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post #1 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-14-11, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Default My new GK miniatures.

Hey folks

I'd thought I'd post a few shots I took today of my new GK models. I have been a demonhunter player since 2005, and have taken a very long brake from 40k since 2006 to focus more on warmachine. The release of the new codex got me excited to pick this army up again though. Sad thing is, that I can no longer use my inducted IG troops (painted in red/white/black). And it's not like I had that many GK units to begin with, so the army got a soft reboot.


The GK boxed set is awesome! It includes so many weapon options, that I decided to magnetise nearly the entire army. Every model now has the possibility to take different weapons through the use of 2mm diameter magnets (at least, as many as each boxed set allows). This required some minor conversions (such as making the two handed weapons into one handed pieces, but nothing too drastic.


Anyway, the first squad is always the testsquad, and that got finished for 95% today (some minor things like some text on the purity seals etc still remains, but that's no biggy). So I took a few pictures and will show you the results:









Last edited by elmir; 04-23-11 at 12:37 PM.
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post #2 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-14-11, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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I hope you like them!
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post #3 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-14-11, 09:21 PM
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Very kool. How did you do the paintjob on the force weapons?

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post #4 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-14-11, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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The forceswords are basically split in two halves. One half is blended from a dark blue to a light blue from the top to the bottom, the other half from the bottom to the top.

The whole sword is given a basecoat of vallejo model color dark prussian blue.

Then I mix 50/50 dark prussian blue and vallejo model color medium blue. This is applied to 4/5th of the edge that you are blending, leaving only a little of the dark basecoat showing.

I then aply pure medium blue (thinned down however) up from the 3/5 part upward.

Then a mix of medium blue and vallejo game color electric blue is made. This is used even more towards the end.

Then some thinned down electric blue on it's own.

Then the tips or base of the swords are done using vallejo game color sky blue. At that point, I use the skyblue to give the edges of the blades a sharp highlight by running the side of my brush along the edges. I do the same for the centre line of the blade. Be carefull to not have too much paint on your bush there, or it'll leave smudges and blobs. It's not like it should be a drybrush, but it's getting pretty close to that point.

Anyway, once that highlight is aplied, I use vallejo game color blue ink and water it down to about 4 parts water, one part ink (so still relatively rich on pigment for an ink/glaze). I then aply 2-3 coats of this glaze along the blade. After the glaze has been aplied, I clean out my brush and draw the ink away from the sharpest highlights need the tip or base of the sword (you don't want the ink to pool up in there).

After the glazes are aplied, I rehighlight the edges of the sword again with sky blue. I also run a few stripes along the blade to simulate the force effect. I'm not a big fan of the lightning effect (mostly because I cannot excecute it properly... :-p)

For the final highlight, a thinned down vallejo model color glossy white coat is aplied to the very top and base of the blade (depending on the way you blended it, obviously). This should be very minimal however.

Hope that helps!
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post #5 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-14-11, 10:18 PM
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You almost redeemed the poor choices of the design team.

In all seriousness, those are some jaw-dropping paintjobs. Nicely done.
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post #6 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-14-11, 10:48 PM
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very nice models and seeing how I'm waiting for some grey knights to show up and use Vallejo paints myself I'll defo. be using this technique. +rep

"By the Grace of the Emperor we live, By his will he shatter the Horrors of the Warp, with our blades we will cleanse the galaxy!" - Lord Commander Dominicus of the Saints of Absolution.

"The Emperor is the god of all Mankind, and we, are his lightning bolts that strike down his enemies" - from the book of Absolution
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post #7 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-15-11, 12:06 AM
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*sob sob* wish i could paint like this *sob sob* great models
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post #8 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-15-11, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
*sob sob* wish i could paint like this *sob sob* great models
Practice, and you will learn, young one.

I can honestly say that is an amazing job you did. Keep up the good work!


If someone lacks intelligence, than he is not stupid, because one cannot be stupid without intelligence.

If someone reverts to having to complain about your grammar, then you already won.
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post #9 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-16-11, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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I have also writting a small tutorial on the magnetisation proces and the benefits that this proces brings. In case you were wondering about doing any kind of magnetisation proces, this can help as a guide.


1. Finding the right size magnets.
First of all, I started looking for suitable magnets. They'd have to be strong, so they'd have to be neodymium magnets (aka rare earth magnets).


I tried various sizes, but 2 mm ones seemed like the best option allround. They allowed for enough weight carry capacity (up to 130gr according to the manufacturer), while being small enough to fit into the smallest bits (such as the hands).Even with the 2mm diameter however, it would still be a VERY close call on some bits, so you couldn't afford to be off centre. More on this later.


I got them at this retailer: http://www.supermagnete.be/eng/index.php
Their prices were reasonable and the transport options weren't too bad. I'm sure there are other suitable retailers however, for those not living in the European Union.
The magnets themselves are 2 mm in diameter and have a depth of 1 mm. So to match this, a quick trip to local hardware store got me a 2 mm drillbit.



2. Requirements: what will you need.

It's always a good idea to think ahead and have a little list of what you are going to need. So here's a list of what you'll need if you plan to do ANY magnetisation project:
- A pinvice with suitable drills (I have 0,5mm, 2mm,3 mm and 4mm bits for this project).
- A toothpick.
- Superglue and some superglue accelerator.
- A sharp hobby knife.
- Greenstuff/plastic putty
- A crapload of magnets.

The pinvice is a pretty obvious one. You'll need to be drilling a ton of holes into your miniatures. The toothpick might be less obvious though. You'll be working with magnets and then tend to... you know... stick to metal tools. Having a toothpick at hand means that you'll have a “tool” that will not be affected by the magnets and that'll come in handy at some point, trust me on this...

Superglue is pretty obvious as well, superglue accelerator will be extremely handy to get the job done faster. Remember to work in a well ventilated area with this stuff, or you'll be high as a kite in no time!! The rest are just generic things that are always handy when working on miniatures. Now lets get on with it!
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post #10 of 159 (permalink) Old 04-16-11, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Part 3: Drilling holes in the body.

A good first start point, is a single body. This means that the legs will be glued on the base and that the torso (when the two halves are glued together) will be glued to the legs as well. You could magnetise these as well, but I see no point to this.

The heads can be glued on, but can also be magnetised. For the powerarmoured knights, I glued the heads on for 4 out of 5 bodies. The fifth one would get an interchangeble head (helmet option for a regular trooper, or a bare head to be a justicar).

Let that glue cure (plastic glue take a while to set, and you'll be manhandeling these models when you have at them with your pinning vice).

If you are going to magnetise your army, here's what I suggest:

BE CAREFULL WHEN YOU DRILL HOLES. THEY HAVE TO BE CENTERED!

One thing that can potientially go wrong, is to get the holes for your magnets off center. The magnets will stick to eachother, but the pose you'll end up with, is going to be all screwed up.

To increase your chances of drilling the hole right in the centre, you are going to have to work with pilot holes. These pilots holes will make sure that even the larger drills will stay centered.

Start by taking off all the moldlines and getting a nice flat surface for your shoulder sockets. Then, with your sharp craft knife, try and find the centre spot of the sockets, and make a tiny indentation in the centre.

Even when using the smallest drillbit you have, you will have a hard time staying on centre, and you can be A LOT more accurate for this with your craft knife. After this indentation has been made, get the smallest drill out that you have, and drill into the body. Use this indentation as a guilde for the drill. The body will need 3 (of 4, depending on wether or not you want interchangable heads) holes drilled into it. One in each shoulder, and one right above the “bulge” where the backpack is going to end up.



After you made these pilot holes, it's safe to have at them with the 2 mm drill. If you notice these aren't exactly on center, you can still do SOME correcting with your craft knife by making the whole slightly bigger towards the center.




Then drill the hole with the 2 mm drill. Don't make this hole to shallow, or your magnets will sit “over” the surface and the pose will just end up looking weird. Don't drill to deep though, you'll run the risk of drill straight through the miniature, because these drill will go through plastic like a hot knife through butter! This is what it should start looking like.





Now on to the next step: Adding the magnets.
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