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Building/Painting Marines. Leave bolters off?

6023 Views 17 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Nordicus
Just got back into 40k after over a decade away from TT(fluff is still my home!), and have now got some Blood Angels on the go again. Being quite a bit younger last time round, I never really painted that much beyond a spray of Blood Angel Red and then painting the bolters and others quickly.

Now though, I really want to put a lot of effort into painting them. Hell, I've half started again just to paint. With the marines though, it seems like it's going to be a lot of effort and quite tricky to paint the chest plates, if the bolters are already glued on as well. Does anyone else leave the bolters off to paint the marines first? If so, do you then paint the bolters before gluing them on or after?

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I always assemble my miniatures as much as I can, without hindering myself to any details. In the case of a marine, I would leave the bolter off, as that hinders me from painting the chestplate with any real detail.

Some would argue "Why would you want to paint something that is hidden behind a gun?". I always say that it's not about what others see, but what I see myself, when looking at it. And I would always notice that unpainted area behind the gun, that I can see when looking from the right angle.

I would leave the bolter off, paint it and put it on afterwards :)
This. Exactly. All of my marines have painted chest plates and arms are the last thing to go onto them. If you are ok with it however don't let that stop you from doing it the way you want to.
What I thought then. Is it not as a little tricky putting the whole arm assembly on once glued together? Thing I'm most worried about now is gluing the pieces together, then when trying to attach them on, they're slightly out of place.
if you leave the shoulder pads off and paint them separately (which is what i do) then when it comes time to mount the arms on the model you can cover a lot of the imperfections using the shoulderpads. use Blu Tack to dry fit the pieces and when glueing the bolters leave the arms in the position you want them to be and glue the bolter. I only glue the arm that has the pistol grip (unless i'm doing a conversion) this allows both arms to be free and moveable until i find the best placement for them on the model.
for shoulder pads i use either tooth picks or bamboo skewer and cut them into 3 inch lengths a=then ball up a small wad of blutack and squeeze it around the back. this also helps mask the plastic so theres no need to scrape the paint off when done. this is a pretty good representation of how to do it.

This is typically how i hold my weapons and arms when painting them

Marines themselves are put up like so. you'll notice one arm is glued on as a reference but it doesn't interfere with working on any of the details.

If i have a specific weapon loadout that i want to keep then i ten to stick all the pieces onto the same cork piece. makes painting the whole model cohesively work a bit better.
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I admit I do take it alot further than most. Following kreugers steps is more than enough to.get good results
I'll probably be doing it your way actually. I really do want to put a lot of time and detail into this army. Is that a toothpick on the gravgun and how's it held there?

Cheers for all the responses though guys! Exciting times getting back into TT after all this time, so questions everywhere!!!!
it is indeed a toothpick held there by sheer will (just pushed it in really hard) bedum tsssss. but a paperclip with a dollop of superglue actually works better. youve just got to touch up the barrel once the model is assembled.
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