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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-16-07, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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This post is somewhat long, I just started typing and came up with the following.. hope you enjoy


Now that I have a small captive audience, which I don't mind since i have never attempted an army journal before, lets get down to it. I am in the process of painting my 2 Broadsides and it's a good time to go through how I do my armor and exosuits.

When I do an army, I dont really go all out for Golden Demon quality. I do some very good work I feel when I can focus on a display model for a while, but an army I put myself in a different mindset to get the army done and on the table. This may cause me to shortcut some stuff, not layer as much as I would, but I still want a very presentable army on the table so eventually I feel it all comes out in the end. So I wanted to throw that out as my processes on this diary will not be earthshattering or very complex. When it comes to a full army, I try to keep it simple, stay with the basics but still add flair here and there when I am able.

So onto my Broadsides...

I get the model built obviously, these were the Forgeworld Broadsides that I got in a great deal (and they are an amazingly beefy model compared to other suits) so they were fun to build. I used regular superglue. I cannot emphasize enough to use the right glue for the right job when it comes to building. I use superglue (usually a thick consistency glue when i can get the kind i like) for resin, metal, and metal on plastic joins. I use Testors plastic model glue for any full plastic to plastic joins. For those that may read this that are just starting out, using superglue on plastics will make the join weak. I have actually received models from people in trade that they used superglue to build and I literally pulled them apart, worked a knife to remove the superglue and rebuilt them with plastic glue. Plastic glue will make its own chemical reaction to heat up the plastic and actually melt it back together, making it into basically one piece. There is my modelling 101 tip of the day

After building the models, I use a coat of black gesso (thanks weetoysoldiers for the tip) and modelmasters flat black acrylic paint in a 4:1 ratio and brush basecoat the models. I used to use sprays, but I have never been able to find one that doesn't eventually fill in some of the detail or have side effects during the drying stage, so I just brush everything now and i'm very happy to do so.

Once blacked, I used a good coating of Scurf Green (Vallejo Game Color) to go over all the parts of the model that will be green

I'm not looking to be perfect on this coat as I go over the armor seams and separations with black if i need to afterwards.

Once that was done on both models, I am using Goblin Green (Vallejo Game Color) to be basically my main color. I am going to go over almost all of the Scurf Green to do two things. One, allow it to be a deeper green going over a darker one, and also to allow the Goblin Green to be a bit darker shade. I do leave some of the Scurf Green in the extreme low areas of the model to give it a dark green darkness that the Goblin Green main color will highlight. This coat I am way more careful on to not go over any armor seams or separations and leave the black lines underneath. If i do accidentally, I will very very carefully go over trouble spots with black again.

I do one to two highlights on the main coat to finish the green armor and move onto the bone parts of the armor. I have mixed in a lot of Privateer Press paints (them who makes Warmachine) to my collection and I am using them on this army to test thier worth (so far so good). I will warn anyone using them that they are very thick, but even thinned a little bit they provide pretty good coverage even with problem colors such as reds, yellows, and bone colors. My highlight color is Cryx Green from the P3 line.

I would normally (when working on a single model) would do a halfway blend between the Goblin Green and the Cryx Green, but when doing an army, I try to do just the next color up, making the highlights somewhat transparent so they aren't completely stark and don't take away from the basecolor. I highlight at the tops and peaks of the armor segments and where light would hit other areas. Trying to keep the lines thin and pretty clean. Once i go with the first highlight lightly everywhere I want it, I go over it again with the same color at the extreme points to just give those points a bit more brightness than the lower highlights.

I then clean up the green areas for the last time with some black or the other green colors and give it one last look over. Once happy, I'm off to start the bone color segments. Which will be the next post hopefully tomorrow night...
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-16-07, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, got the second part of the armor/exosuit done.

I realized after doing my first color test suit that I had done this before and forgot about it. Since it was more of an organic army I had forgotten...

Its slightly different, but same basic concept... anyway I digress...

First thing to do is give yourself a good base color for bone. Bone on black almost never works unless you put it on thick. Your basecolor will also tell you what tone your bone color will be. If you use a brown, you're bone color will be much more organic looking. If you use a grey, you can get a much more smooth, industrial color thats a bit more subtle than a brown/bone. I chose to use a grey to give the bone color the more industrial look since i'm not doing tyranids or other organics. For all of these bone colors and highlights I'm using the P3 paint series starting with Cryx Bane Highlight for the grey.

This is done the same way that I applied the Goblin Green. Good coverage with care applied when around the armor seams and separations. This gives you a natural blacklining which for Tau I think looks great for the right colors.

Next I apply the main color. P3 color Jack Bone is used. This color will completely cover the grey that i used as the undercoat. The grey is basically a painted over basecolor to give you good coverage for main coat and give you the tone you want as I explained. So after this coat, we should see no grey left over.

Once this has been done, do any clean up with the seams and separations and then I have two highlights to do. One is with the P3 color Menoth White Base.

This highlight is applied strongly on the edges to start my "light reflection" highlight and give me enough room to apply my last highlight. My last highlight is done with Menoth White Highlight. This is done carefully along some of the edges to reflect the last of the "light" on the model.

It is a bit subtle on the last pic, which is why I took a bit closer shot to show it on his center armor section.

Now that this is done, this pretty much settles my armor colors and I am off to start weapons and details.... coming soon...
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-07, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Guns will be short and sweet. I chose a grey for the weaponry of my Tau and went with Vallejo's Sombre Grey as it gave a bluish grey that was sort of industrial looking. So it went on the missle pods and railguns taking very care to not get in the separation lines to give a natural blackline. I left a few parts of the railguns black for effect and to prevent monotony on the such a large weapon...

After that was done, I took P3 color Cryx Bane Highlight grey and touched up both the black and the Sombre Grey with a highlight. The highlight grey is more natural grey than the blue grey of the Sombre but I liked it visually and it also gave a slight weathered look to the weapons. The weapons overall i usually keep simple on all of my armies as I kind of loathe painting weapons in general

I also took this time to clean up some of the final areas with black to get ready for the small details.

Next up we're going to hit the last color I use besides my small detail colors and that should all come up in the next post. Thanks to those that have browsed or followed along, this has been fun for me so far 8)
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-07, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Last post for the Broadsides! Yay

First I started with the metals, there is so little metals on a Crisis Suit/Broadside that I just went ahead and did one solid coat. I used P3 color Cryx Gold and it has a great metal effect that it highlights itself very well to the light. Better than GW or Vallejo so I just did one good solid coat where I needed it...

Lastly, it was up to details. I did red on the tops of the smart missles, this was done with Sanguine Base and Sanguine Highlight from P3 and Blood Red for the final highlight...

And the sensors on the helmet the same was done...

and the shoulder insignia, which i just did Menoth Base White and Menoth White Highlight

And lastly, the finished product. The base is not final, I'm still working out a scheme for the final base which I always do after the models are all done, so it'll be a while...

With that done, I believe it's time for my Stealth Suits to get painted. I have something special planned for them I believe, hopefully it'll come out well... you'll see as I do Thanks again, I'll update once there is more progress
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-07, 02:46 PM
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Very nice. Definitely going to keep an eye on this thread.

one thing I want is the ability to split my fire everywhere, it makes no sense that a squad of 10 guard or marines or whatever all have to fire at 1 target with everything, is the guy with the lascannon not smart enough to realize maybe he would be better off firing at the massive tank looming overhead instead of the little man no bigger than a squat running at him, or is that far too complex for the 10yr olds?

My Thousand Sons Project Log
My Warriors of Chaos Project Log
My Cryx Project Log
My Necron Project Log
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-10-07, 08:37 AM
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-16-07, 02:29 PM
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Great stuff... you have my attention, now.

'At two minutes to eleven, opposite the South African Brigade, at the eastern-most point reached by the British armies, a German machine-gunner, after firing off a belt without pause, was seen to stand up beside his weapon, take off his helmet, bow, and then slowly walk to the rear.' -John Buchan

Originally Posted by Elchimpster View Post
I can't help but think that every time something is proven, a little bit of the magic of the world dies.
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