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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have begun work on my Spinespur Survival Horror minis to hopefully show the game off at my LGS and gaming club soon. I have decided that I want all the minis to be based as if they are among the streets of some run-down forgotten city. I've looked at all the bases shown on the minis at Comfy Chair Games website and it looks like they've used plasticard to do this. I'm using standard flat plasticcard as well as square patterned sheet that looks like sidewalk paving or interior flooring. To give the flat card some texture I'm using citadel Typhus Corrosion spread around. Only one thing missing and that's cracks in the plasticcard.

What is the best way to add cracks? I've tried heating up a sharp tool and dragging it across, but it does not give a good look - just looks like I burned the plastic card. I've tried carving it out with an exacto, but it looks too manufactured. I've also tried a scoring tool, but it just doesn't go deep enough or thick enough.

So how do you add good looking cracks to plastic card?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have tried bending it, but just buggers the material - not the way to go. I'm thinking of just cutting it, trimming a little, and gluing back in place. A little more than I wanted to do just for a crack, but may be the best way.
 

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This looks like winning to me. I know it's 'cracked earth', but with grey paint and a bit more attention to how you lay out the egg shell you might get results closer to what you want.

Alternately, I would put GS on a few bases and sculpt what I like the look of then make molds for replication. Rock faces are sometimes easier to cut after the putty has cured if you're looking for sharp edges :eek:k:
 

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What I did (no pics) is cut the plasticard into squares and rectangles. Then I took a knife and cut all the edges at angles. Once they were all glued to the base, the angles made it look like they were individual stones because they had a "natural" gap at the top. Also helped with highlighting as well. Can even do this to make a cobblestone look as well.
 

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In the past I've used the plastic from GW blister/clam packs chopped up to make the concrete parts and sand inbetween for the rubble. Seemed to work ok. The examples in the pictures above would need a thicker plastic and you would need to attack the edges a bit with hobby knives and files. Time consuming but probably worth the effort if you want your mini's to look good.
 

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What you need to do is score the plasticard then snap it. Put the pieces back next to each other, and voila! Cracked concrete. Now the last time *I* did it, I was almost insane, and cut up .5mm squares of magnetic business cards, and glued them on individually and painted them for a tile floor affect. Never again. More time on the silly bases then on the Raven Guard they based. Same thing for Empire. Gave up halfway through. The other answer, though this requires a lot of work, is here:

http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/moldsfloor.html

They make square cracked floor tile plaster moulds. Just use thin layers of plaster instead of filling the mould, and clip/sand them. Again, a lot of work, but worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was avoiding pre-made bases. While awesome and varied, I vowed to never buy one lol. I'm pretty adept when it comes to modeling - not the best but far from the worst. I have an extensive collection of materials to work with (various thickness and detailed plastic card, bits and bobs, epoxy clays, etc, and tools). I was just wondering if I was missing a technique or if there was an easier way about this than cutting it all up and gluing it down. I've got mine looking pretty good (at least like the examples I posted above), just forgot to put craccks in a few before I glued things on. Maybe I'll just paint the cracks onto those ones and cut the card up from here on out. Definitely giving thought into casting my own. That way I can make 10 or so varied and just make duplicates.
 

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Bumping an old thread here, but I've been off the site for aaaages.

Paint your material with the dark under-colour you'd like; dark grey, black, whatever...

Then, once it's dry, lay a thin coat of PVA glue over the top. Be quick-ish with it, and don't "paint" it too much or move it around to much, as the glue will begin to mix with the dry paint and it'll lift the paint.
If needed, once dry, repeat this coat of glue but again be quick as to not lift the lower coats of paint and glue.

Leave to dry... now, paint on your top coat, the lighter coat, thin-medium thickness, but again, be quick with the brush and try not to "paint" too much as it will begin to soften the glue and mix and eventually lift the glue...

Leave to dry naturally and as the top coat of paint dries, the water in the paint evaporates and the paint shrinks, pulling the glue causing the PVA to split and crack, revealing the dark undercoat in the cracks.
 

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DA GOLDEN WAAAGH
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Quite the necromancer arn't you @Model Soldier? I supose its completely fine with this technique your talking about.

This process you mention is quite interesting but not too sure i understand correctly could you do some photos up for it to explain a little better or even better a full tutorial for it.
 

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It'd pretty simple... I have a bad image of a dodgy tree I made ages ago using this technique... picture's not great but have a look at the bark.

1. Dark paint undercoat, leave to dry
2. PVA Glue, leave to dry
3. Light paint top coat, leave to dry and the PVA cracks to reveal the undercoat
 

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DA GOLDEN WAAAGH
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Hmm think i can see it. Well done, any tips of getting longer cracks i supose longer drying time between paint and pva might cause propergation of longer creases....

Certainly something to think on.
 
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