This post is somewhat long, I just started typing and came up with the following.. hope you enjoy
ARMOR PART 1
Now that I have a small captive audience, which I don't mind since i have never attempted an army journal before, lets get down to it. I am in the process of painting my 2 Broadsides and it's a good time to go through how I do my armor and exosuits.
When I do an army, I dont really go all out for Golden Demon quality. I do some very good work I feel when I can focus on a display model for a while, but an army I put myself in a different mindset to get the army done and on the table. This may cause me to shortcut some stuff, not layer as much as I would, but I still want a very presentable army on the table so eventually I feel it all comes out in the end. So I wanted to throw that out as my processes on this diary will not be earthshattering or very complex. When it comes to a full army, I try to keep it simple, stay with the basics but still add flair here and there when I am able.
So onto my Broadsides...
I get the model built obviously, these were the Forgeworld Broadsides that I got in a great deal (and they are an amazingly beefy model compared to other suits) so they were fun to build. I used regular superglue. I cannot emphasize enough to use the right glue for the right job when it comes to building. I use superglue (usually a thick consistency glue when i can get the kind i like) for resin, metal, and metal on plastic joins. I use Testors plastic model glue for any full plastic to plastic joins. For those that may read this that are just starting out, using superglue on plastics will make the join weak. I have actually received models from people in trade that they used superglue to build and I literally pulled them apart, worked a knife to remove the superglue and rebuilt them with plastic glue. Plastic glue will make its own chemical reaction to heat up the plastic and actually melt it back together, making it into basically one piece. There is my modelling 101 tip of the day
After building the models, I use a coat of black gesso (thanks weetoysoldiers for the tip) and modelmasters flat black acrylic paint in a 4:1 ratio and brush basecoat the models. I used to use sprays, but I have never been able to find one that doesn't eventually fill in some of the detail or have side effects during the drying stage, so I just brush everything now and i'm very happy to do so.
Once blacked, I used a good coating of Scurf Green (Vallejo Game Color) to go over all the parts of the model that will be green
I'm not looking to be perfect on this coat as I go over the armor seams and separations with black if i need to afterwards.
Once that was done on both models, I am using Goblin Green (Vallejo Game Color) to be basically my main color. I am going to go over almost all of the Scurf Green to do two things. One, allow it to be a deeper green going over a darker one, and also to allow the Goblin Green to be a bit darker shade. I do leave some of the Scurf Green in the extreme low areas of the model to give it a dark green darkness that the Goblin Green main color will highlight. This coat I am way more careful on to not go over any armor seams or separations and leave the black lines underneath. If i do accidentally, I will very very carefully go over trouble spots with black again.
I do one to two highlights on the main coat to finish the green armor and move onto the bone parts of the armor. I have mixed in a lot of Privateer Press paints (them who makes Warmachine) to my collection and I am using them on this army to test thier worth (so far so good). I will warn anyone using them that they are very thick, but even thinned a little bit they provide pretty good coverage even with problem colors such as reds, yellows, and bone colors. My highlight color is Cryx Green from the P3 line.
I would normally (when working on a single model) would do a halfway blend between the Goblin Green and the Cryx Green, but when doing an army, I try to do just the next color up, making the highlights somewhat transparent so they aren't completely stark and don't take away from the basecolor. I highlight at the tops and peaks of the armor segments and where light would hit other areas. Trying to keep the lines thin and pretty clean. Once i go with the first highlight lightly everywhere I want it, I go over it again with the same color at the extreme points to just give those points a bit more brightness than the lower highlights.
I then clean up the green areas for the last time with some black or the other green colors and give it one last look over. Once happy, I'm off to start the bone color segments. Which will be the next post hopefully tomorrow night...