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I believe that Lahmian Medium is what's used for this. It also serves as a satin varnish if I remember right.
 

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GW recommends using Lahmian medium. But don't just use that, because it'll look terrible.

Gloss varnish before transfer (I believe it's called 'ard coat?) --> aply transfer --> gloss varnish --> washes/weathering/.... --> lahmian medium/mat varnish




*edit* even better would be microsol products to apply transfers, but that's not strictly necessary. It's just handy to have if you apply them to none flat surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
GW recommends using Lahmian medium. But don't just use that, because it'll look terrible.

Gloss varnish before transfer (I believe it's called 'ard coat?) --> aply transfer --> gloss varnish --> washes/weathering/.... --> lahmian medium/mat varnish




*edit* even better would be microsol products to apply transfers, but that's not strictly necessary. It's just handy to have if you apply them to none flat surfaces.
I only really have the lahmian medium and the old ardcoat that's been in my box for ages now. I'd already applied a layer of lahmian medium without putting gloss below it, seems ok but not exactly sealed, should I put a layer of gloss over it?
 

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I only really have the lahmian medium and the old ardcoat that's been in my box for ages now. I'd already applied a layer of lahmian medium without putting gloss below it, seems ok but not exactly sealed, should I put a layer of gloss over it?
You still can, if nothing is gooped on there too badly.
 

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Get your hands on this stuff. You can pick it up on evilbay. It's changed my attitude to decals altogether. Gloss varnish, wash the area with microsol, apply decal, then some more microsol on top, leave to soften a bit, gently use a brush to remove bubbles or mold to details, add a touch more of this stuff. A final coat of gloss varnish when completely dry. It actually forms a chemical bond to the varnish so you can't see the transparent edging that normally needs painting over. Well worth the few quid.

EDIT: 6000 posts!

 

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Most of my transfers go on shoulder pads so I generally varnish the entire area before putting it on, but if say it is on a vehicle just do the areas the transfer is going on, just make sure you matte varnish it at the end to stop i standing out
 

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I use Rejuvenate Floor Restorer Protectant, but I'm pretty sure any floor polish will work. It's basically polyurethane. For shoulder pads I put a little on the shoulder pad and then float my decal on. I let the floor polish cure a little and then put a little more on. I am basically trapping the decal between two thin layers of polyurethane; a little matt coat once it dries and you're done.
 

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I use Rejuvenate Floor Restorer Protectant, but I'm pretty sure any floor polish will work. It's basically polyurethane. For shoulder pads I put a little on the shoulder pad and then float my decal on. I let the floor polish cure a little and then put a little more on. I am basically trapping the decal between two thin layers of polyurethane; a little matt coat once it dries and you're done.
im intrigued by this. Can you show any examples of doing it this way? like a few WIP shots? i want to see how it compares to the traditional method for doing this.
 

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Examples of Rejuvenation Floor Polish Decals

im intrigued by this. Can you show any examples of doing it this way? like a few WIP shots? i want to see how it compares to the traditional method for doing this.
I can take a few snap shots of finished models, if that's ok... I'm not working on anybody in power armor at the moment.

Long Fangs - Right


Long Fangs - Left


Let me see if I can find some model to put a decal on...
:victory:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've done three of my own so far, think they've come out ok. Atm I'm just adding the transfer putting some lahmian medium over it, then putting a layer of ard coat followed by another layer of lahmian medium, seems to be doing the job.
 
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