Blackadder's Refurbishment of Derelict FW Resin Baneblades Thread................ - Page 5 - Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums
Project Logs This forum is dedicated to discussing and displaying your works in progress.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #41 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-29-14, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Blackadder's Avatar
Blackadder's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,687
Reputation: 76
Default

Saving the Sentinels Part 2:

Next center drill the hip block with first a pilot hole (Center foreground of the image below) and then your 1/8 inch drill bit.

I drilled from both ends into the hip block but then drilled all the way through to align the shaft holes.....

http://i.imgur.com/yIdtqL4.jpg


On the right side of the photo above note the white styrene tube:

Insert your 1/8 inch styrene tube through the hip block so the axle protrudes far enough to engage the hip of the legs.

Now I don't want to repeat this repair so I am reinforcing the styrene tube with a 1,5 MM brass tube insert......

http://i.imgur.com/Rmi84kp.jpg


Below we see the three Sentinel bodies strung out on the brass reinforced styrene tubes ready to be cut to the proper length.

http://i.imgur.com/IgXOeqg.jpg


Below we see the three repaired hips; the left foreground legs not installed to show the reinforced shaft.

http://i.imgur.com/YoNsK2T.jpg


And finally the three derelicts assembled with new much stronger leg attachments.

http://i.imgur.com/eLTYGdq.jpg


Next, repairing the ball socket ankle joint........

"It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

Last edited by Blackadder; 05-29-14 at 02:38 PM.
Blackadder is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #42 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-29-14, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Blackadder's Avatar
Blackadder's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,687
Reputation: 76
Default

Saving the Sentinels Part 3:

Since the ankle is so much thinner I went to a 3/32 inch (2,25 MM) styrene tube to reinforce the break. Again I will insert a brass rod to increase the strength of the joint.

http://i.imgur.com/xOzi0lx.jpg


drilling the hole in the ankle requires a bit of care as the short block is all you have to work with; drill too far and the shank strut will be weakened.

Insert the 3/32 styrene tube and the reinforcing wire into both the ball and the leg.

http://i.imgur.com/viRPai4.jpg


BTW I haven't glued anything yet as I want the option to pose the Sentinels on their respective bases before I do the finish gluing.

http://i.imgur.com/CqP41PP.jpg


So here we have the restored leg stronger than ever with hardly a hint of the damage sustained.

http://i.imgur.com/cuC77oj.jpg


And the reassembled model ready to be posed on its base.

http://i.imgur.com/RQIx4iW.jpg

"It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."
Blackadder is offline  
post #43 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-02-16, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Blackadder's Avatar
Blackadder's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,687
Reputation: 76
Default

Aligning the Bogies (Road Wheels)

Aligning the bogies after they are trimmed of moulding errors and plugs is easy if you use a strip of 6.3 MM (1/4 inch) styrene stripping Evergreen product #169 is what I am using here but any quarter inch styrene will do. I use the 2MM thick strips becasue they stand on edge hands free and they are less prone to distortion. Some of the center bogie grooves need moulding flash removed with an Xacto knife so the strip seats deep in the groove.

http://i.imgur.com/NFwMFOS.jpg


I also use the strip as a straight edge to keep the bogies at the same height so the tread touches the rounded wheel bottom for a neat looking track assembly seen here end on...........

http://i.imgur.com/NFZ8UZf.jpg


And here in profile.

http://i.imgur.com/Asc5ruD.jpg


Since the bases of the road wheels (bogies) are of different thicknesses it is advisable to dry assemble and number the wheels and their respective positions before gluing them in place and also gluing the two end wheels first, then the center, then the rest of the road wheels subsequently so the run true to the fenders of the track well. Flexing the center guide strip down aids in centering the drive wheel.

Next the front idler and the floating guide bogie.

"It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."
Blackadder is offline  
 
post #44 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-02-16, 10:02 PM
Closet Dictator
 
Old Man78's Avatar
Old Man78's Flag is: Ireland
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sector 7 G
Posts: 3,400
Reputation: 34
Default

Always a pleasure to watch you work, you have the patience of a saint

Old Man78 is offline  
post #45 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-03-16, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Blackadder's Avatar
Blackadder's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,687
Reputation: 76
Default

Thanks,

I spent the better part of Thursday cutting and grinding the track blocks so the match in length within a millimeter. To achieve this it is sometimes necessary to cut the block laterally on the bogie landings with a razor saw and sand the cuts flush and glue the segments back together thereby making the track block shorter by a fraction of a millimeter. On the blocks below I cut one in three places and one in seven places to achieve blocks the right length.

http://i.imgur.com/CcQlV0C.jpg


The reason for this is the track lengths are pretty much standard but for some reason the blocks the bogies mount on vary by as much as five millimeters about 7/32 of an inch which coincidentally is just about a track link width. FW, the blighters, in their wisdom sold spare track links to the novice builders so they would have a full track run. Well that's fine if you can run down to Ye Olde local FW shoppe and purchase a few links but for those of us on the 'States' side of the pond, we're talking about a month to get the parts plus exorbitant shipping charges. So my fix is to adjust the length of the block.

That done it comes time to glue on the bogies which I pretty much covered last post and so that brings us to the present where I am attaching the treads to the road wheels. I start with the front lower segment that goes around the idler wheel. You must be sure the tracks follow the surface of the wheel tightly as you will have little room for error making this track run fit exactly. I use my Dremel cutter to burnish the inner surface of the tread segment to get the tightest fit possible as seen in the image below.

http://i.imgur.com/LBJgIhM.jpg


I glued it in place and while it dries I wrote this article; Martini time. Skoal

"It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."
Blackadder is offline  
post #46 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-04-16, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Blackadder's Avatar
Blackadder's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,687
Reputation: 76
Default

Restoring Tracks:

Restoring these tracks was quite a chore. The end of the mount block was melted off for some reason and the road wheels had broken mount pads and struts particularly on the idlers and drive sprockets plus the mount blocks were two different lengths. I restored the melted end with A-1 two part epoxy, cut,sanded and reglued the drive end of the block that was too long and pinned the broken idler strut with a piece of brass rod.

The results seen below is about as near perfect I can get considering the overall damage

http://i.imgur.com/3AV8VRI.jpg


The bottom of the tread run shows not much gap between the segments.................

http://i.imgur.com/g1mGdRX.jpg


and the longitudinal run is straight and true.

http://i.imgur.com/lJb6BqK.jpg


The front end which is the most visible seems about as good as you can get from a new kit. all the damage will be hidden from view by the track walls and covers.

http://i.imgur.com/lfro6on.jpg

"It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."
Blackadder is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums > Hobby > Project Logs

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome