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Have i increased the difficulty too much? should i have a simpler tut before i go into this techniqu

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Discussion Starter #1
Fabrics - Cloaks 2.2.5

Right guys this tutorial is how I would actually do a cloak, the difficult level has jumped a bit and ideally id like to leave this tutorial till a little later on, but consider this preparation for the robe tutorials, as this is the main technique I will be using! The tutorial is a little long, but it incorporates all 3 elements u may want to put into a cloak. (thick folds, shoulder straps and flappy side bits, that is the technical term, honest!) this cloak is a excessive, and i prob wouldnt use this technique in such a way, this is just to show u guys a 3 areas on one mini
Righto

Tool Prep

1). Water cup
2). Sculpting Tool
3). Sharp Knife
4). Thick plasticard
5). Thin plasticard (not essential, but it makes later stuff easier)
6). Greenstuff (or for the colour blind, a big liquerice swirl!)

Specialised Tools: Putty Oven

Putty Ovens are a great piece of kit, basically, Gs cures quicker under heat, a putty oven can cure Gs totally in under an hr (normally takes 24hrs), cures Gs so u can work on top of it, 10 mins (normally 3 hrs)
All u need is a tube that has a shiny lining (ie Pringles tube, or after shave packaging like mine, Jean Paul Gaultier, only the best for my ladies :p) place a lamp over it (40-60w bulb). adjust your mini so it sits just above the bottom (ie place it on somethin). Be careful though, too much heat will melt things, like the base of my model above, so test out the distance the map is from the mini, u wont need too much heat.

1). Mix some Gs, use the mixture ur Gs comes in (usually 60 yelow 40 blue) leave it to cure for 20 mins if u find it too awkward to use and bulk out ur mini. Ur basically providing a layer for the folds to be put on top on later, try to keep it flat and smooth


2). Cut a square piece of thin plasticard out, making it roughly the same width of the gap u want to cover. U will use this to put folds on later. If u don’t have any cut some Gs into a square and use that instead. Plasticard is better to use because it is easier to keep smooth, and is stronger. Then super glue it on, making sure its curved around the legs. u can use this to get any shaped cloak, even flappy ones, just adjust the plasitcard to shape and line it up (dont glue it on straight away, sometime its easier to get the bottom folds done first then glue it on)


3). Cut the edges off the plasticard’s sides and top so its flush against the Gs


4). Score both shoulders on the areas where u want the Gs to be.

5). Roll a small sausage of Gs, making a small point at one end, place it on the shoulder, and using ur sculpting tool flatten it and shape it, so it goes from a point to a long rectangle over the shoulder. Then repeat on the other side



6). Score the side of the mini, roll another little sausage, place it down the side, flatten it and then push and work it into the GS underneath, then repeat on the other side



7). Take the back of ur knife and place the tip in the middle of the Gs’s point (on the shoulder) and then gently rock the blade backwards, down the Gs, trying to keep it in the middle all the way down, repeat on other shoulder


8 ). Place 2 more lines into the shoulder using the first as a guide. Using the side of ur tool, or the back of ur blade, go down the length of each crease and widen it, pushin left and right. This not only widens the crease but increases the height of the fold. Add a few more folds (if u like) using the same principle, just remember, folds are thin at the top, thick in the middle and then thin at the bottom.


9). Using ur knife cut off about 1-2mm of the green stuff on both sides, this makes the corners on the sides shaper, adding realism


10). Now take ur inner most fold and push it out so it angles away, pointing towards the middle, if ur fold is too long, cut it short, or make a fold off that, smooth the sides of the fold and work it into the Gs below so its a nice clean fold, repeat on the opposite side


11). Score with ur knife along the back of the head/shoulders of ur mini. Roll a small sausage of Gs, make it pointy at both ends and place it on. Flatten it so its a nice shape and is fairly symetrical. Now ur goin to make the fold stand up a little more, using the edge of ur tool, from underneath push up gently, then flatten the top, pushing towards u (away from the mini) this should give u a nice fold if ur patient.


12). This section is now finished, roll a small ball of Gs and place it between the shoulder blades. Push the backpack on to it so it sticks. now you can get an idea of how it looks and where it will be, important for later stages becuase u want to know where ur bottom folds should end. Remove the pack and Gs ball. I took a break here and placed the mini into my putty oven. If u don’t have one, leave it for 3-4hrs

U could spilt this part up into 2 sections, left and right if u think it would be easier

13). The flappy parts. Mix some more Green stuff (40% yellow 60% green), leave for 30 mins. Using previous techniques cut it in to a trapezium shape that has a sharp angle. Make the piece high enough so it will touch both the bottom of the plasticard and the bottom of the folds coming from the shoulder


14). Score the plasticard on both sides. Place the piece so the bottom is level with the plasticard and the angle roughly reaches where the folds from the shoulder end.


15). Push the Gs in place. Using ur tool push the edge (in the middle) down so its fairly flush with the plasticard. Then push the side of ur tool into the putty at the top where it meets the shoulder folds, making a crease that matches the folds above. thin the fold so it ends, making it about 3-5mm long. Repeat on the other side, If u want to make any curves in the flaps do it now, leaving the Gs to cure



16). The middle folds. Score the plasitcard up! Roll a long sausage of Gs, making one end quite fat and the other fairly skinny, place it down on the left side at an angle, and then flatten it


17). Push the edges out so they work themselves (flatten) into the previous layer. Then slowly push the middle up to a point that goes fro, top to bottom. Working up from the bottom, make sure u push from one side, then the other. Work it so u get a nice neat triangle. Also, if u look at it from the side, try to make it so u have a nice slope goin up the fold, with the bottom the furthest out.


18). Repeat on the opposite side, then come back and do another fold on the left, repeat right, then repeat centre. U may want to leave the putty to cure after each fold (originally I found it easier because i would ruin the work I had next to me, so I let the previous work cure, now I don’t, I find it easier to get a smoother finish when the work next to me is still ‘wet’, u can blend the Gs together eaier.)

The next set of pics is a progression of the folds in the cloak. Done the same as described above, starting from the finished first fold






19). Green Blob for backpack, push the pack on, using the point of ur knife, put some holes and damage in to ur cloak. Leave to cure, remove backpack and glue on


Finished!
 

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Porn King!!!
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Damn, I think I am going to do this for my daemonvessel model!

I would leave it as one post DM, easier to follow that way I think. What about the inside of the cloak? Do you just leave it as bare plasticard or do you add gs in there too?
 

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Now that is one seriously usefull tutorial, great work Darkmessiah!

I was actually working on something similiar for a henchman to go
with that Inquisitor Gideon Lorr that has been sitting on my shell for
a very, very long time.

I'll definitely be giving tjis methode a try as well for some of my wordbearers
or some other random models!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Wraithlord said:
What about the inside of the cloak? Do you just leave it as bare plasticard or do you add gs in there too?
u can if u want, i havnt with this because u wont notice it, and it would be too diff, if u make a cloak where the inside is more visible and accesible then yes, but alot of the time u wont really need it`

so wot do u reckon guys, keep the tutorials at this level? or do some of u guys feel like u need a little more time to build u skills up coz i could do a lower difficulty tut that slots in just before full robes
 

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I think i need more practice.

Im doing the cloak/hood today, and the loin cloth.

I tried to do the loin cloth last night, but i was so tired.
 

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Porn King!!!
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u can if u want, i havnt with this because u wont notice it, and it would be too diff, if u make a cloak where the inside is more visible and accesible then yes, but alot of the time u wont really need it`
True, hadn't thought of that.


As far as the poll goes, I voted yes for a simpler tutorial just because I do think that this tutorial is quite a jump up from the cape one. Leave this one up obviously but maybe put one in that will be somewhere in between this and capes. I am not having a hard time yet with this stuff but I will admit to being a bit daunted by this one, especially without getting to try the cape one yet :). I know some people who wouldn't even try this because of the jump in difficulty. Just my thoughts though DM. :wink:

As far as this tutorial goes, unfortunately I won't get to try it out until Thursday at least. I need to get plasticard and I will have to wait until payday to get it :?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i put this tutorial up now for the sake of completness, gettin cloaks/capes done, then moving on.

if a couple of people vote yes ill slowly build up in the robes section, using this technique, but in smaller more managable areas
 

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Cloak is just a hard piece to do imo, its a great tutorial, speed wise i dunno i get it, just need more practice CURSE NOT BEING ABLE TO GET GS! :cry:
 

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Porn King!!!
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Gah, paycheck comes in, plasticard is out of stock at my local store :p. Gonna have to wait a bit longer.
 

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Porn King!!!
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Hey DM, you mentioned at the beginning that if you don't have any plasticard you can use greenstuff for the back piece. I take it you would have to let it harden first before you start sculpting over it, correct?
 

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Porn King!!!
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Cool. In the absence of available card, I will do that then.

Question 2. What if I want the cloak to be blowing slightly to one side instead of even in the middle. Do I move the card/gs square over or just change the shape of the side pieces I cut to go onto that? This one I mean?



Also, have you ever tried using rubbing alcohol on the gs when you want to smooth it out? I had someone tell me that once (and he was probably around the same level as you are) and have yet to try it. I do know that the guy was known around here for his extremely smooth gs work.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the onlt time iv heard about that is when they have been using petrolium jelly as a lubricant. i know alot of the pros use that as a wat to keep their stuff smooth, u would need to use rubbing alcohol to get it off, thats y i dont use it

about the billowing, the plasticard is their as smothin to build up from, u basically want to shape it roughly to the postion u want, so no, it doesnt have to be centre all the time, mold it to the shape u want
 

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Porn King!!!
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Well I have gotten to the part with the lower flaps and the gs is curing. Tomorrow comes the folds.
 

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Porn King!!!
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And here is the finished cloak


 

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Jac "Baneblade" O'Bite
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Wow very nice Wraithlord, the back in particuler is fantastic. I really wish I had enough green stuff hanging around to do this. Great lession as well Dark
 

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Discussion Starter #18
really nice wraith, uv taken a mini that started average ish after the conversion and uv made it quite spectacular

congrats and how did u find it?

jacobite, go buy some
 
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