Warhammer 40k Forum and Wargaming Forums banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does any one else do this? i find myself doing it when im bored or out of spary paint and on models with lots of fine detail. I acuatly find it sometimes looks better then spary undercoats, on small models like goblins or IG. Anyone else like to just hand paint undercoats sometimes and do you think it is just as effective as spary?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
12,822 Posts
Unless it's a large flat model, such as a vehicle (to stop any slightly thicker paint texturing the model), I always do this.



 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,975 Posts
never, wouldnt dream of it, you cannot get a finer layer of paint on a model than with a spray, if you are clogging a model or loosing detail then your doing it wrong
Yup, you are either too close, too slow with a pass, not keeping the can vertical or not giving a layer enough time to dry, or all of the above.

Best results are gained by spraying from at least 8-12 inches away from the object in a fluid side to side motion without stopping. A big mistake people also make is the angle of the can to the object being painted. The can needs to be vertical (up and down) and not pointing down or horizontal. I paint my models on a sawhorse, this way I can keep the can at a proper angle and not get any globs or spurts. I aim the can about 6 inches before a model and about a foot away and start spraying and then move the can sideways across the model(s) never stopping or going back to give a bare spot a quick "squirt" and stop spraying after about 6 inches past the model(s). This ensures that I give each model an even coat without getting any spurts or globs from the initial discharge from the nozzle. Smooth and even movement and always shake the can between sprays.

Also, never use "sandable automotive primer." That stuff is too thick for miniatures or even tank models. It will fill in every little nook and cranny on a model, guaranteed.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
never, wouldnt dream of it, you cannot get a finer layer of paint on a model than with a spray (...)
Airbrush. Makes your spray painted figure (even at the finest coating possible) look like being dipped in wall paint.

(...) if you are clogging a model or loosing detail then your doing it wrong
Quoted For Truth.
 

· nice boy, daft though !
Joined
·
10,179 Posts
Airbrush. Makes your spray painted figure (even at the finest coating possible) look like being dipped in wall paint.
I was including airbrushes in the whole spray category, though i havent found a decent acrylic primer yet, so if anyone knows one, that would be cool, gonna see about the vallejo one norm mentioned though, i maybe able to get hold of that from a supplier i will let you know.



 

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
@bitsandkits:
I usually use a Vallejo airbrush grey.

And I hope my previous post didn't come out as somewhat snappy, just wanted to clarify on the "spray" generalization.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am using army painter black spary but im out at the moment. I used to use GW spary primer but i got a can that was fuzzy as shit (it was not humittiy, age, or any other factor it was just shit). I would rather have a air brush but have yet to find one that is not crap (the GW one...:puke:). I hate dealing with spary paint as it gets humid as hell in central missouri in the summer and spring and to cold in the winter to paint out side. I cant paint indoors as it would fumagate my house (i cant smell so i dosnt bother me but every one complains). I hand under coat manily because casue the most convient thing for me at the momeant and i dont have to pay 11$ a can for army painter.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
can i ask those of you that are undercoating with a brush what primer are you using ?
I started out using black gesso because it's cheap as chips (about 8 USD for a 500mL squeeze bottle). After thinning it with isopropyl alcohol or water I just dab it on the model and clean up the excess. You have to observe the mini for a bit after painting because it tends to dribble downwards and into recesses, but if done right it shrinks around the model and thins into a satin undercoat.

Speaking of which, the satin finish is distracting when I start painting highlights. Does anyone know how to achieve a matte effect on a satin surface? I've tried brushing chaos black onto it but it doesn't seem to do much. I'm afraid of using brush-on matte varnish because that tends to leave brush marks on the model.
 

· nice boy, daft though !
Joined
·
10,179 Posts
I have to admit im tempted to branch out into selling paints, but just using this site as a snap shot, people use such a massive variation of stuff to get the job done im not sure if its a good idea.
I have to admit i swear by GW spray primer (white and black) I have used them extensively and i have had alot of black armies over the years so they speed up painting alot, but i thought brush priming was dead



 

· Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
I used to use GW Chaos Black spray primer, but it was expensive as hell and still came out somewhat shiny. The guy at Pegasus introduced me to "Board to Pieces" primer. it goes on a lot thinner, and is a very flat black with minimal sheen but is still a very smooth finish and makes my BT look sexy as hell. The only real "problem" i have with it is when i make a little mistake painting and have to go over it with chaos black it actually turns the chaos black into a shiney red spot :mad:, though it only really shows on big flat areas on tanks. Other than that it is a very nice primer, is about $4-$5 less than GW primer, i've yet to see drips, and you do seem to get a lot out of it. i've done 5 boxes worth of AoBR Orks, 4000 pts of SM, and a CSM battleforce, and im down to like 1/3 of my 5th or 6th can? I can honestly say im never going back to GW primer again.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top