Blackadder Attempts to build an Imperial Warmonger Titan - Page 2 - Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums
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post #11 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-10-17, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Neck:

The coupling being PVC is not compatible with styrene so I applied a veneer of 0.015 sheet styrene so parts and detail can be added.

http://i.imgur.com/ijcMkcJ.jpg


I then roughed in the cutout coordinates for the head to neck connection.

http://i.imgur.com/fI28OOL.jpg


The large round cylinder just below the helmet where the ears would be I am assuming is the neck/skull joint to allow the head to tilt down. Likewise the flexible conduits on either side of the chin.

Why not call these by their anatomical names. The so-called "Command Bridge is very skull-like.
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post #12 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-10-17, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Jaw Cut Out:

Using my vibrating saw it was a simple matter cutting out the jaw recess in the coupling.

http://i.imgur.com/V33rgGl.jpg


The neck is now ready for shaping and detailing.

http://i.imgur.com/KoJVjmG.jpg


Incidentally my Chicago Electric vibrating saw is a must have tool for hobbying;

Variable Speed Oscillating Multi-Tool

This cut would be really difficult with virtually any other device other than a hand tool and my $25 dollar saw was a tremendous time saver. It took about five minutes to make this cut including the blade swap.
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Last edited by Blackadder; 03-11-17 at 02:55 PM.
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post #13 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-12-17, 09:39 PM
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I've been reading along with your projects but I haven't commented in a while.

Your work is stunning as usual. =)

Out of curiosity, how much time a week can you usually dedicate to your fabrication projects?

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post #14 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-13-17, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Maybe an hour or two a day depending on how much inspiration I can muster. Mainly I keep the projects in the back of my mind whilst juggling the forces of my current vocation. divorcing the creative processes from the workaday travails keeps me keen and is the perfect counterpoint to earning a living.

"It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."
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post #15 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-14-17, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Snow Bound:

So to while away the weather front I did some work on the neck which I have to admit is coming out better than expected. I sheathed the coupling on 0.040 thousandths styrene to three layers and then proceeded to bevel the rear edges 45 as in the drawing.
http://i.imgur.com/Z9duybo.jpg


As you can see below there is quite a bit of cutting to get the 45 bevel in the front edge ............


http://i.imgur.com/gZQcNh6.jpg



but my 'Farmers file' was up to the task.

http://i.imgur.com/BTujlxG.jpg


The forward bevel needs to be refined but is okay for the moment while I make the inner neck mechanism so the head can be tilted down. My previous Warlord has this capability but the mechanism is very clunky and I am hoping to refine it on this model.

http://i.imgur.com/TbMVdfC.jpg


Finally I found this collar that will work very well in the scheme I have in mind for the side to side movement of the head and fits into the Emperor design quite well.

http://i.imgur.com/Ofba1Op.jpg


Can anyone guess the source of this wondeous bit of sculpting?
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post #16 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-16-17, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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2D vs 3D

I'm getting way ahead of myself with this head assembly so I put the brakes on to pitch an update. After scraping my initial idea of how the head assembly can tip forward on the neck I came up with this solution which will give me a lot more cockpit room for the crew. There also is a poetic license taken by the artist who drew the front and side reliefs of the Command Bridge. The huge ear discs that contain the head tilting mechanism cannot function as drawn and are of different sizes in the drawing. Never mind though, I have a solution.

I'll start with cutting the forward neck ring to allow the discs to mount flat to the sides of the neck.

http://i.imgur.com/mvwGHMu.jpg


Carving out an outer race for the gimbal head mount pad and gluing on the gimbal bases is what is shown here. The two 0.040th inch discs are 71 MM apart and 56 MM in diameter.

http://i.imgur.com/gkvcxbH.jpg


The bridge truss maintains the distance and keeps the gimbals square to each other and stabilizes the bases

http://i.imgur.com/uFbVKve.jpg


Bottom view showing the forward ring carved out to accommodate the gimbal bases.

http://i.imgur.com/ZpFupBN.jpg


Next, the manufacture of the gimbals mounts. (The area left black in the 2D drawing.)
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post #17 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-17-17, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Gimbals:

Or Trunnions whatever, These truncated discs will support the head on the neck to allow it to look down in a purely theatrical way as a downward pointing camera would be just as effective but the menace of this skull staring down at it's victim is too good to pass up.

http://i.imgur.com/TxBpE0G.jpg


Above; the disc is a simple truncated construct featuring two circles 45,0 and 54,0 MM separated by 2,0 MM by 4,8 MM styrene spacers.

http://i.imgur.com/fIfj5Yf.jpg


Unfortunately I got the angle wrong so I have to re-sheath the bevel but that's not a big deal.

http://i.imgur.com/J7JtoOQ.jpg


Tomorrow I hope to be working on the cockpit.
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post #18 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-17-17, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackadder View Post
Neck:

The coupling being PVC is not compatible with styrene so I applied a veneer of 0.015 sheet styrene so parts and detail can be added.

http://i.imgur.com/ijcMkcJ.jpg
Question for ya Adder. If the PVC and Styrene aren't compatible with each other, what do you use to a fix the styrene to the PVC? Super glue?

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post #19 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-18-17, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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The Visor:

Allowing for the helmet I mounted the gimbals with extended visor mounts made of 0.015 thousandths sheet styrene. As I don't really have a plan for the cockpit, chin or gullet piece all this is subject to change but at least now I understand how the cheek pieces work with the gimbals.

http://i.imgur.com/dybKoJX.jpg


I suppose the best thing is to cut the helmet to see where it falls in relation to the ears (gimbals) and the amount of clearance required to allow the head to lower and raise.

http://i.imgur.com/LEecGev.jpg


Somehow I managed to guess right which moving part eclipses which and for that I am grateful.

http://i.imgur.com/a8ra21q.jpg


Later on this evening I'll cut the helmet but I need to relax a bit after this thoroughly draining exercise in design. Martini Time!!!!!
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post #20 of 381 (permalink) Old 03-22-17, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Helmet:

My initial thought was to use a suitably shaped bottle to form the helmet but after experimentation I found that was unsatisfactory for my obsessive compulsive mindset. I opted instead for building up the helmet out of stratified layers of styrene and cutting the helmet out of the resulting block in much the same manner as I did for my Warlord Titan

http://i.imgur.com/gxEB51B.jpg


This also relieves me of the necessity of finding a suitable glue for mating the different sources of plastic......

http://i.imgur.com/uAIDHK3l.jpg


It's bad enough that I had already go through the identical thought processes in making my Warlord but to have not learned for my previous effort defies logic.
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