it the same time period and method for plastic models too?
 

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i was told to use fairy power spray cleaner, it really shifts paint just spray on the mini (i tend to leave them in the sink ) leave for about an hour or longer. then scrub it with old toothbrush (smokers toothbrushes are best as they have really stiff bistles) and the paint just falls away. works on both metal and plastic with no ill effects.thanks to marcas at gw oxford
 

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Señor Member
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I used Simple Green from Bunnings, and it turned the pewter models a different colour? What's up with that? Is there something I did wrong?
 

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Premium Member
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I used Simple Green from Bunnings, and it turned the pewter models a different colour? What's up with that? Is there something I did wrong?
I've seen this mentioned a couple of times, as long as your primer still goes on OK I wouldn't worry too much.

Does anyone have any tips for anything else safe to use on resin?
I got a job recently of painting a Napoleonic soldier, he needed stripping, which I thought would be an easy job, the previous guy hadn't primed it and the paint was quite thin. Oh was I wrong!
The paint was horrible and took ages to come off, I'm not sure what paint was used, it looked like acrylic but came off in blobs like rubber solution glue.
So is there anything a bit stronger than Dettol/Simple Green that's still safe with resin?
 

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I've always just poured Simple Green into a glass I never drink out of, and dumped a bunch of minis into it. Cover it up, wait about 12 hours, take an old toothbrush to it. Works *every* time.
 

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Now.. now if I screw up.. if can start over! :D

Huzzah! thankyou! xD
 
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