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In this tutorial I will be listing handy gadgets I have either come up with myself or come accross on the internet. If I discovered it elsewhere credit and links will be provided to the proper website or if it emailed to me or PMed I will give credit.
ITEMS CREATED/BUILT
Brush Holder by djinn24
This is a very inexpensive device that a person can make in the matter of minutes. This gadget is designed to elevate your brushes off the bottom of the rinse water so it will not ruin your brush by causing the tip to hook over. This is very inexpensive and should only take a few minutes to make but will extend the life of your brushes.
What you will need:
A razor knife or another cutting tool with a sharp edge
You will also need something made out of foam like the floating devices your the pool, whatch the thickness, you can also make it out of rubber.
1. Take the object that you normal rinse your brush out (I nomrally use mason jars, heavy and clear so you can see how dirty your water it) and measure the top.
2. Since the top on mine is round I will cut out a circle larger then the top of your "jar".
3. You you will need to carefully cut and circle out of the other circle you just cut. You should now have something that looks like a doughnut, you will want to cut it so that you have about 3/4 inches overhaninging the water.
4. You will now want to go around the inside of the and cut slits about 1/4 inch deep spaced about half an inch all the way around. You may need to do another slit very close to previous cut for larger brush handles.
5. Now you set the Doughnut with the slits cut into it over your "jar" and you are done. You can place your brushes into the slits to hold them in the water but it eliminates them pressing on the bottom causing a Hook Tip.
Priming Rack by djinn24
This is a little gadget I came up with, it help with primering the bottom of a model without worries of the models paint getting stuck to the surface you are working on.
What you will need:
2 x 4 around 12 to 18 inches long (30-45cm)
Wire rod or coat hangers
Aligator Clamps designed to have wire run into the back, avalible at automotive shops
Wire Cutters
Drill with bit the same size or a tad smaller then the wire you are using.
1st: Go along and drill holes 3/4 of the way into the board spaced about 1 and a half inches apart 1 inch from one of the edges.
2nd: Cut wire at lengths of 8.5 inches and 10 inches. If you have and even number of holes then cut the same amount of each length, if you have an odd number of holes but more 10 inch rods.
3rd: Bend both rods on one end only so they are sloped downward. You want about 3 inches of wire on the bend. So on a 10 inch wire you will have 7 inches below the bend and 3 inches bent at roughtly 105 degrees and pointing slightly at the ground (sorry, I wish I had a camera to show you).
4th: On the shorter end after the bend place an alligator clamp and crimp it to the wire securely.
5th: Now insert the longer piece of wire into the wooden base, alternating long and short rods. (You may have to put some wood glue in the hole to secure the rods tightly).
Now you can put your models on the hanger so you can get the akward angles painted without laying the models on their side. The higher rids are for larger models and the lower rods can accomidate smaller models. You may want to go to an automotive shop and buy some rubber tubing to slide over the aligator clamps if you need to hold something not on a base or a smaller item so it does not damage it.
Miniatures Oven by Brush Thralls
OK in my previous posted tutorial on what to do to prep a model I spoke of a model oven several times. What is this device you may ask? It is simply a device used to slightly heat up your model to dry paint or cure green stuff or even cure glue faster. Here is the text from The Brush Thralls, a great minis website, though they do not deal with Warhammer.
They are simple to make and for the most part on the cheap side. The items you will need are as follows:
1 lamp with a wide reflector
1 food container with a foil lining
1 knife
1 25 watt or lower bulb
This object was originally posted as part of an article titled Sculpting 101 By Rob "Terarin" Strohmeyer. I highly encourage everyone to visit their website and read the full article. I have used lights to help cure and dry my minis before but have not made a dedicated oven for them. I am in no way connected with this fine group of painters and converters, just giving credit where it is due.
Sometimes waiting for putty to cure can be frustrating. Often you’ll find you need to lay down one layer or detail, and have to wait for it to cure before you can move on to the next. This is one of those parts about working in stages that can really make you feel like you’re not making any progress.
There is an easy solution: Build an oven for baking the putty. But wait! Epoxy putty cures at room temperature and doesn’t require baking to harden. This is true, but adding heat actually speeds up the curing process, so what normally takes 24 hours will only take 1-2.
A miniatures oven is pretty easy to build. Use either a metal coffee can, or a cardboard container that has a metal lining (like for coffee creamer or beef jerky). Remove the top from the container. This is where the heat source will be applied. Cut a small window at the bottom so that you can slide a miniature inside. Finally, use a desk lamp or a shop lamp to mount the top of the can and hold the bulb inside. The heat from the light bulb will help green stuff and other epoxy putties set up faster and allow you to get back to work faster.
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WARNING: Do not use a very hot lamp. The optimum number I’ve seen for the inside of the oven is 120 degree Fahrenheit. Any hotter than this and the putty is likely to be ruined. Green Stuff tends to turn brown, and becomes spongy and porous.
Usually a 15W or 25W light bulb will work. I’ve had best luck with 25W. When I first experimented with the oven, a 60W bulb baked Green Stuff too hot; turning it into a mess, and melted the base on the figure I was converting. 25W seems to be about right.
ITEMS PURCHASED
In this section I will be adding items that you can buy that will make your life easier. As above credit will be given to persons who suggests them.
Multispeed Dremel Tool by mgtymouze
This will be a very long article and I will be posting more information on it later.
![]()
If you have not heard of a Dremel you have been living under a rock. This is single handly the best took you can have in your tool box next to your paint brush. There is hundreds of different tips that can do anything from buff to cut.
Hold and Fold by mgtymouze
Used for scale modeling photo etched brass. They make an 8" version that will lock in plasticard and make it easier to work with.
![]()
Review by Cookie Sewell of Missing Lynx
Availabe from The Small Shop
Price: $75.00
![]()
Sold by: First Street
Price: $99.95
![]()
What: OLFA Saw Blades KB4-NS/3 Model 9169
Sold By: Amazon
Price: $4.67
Submitted by: Galahad
A small blade attachment for your exsisting hobby knife handles that is simular to the razro saws. Easier to fit into tighter places then a razor saw.
What: OLFA Plastic Laminate Cutter Heavy Duty P-800 Model 5012
Sold By: Amazon
Price: $8.48
Submitted By: Galahad
A tool used to cut plasti-card for modeling. Combo this with a medal edged ruler to ensure deep and straight cuts.
ITEMS CREATED/BUILT
Brush Holder by djinn24
This is a very inexpensive device that a person can make in the matter of minutes. This gadget is designed to elevate your brushes off the bottom of the rinse water so it will not ruin your brush by causing the tip to hook over. This is very inexpensive and should only take a few minutes to make but will extend the life of your brushes.
What you will need:
A razor knife or another cutting tool with a sharp edge
You will also need something made out of foam like the floating devices your the pool, whatch the thickness, you can also make it out of rubber.
1. Take the object that you normal rinse your brush out (I nomrally use mason jars, heavy and clear so you can see how dirty your water it) and measure the top.
2. Since the top on mine is round I will cut out a circle larger then the top of your "jar".
3. You you will need to carefully cut and circle out of the other circle you just cut. You should now have something that looks like a doughnut, you will want to cut it so that you have about 3/4 inches overhaninging the water.
4. You will now want to go around the inside of the and cut slits about 1/4 inch deep spaced about half an inch all the way around. You may need to do another slit very close to previous cut for larger brush handles.
5. Now you set the Doughnut with the slits cut into it over your "jar" and you are done. You can place your brushes into the slits to hold them in the water but it eliminates them pressing on the bottom causing a Hook Tip.
Priming Rack by djinn24
This is a little gadget I came up with, it help with primering the bottom of a model without worries of the models paint getting stuck to the surface you are working on.
What you will need:
2 x 4 around 12 to 18 inches long (30-45cm)
Wire rod or coat hangers
Aligator Clamps designed to have wire run into the back, avalible at automotive shops
Wire Cutters
Drill with bit the same size or a tad smaller then the wire you are using.
1st: Go along and drill holes 3/4 of the way into the board spaced about 1 and a half inches apart 1 inch from one of the edges.
2nd: Cut wire at lengths of 8.5 inches and 10 inches. If you have and even number of holes then cut the same amount of each length, if you have an odd number of holes but more 10 inch rods.
3rd: Bend both rods on one end only so they are sloped downward. You want about 3 inches of wire on the bend. So on a 10 inch wire you will have 7 inches below the bend and 3 inches bent at roughtly 105 degrees and pointing slightly at the ground (sorry, I wish I had a camera to show you).
4th: On the shorter end after the bend place an alligator clamp and crimp it to the wire securely.
5th: Now insert the longer piece of wire into the wooden base, alternating long and short rods. (You may have to put some wood glue in the hole to secure the rods tightly).
Now you can put your models on the hanger so you can get the akward angles painted without laying the models on their side. The higher rids are for larger models and the lower rods can accomidate smaller models. You may want to go to an automotive shop and buy some rubber tubing to slide over the aligator clamps if you need to hold something not on a base or a smaller item so it does not damage it.
Miniatures Oven by Brush Thralls
OK in my previous posted tutorial on what to do to prep a model I spoke of a model oven several times. What is this device you may ask? It is simply a device used to slightly heat up your model to dry paint or cure green stuff or even cure glue faster. Here is the text from The Brush Thralls, a great minis website, though they do not deal with Warhammer.
They are simple to make and for the most part on the cheap side. The items you will need are as follows:
1 lamp with a wide reflector
1 food container with a foil lining
1 knife
1 25 watt or lower bulb
This object was originally posted as part of an article titled Sculpting 101 By Rob "Terarin" Strohmeyer. I highly encourage everyone to visit their website and read the full article. I have used lights to help cure and dry my minis before but have not made a dedicated oven for them. I am in no way connected with this fine group of painters and converters, just giving credit where it is due.
Sometimes waiting for putty to cure can be frustrating. Often you’ll find you need to lay down one layer or detail, and have to wait for it to cure before you can move on to the next. This is one of those parts about working in stages that can really make you feel like you’re not making any progress.
There is an easy solution: Build an oven for baking the putty. But wait! Epoxy putty cures at room temperature and doesn’t require baking to harden. This is true, but adding heat actually speeds up the curing process, so what normally takes 24 hours will only take 1-2.
A miniatures oven is pretty easy to build. Use either a metal coffee can, or a cardboard container that has a metal lining (like for coffee creamer or beef jerky). Remove the top from the container. This is where the heat source will be applied. Cut a small window at the bottom so that you can slide a miniature inside. Finally, use a desk lamp or a shop lamp to mount the top of the can and hold the bulb inside. The heat from the light bulb will help green stuff and other epoxy putties set up faster and allow you to get back to work faster.
WARNING: Do not use a very hot lamp. The optimum number I’ve seen for the inside of the oven is 120 degree Fahrenheit. Any hotter than this and the putty is likely to be ruined. Green Stuff tends to turn brown, and becomes spongy and porous.
Usually a 15W or 25W light bulb will work. I’ve had best luck with 25W. When I first experimented with the oven, a 60W bulb baked Green Stuff too hot; turning it into a mess, and melted the base on the figure I was converting. 25W seems to be about right.
The Brush Thralls
ITEMS PURCHASED
In this section I will be adding items that you can buy that will make your life easier. As above credit will be given to persons who suggests them.
Multispeed Dremel Tool by mgtymouze
This will be a very long article and I will be posting more information on it later.
If you have not heard of a Dremel you have been living under a rock. This is single handly the best took you can have in your tool box next to your paint brush. There is hundreds of different tips that can do anything from buff to cut.
Hold and Fold by mgtymouze
Used for scale modeling photo etched brass. They make an 8" version that will lock in plasticard and make it easier to work with.
Availabe from The Small Shop
Price: $75.00
Magnifying Desk Lamp by djinn24
Sold by: First Street
Price: $99.95
The reason I would recommend this lamp versus others on the market is the light provided in this lamp is a full spectrum light, its just like painting under the sun so you will get true color.
What: OLFA Saw Blades KB4-NS/3 Model 9169
Sold By: Amazon
Price: $4.67
Submitted by: Galahad
A small blade attachment for your exsisting hobby knife handles that is simular to the razro saws. Easier to fit into tighter places then a razor saw.
What: OLFA Plastic Laminate Cutter Heavy Duty P-800 Model 5012
Sold By: Amazon
Price: $8.48
Submitted By: Galahad
A tool used to cut plasti-card for modeling. Combo this with a medal edged ruler to ensure deep and straight cuts.
i'm going to try it now.
