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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if this is the right place to put this... but here it goes.

I got an old metal Chaos Dread, and when I glued it together everything stayed glued except his torso to his legs. I've been using the thin Citadel glue. Should I try something thicker? Or something entirely different?
 

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Jac "Baneblade" O'Bite
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Are you pinning the joints or just glueing?

Regardless of which (and I really recommend pinning) don't bother with the citadel stuff, it's crap really. You'd be better with the 2 dollar a tube superglue you get from the discount shops (thats what I use).
 

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Yeah I second that. Citadel is fucking awful for modelling supplies (glue and brushes especially).

I have been gluing old metal noise marines recently. Was using citadel as I was out of my usual glue and I got some in a joblot ages ago, and it wouldn't stick even after 10 minutes of holding pieces together...Finally thought "fuck this" and went into town to pick up my usual brand for metals:

http://www.javis.co.uk/index.php?pa...ufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2

"Medium Strength". If you can't find this brand where you live just ask in a model store for medium strength glue for metals or look on ebay if you are really stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, see thats the odd thing. The Citadel Glue worked great on every other joint, it's just the connection between his legs and top.
 

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Which metal?
 

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If it's an old model the metal has probably oxidised. If you give it a quick rub over with a nail file you will get back to the shiney metal which will stick easier.

If you don't want to use pinning, try cross-hatching both surfaces which will give the glue something to grip onto.

The old Chaos Dread is a heavy beast, it's own weight is it's greatest enemy.
 

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Generally for models bigger than infantry, citadel thin is crap, you want something that isn't a brush applicator, and most metal models will need pinning so that they stay together better.
 

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Angryman
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There is an old problem with that model, the inverted cone with the large pin in the middle on the top of the legs is sometimes concave on the contact surface, so you only get minimal contact around the edges on the bonding surface. This particular join is well suited to a dose of 5 minute araldite, It will fill the gaps, just be sure you NEVER want to dismantle it again, as it will be impossible.
 

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An old mate of mine used to have problems with old white metal models and super glue, so one day he got out his hobby soldering kit and began rebuilding his metal models using flux and solder, then once it was complete he tackled the excess with a file and the result was amazing, seemless models, that needed no green stuff and the models are as solid as a rock. He then used Auto Primer to prime the models and gave the models a great paint job.

Oh and no these were not GW models, but i suspect he could do them without much fuss.
 
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