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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Edit: Update and new pics are here http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1078871#post1078871

Two friends and I have just gotten our first board to a stage where we can use it for games (and played 3 games of Gorkamorka on it yesterday).

Firstly the board itself. It is a 6' * 4' piece of MDF (my friend has big walk in cupboards enough to store several of these). To make a desert effect beyond just textured paint I cut various shapes usually about 3" * 3" out of 0.5mm plastic card and glued them onto the board. This did take me an entire day while my friends finished a lot of the other stuff. The board was then painted with textured paint made from B&Q interior wall paint mixed with varying grains of sand. The board took two coats of this and was then drybrushed up. We may drybrush again and also wash the cracks slightly to make them pop a bit more.








To make the rock pillars we used 9.5mm plasterboard, cutting little bits and stacking them up. We then painted them with the same mix used for the board






To make the hills my friend stumbled upon a good technique by accident. They are made form extruded polystyrene (the stuff that does not crumble). When cutting with the hot wire tool (foam factory thing) the wire was bending too much and cutting straight was awkward so my friend started sawing with it. This made the cool slope edge effect. The hills were then plated and painted like the board.









The hut I made a while ago (you can just see it in the background), I will try and get a better pic of that. We are still making scenery and what is on the board ia bout half of what we have (and not far from being finished). There are some hills with real cactus in them and a larger building. There are also some ruins which are just plasterboard bases with plasterboard ruin walls all painted in textured paint.



 

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This is actually pretty awesome. I've been trying to come up with a way to add some texture and visual interest to some of the tables at the local store while maintaining their ease of storage (i.e., they're all basically flat and feature separate modular terrain). I may have to swipe this for the desert tables when I refurbish our worn-down boards in a week or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you,

Storing it flat and having the surface still be flat for models to balance well etc was something we wanted for any boards. We may even double side them as they are laid on some towels on top of the table, meaning the under side would not get damaged.



Necromunda / Cityscape will be the other side of this one, although not with the same cracked plating, then maybe Man O War / Seascape and Space Hulk / Starscape on a second board. My friend lives real close to a timber merchant so getting the 6 * 4 back to his house whilst a tight squeeze is not too much grief.

The paint I should have said, from B&Q, is the equivalent of Hope Depot (I think). We used tester pots of paint, the ones you get to put a little patch on your wall to see if you like the colour. We mixed 4:1 Chocolate Milkshake and some red I forget the name of, then a dash of a gray which was about the same colour as GW chadron granite (although again interior wall paint). It is then drybrushed using a colour called "Bumble" although we will likely give it another brush with that to bring it up and will give a slightly redder wash in the cracks. It was all B&Q own brand paint which is cheaper than Crown, Dulux etc. We ended up spending the same on testers as we would have with one tin of a single colour, we got less paint but a variety of colours for the highlights/shading and we got the colours we wanted and we had enough to do two full coats.

You could use serial packet card or something as well for the plated surface but I wanted it to be quite solid and not have dogeared edges coming up so went for the 0.5mm plastic.

The board itself is 18mm MDF, we looked at OSB as well but it flexed too much under its own weight, the MDF is really solid. If you are doing modular pieces that go on a solid table (instead of propped up by a 3'*3' table with the board over hanging like ours) then that is less of an issue though.

We wanted to get our game in though last weekend and it was ready to use :)
 

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Nice work there, my desert mesa board looks very much like your hills - the same reason as you ended up like that! the foam cutter has no rigidity at all so you get that nice effect.

Did you also find that the fumes from that kind of insulation are particularly horrible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes,

The fumes were pretty bad, my friend who was cutting it was pretty light headed for the rest of the day. We will take extra precautions when cutting it next time.
 

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To anyone who cuts this stuff with a hot cutter I would highly recomend doing it outside, I felt quite sick after half an hour of cutting this stuff.

Nice work there tho, have some rep :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cheers for the comments are rep all.

I think it will get another lick of paint, a wash in the cracks and another drybrush to make it pop. I will put up more pics as we add to it, oh and the cactus planter hills are incoming, there are some dirty diggas camping near them that need a stomping (our campaign is forming a real good narrative).
 

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For the Necromunda board, I recommend fiberglass window screening for texture.
Glue long thin strips of plasticard over it to break it up and make it more interesting, then paint black and drybrush with metallics (lightly so it still looks grimy).
It's easy, inexpensive, fast and best of all looks good. I used this technique when I built a forge world board for an Inquisitor game some years ago and it creates a really nice metal-plate texture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That is an interesting idea Anarkitty.

Where we may become stuck though is the board may be used for things other than Necromunda, 40k urban board, epic board and even Warmachine holy Cryx everything is dead board or Infinty. It may get some simple treatment with texture paint, grey.

We can then go to town on the terrain pieces and make them really stand out. It is a bit different to the desert where the main feature was, the desert.

I do have a 3m * 0.5m roll of wire mesh which I had planned on using for the walkways etc, that and tread-plate textured plastic card. Scenery will go on hold for a couple of weeks though until I get my Cryx, Spyrers and some Dark Eldar done.

Next time I am out at my friends (an hour away so cannot just pop round) I will take some more photos. My camera is not the greatest but it does allow for a bit of lighting stuff. I will hopefully also be able to give it another drybrush and maybe a slight wash in the cracks. Might be able to get a photo of it outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
A bit later than I had hoped but here are some better pictures of the board. It has now hosted 5 games of Gorkamorka and 1 game of Warmachine. Regarding the industrial board it is still to be made but terrain building on the modular Necromunda scenery has begun.

The more brightly painted and prominently featured Ork Morker Mob I cannot take credit for. They are done by Ineptmule @ forums.somethingawful. Mine are the basically painted Goff Morkers who have no time or inclination for such nonsense.

The slightly painted Diggas (Necromunda Ratskins and Goliaths) belong to our third player, the elusive Frobes. Once they are painted I will try and capture a photo of them in the wild as there is some interesting conversion work.

Now for the pictures. The light conditions varied throughout the day, the colours are more vivid later on under the living room lights but perhaps brighter under natural light:

The Buildings



The Board, 6' * 4' and the elusive Frobes, 6' * 1'



Ineptmules Da Wizzladz



Wizzladz complete crash fail



My Slaver, needs painting finished, custom Bolas



Two more cactus hills are incoming. For now the cacti reside on the window sill waiting for their chance to harm me when I place them on the board



The chase scenario, my Sixty-Six Shoota Krew after a swerve lost to SAMCRO (dirty diggas) despite attempts and evil terrain placement



The animated model wildlife

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks,

My friend whose house the board is at recently got a decent camera so I should be able to get better photos than my camera could manage. I still want to shade in the cracks a little bit to bring them out.
 

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Incredible looking board!! Some really great ideas. Love the use of the cacti fitted into the hills for scenery!!! Abslo-freakin'-lutely BRILLIANT!!!

+rep!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
iirc:

The board cost £20 (it is pretty thick, had to be, does not flex on overhang).
The plastic card was 0.5mm and cost ~£10 total
The paint was £6 although it needs a touch up, drybrush and wash so £10 total.

Probably used about half a no more nails but I got that on sale for like £2

I think I got the plastic here:

http://www.stationroadbaseboards.co.uk/cart_plastic.htm

It may have gone up a couple of pence, but:

(1800 * 1200) / (220 * 325) = 30.21 sheets to cover the board with no gaps.

30.21 * £0.43 = £12.99

There were gaps though and not much wastage, we would only take a little off edges to make them slightly uneven and not a straight edge.

I may have bought 30 sheets as I probably did that calculation before, but I still have some left in my plasticard folder.
 

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iirc:

The board cost £20 (it is pretty thick, had to be, does not flex on overhang).
The plastic card was 0.5mm and cost ~£10 total
The paint was £6 although it needs a touch up, drybrush and wash so £10 total.

Probably used about half a no more nails but I got that on sale for like £2

I think I got the plastic here:

http://www.stationroadbaseboards.co.uk/cart_plastic.htm

It may have gone up a couple of pence, but:

(1800 * 1200) / (220 * 325) = 30.21 sheets to cover the board with no gaps.

30.21 * £0.43 = £12.99

There were gaps though and not much wastage, we would only take a little off edges to make them slightly uneven and not a straight edge.

I may have bought 30 sheets as I probably did that calculation before, but I still have some left in my plasticard folder.
I have to wonder if 110lb cardstock (i.e. business card wieght) would have worked as well, but at a MUCH lower price point for the look you got. It might be worth testing for anyone else who wants to replicate the look. (Obviously the cracks won't be quite as deep, but they should still be noticeable.)
 
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