Blackadder's Refurbishment of Derelict FW Resin Baneblades Thread................ - Page 3 - Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-30-13, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Big Red Consigned to the Stripping Vat:

No not Laura Prepon but rather a basic Lucius Pattern Baneblade, complete this time and not that badly assembled except for the treads. The previous owner a minimalist to be sure painted his model in assuredly less than ten minutes and I'll bet none of his compatriots chided him for his monochromatic colour scheme but hey, Red is a colour and supposedly Gray is not.

Never the less its not in my nature to accept second best so a few weeks soaking in Simple Green should soften the paint and glue enough to allow disassembly.

http://i.imgur.com/UFwm1em.jpg


Goodness knows I have enough to keep me occupied rather than just waiting the requisite time for that eventuality..........

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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-31-14, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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Removing Paint From Derelicts:

I've come across some really tenacious paint on these to models obviously some brand of spray enamel. As the models are poorly assembled and the paint coat varying in thickness of application it is necessary to disassemble the tanks and strip the paint. Simple Green by itself made little progress on loosening the paint even after weeks of soaking other than turn the 'red' paint 'orange' so then I tried soaking for a week in mineral spirits which helped but still needed to be scrubbed with a wire brush where you run the risk of damaging the fine detail. Finally I tried warm dish washer detergent for a couple of days and that seemed to do the trick at least the paint came off with a light scrubbing.

http://i.imgur.com/6j5r276.jpg


So Simple Green for a week or so followed by a week in Mineral Spirits followed by a few days in Dish Washer detergent.

Interesting that the thinner the coat of spray paint the more difficult it is to remove.

Now to the building critique:

The orange Baneblade was fairly well assembled except for the treads and bogies so once the paint is removed from the hull a fine coat of gray primer is all that is required.

http://i.imgur.com/bt9Nf5C.jpg


Note the excessive gap on the far right of the photo tread under the front mud guard

Likewise the upper hull of the 'polar bear in a snowstorm camo'd' Mars Baneblade just needs the treads reassembled.

http://i.imgur.com/bniS33P.jpg


Note again the excessive gap in the tread on the right of the photo Sorry about the "Closeup".

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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-01-14, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Breaking Down the Mars Baneblade:

This tank isn't in too bad shape Most of the fine detail is intact but for some reason the hobbyist left off the carburetor covers and the spare bogies. I'll have to make those.

The big problem is as always removing the sponsons. They are very thin on the top flange and the bottom support mount flanges and these are intact so I want to keep them that way.

I begin by gently tapping the chisel between the top flange and the tread housing

http://i.imgur.com/4vbdkIu.jpg


This guy used a very hard and brittle epoxy and way too much. Better to file the inner surfaces smooth and when the fit is perfect attach the sponson with a drop or two of cyano-acetate cement.

This is an older model FW Baneblade cast before they upgraded the mould so there is a separate ladder instead of moulded in steps behind the sponson. I removed the ladder that gives me a good shot at the rear of the sponson.

http://i.imgur.com/2PJPBLv.jpg


A couple of gentle taps and the sponsons loose.

http://i.imgur.com/CIKUYkb.jpg


Note the barrels on the aft fender. These still have the very fine inner band flanges still completely intact. This delicate feature was changed when FW redid the mould and it is very rare to see them completely intact on both barrels.

I removed the treads and treadway blocks as demonstrated in an earlier post.

http://i.imgur.com/gNS4l1b.jpg


The parts are now ready for cleaning

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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 02-05-14, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Time to Stop Fooling Around:

time to get tough with this paint. I tried just about everything to remove the gunky pigment from these models but I do have one ace up my sleeve. Acetone.

Very little withstands being coated with a ketone based solvent but I hate to use it because it ruins any painted surface it come in contact with.

http://i.imgur.com/cOenxEo.jpg


After a light acid brushing with acetone the paint comes off with a bit of rubbing with a tooth brush.

http://i.imgur.com/W0jK0aJ.jpg


I could get that last bit of orange off but I don't think it will be necessary.

http://i.imgur.com/l8J3Pi1.jpg


I haven't yet applied it to the 'Polar Bear'; it's potent stuff and I don't like using it for too long of a period per day.

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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-09-14, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Forge World Concedes:

So here we have best evidence why FW got out of the Baneblade business.

Apparently their moulds worn out or distorted and rather than remake/retool their moulding process they just scrapped the Baneblade altogether conceding to GW the copyright to make styrene models and went to the greener pastures of a new line of superheavies; witness:

Here we have one of my latest acquisitions a Stormsword I believe without the bother of looking it up.

The model on the whole appears well made and was advertised on ebay as pro-painted. Well I myself had reservations on that claim but you can see that the modeler did put some good effort into the assembly and painting right down to hand-painting a skull icon on the fascia armour.

http://i.imgur.com/yj4jbLv.jpg


It is only when the model is flipped that we see gross errors in construction and this is a great example of the problem I stated in my previous post that the track block or the the length of the tread segments have been compromised.

Note the grievous discrepancy between the left and right track assemblies:

http://i.imgur.com/x3HaYjE.jpg


The right track is passing fair assembled but the left has 3 MM gaps on the flat road contact run.

This image shows it better; the foreground track with the gaping discontinuity of run and the background track passingly okay.

http://i.imgur.com/HunE9Hq.jpg


Note also that the front and rear of the hull floor plates are 5,0 to 6,0 MM too short compared to the upper hull length. The why of that will be touched on subsequently but right now the tracks are the object of this dissertation.

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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-17-14, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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An Interesting Albeit Erroneous Solution:

When I see something like this it saddens me that the most obvious solution was not attempted and instead a much more involved and time wasting and ultimately unsatisfactory resolution was decided on. I offer the following not to belittle the would be modeler but to demonstrate where he could have saved himself a lot of grief and and now been in the possession of a fine resin OOP model instead of a fractional remunerative of the original cost.

Note the outrageous effort to make the parts fit by adding shims to the cutouts.
http://i.imgur.com/a7XQUW7.jpg


Note also no attempt was made to trim the rear of the track mud guards the casting fill tubes are still in evidence. The sponsons are protruding a half MM above the surrounding surface and the modeler is attempting to fill the gaps with white styrene and greenstuff.

http://i.imgur.com/BpaTKII.jpg


On the flip side we have a pristine Shadowsword completely untrimmed from the Forge World Skunk Works and the novice builder tried to eliminate the casting flaws by building up the model where the most obvious remedy would be to trim off the casting vents.

Using the chisel and a small persuader gently tap the seam to sever the adherent without further damaging the resin. It is not advisable to pry with the chisel or you may shatter the resin Just tap the blade into the seam working along the perimeter a bit at a time so the whole piece comes free by small degrees without putting too much stress on the material as would be the case were you to free each portion entirely before shifting the chisel.

http://i.imgur.com/tOgRd0Y.jpg


Here we find the cause of all this unfortunate modeler's dilemma:

The last three models I have found has these large protuberances on the rear edge of the hull and not one of the modelers attempted to dress them down to a uniform height flush with the interior sloped incline.

http://i.imgur.com/AIRR3af.jpg


Please note that resin cuts as readily as cheese with the proper tools; in this case a standard Xacto 1/2 inch chisel and a hefty Utility knife with a new blade. and a small hammer.

There is never a need to build shims and mountains of green stuff when all that is needed is a bit of judicious trimming.

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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-17-14, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Hate Crime?

In my previous post I tried to be as charitable as possible but further evidence reveals this to be nothing less than a hate crime.

The first order was to remove the excess moulding vent material so the engine compartment can be fitted properly.

http://i.imgur.com/F6wJmeR.jpg


This is simple by literally paring the excess off with my utility knife as I said resin carves as easily as cheese with the proper tool.

http://i.imgur.com/oiFSEHk.jpg


After literally a few minutes of whittling the offending protrusions are removed and it's time to address the front deck.

The initial inspection of this perplexed me because there was greenstuff everywhere even in places that should have been easily joined such as the front deck underside bumper seam........

http://i.imgur.com/lE6x4J4.jpg


A few minutes with the hammer and chisel (This 'Greenstuff' is tenacious stuff!) the deck is removed with no damage to the surrounding resin thankfully because the front bumper is one of the great features of the Baneblade genera.

http://i.imgur.com/Z77g6Q8.jpg


On to the sponsons.......................

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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-17-14, 04:55 PM
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This is a great thread, i'm a big fan of refurbing models, though i'll profess to not being as skilled at it as you are. My own refurbed FW shadowsword i fear would make you cry. (I still can't get my tracks to line up completely, though i've at least corrected mistakes i made with the bodywork when i initially made it.). I'm really looking forwards to seeing you lay some paint on these. You've actually inspired me to have a look on ebay and see if i can find an old baneblade or shadowsword in need of some love which i can add to my armoured company. (there was an armourcast baneblade and shadowsword on there recently but the bidding went up too high for me)
Look forwards to seeing where you go with these next.

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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-17-14, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackadder View Post
Forge World Concedes:

So here we have best evidence why FW got out of the Baneblade business.

Apparently their moulds worn out or distorted and rather than remake/retool their moulding process they just scrapped the Baneblade altogether conceding to GW the copyright to make styrene models and went to the greener pastures of a new line of superheavies; witness:
Actually, there was not need to transfer copyright, GW owns FW completely, and that includes everything FW makes too.

Just got a chance to see this. I look forward to what the finished products look like (especially if you do some fully painted versions).

EDIT: I never actually looked before today, but it looks like FW didn't give up completely on making Baneblade variants:
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhamme...N_PATTERN.html
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhamme...N_PATTERN.html
http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhamme...N_PATTERN.html

Last edited by Zion; 04-17-14 at 05:19 PM.
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 04-17-14, 06:39 PM
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Great blog here, it is really good to see you pick out mistakes in assembly then identify how to correct them... I'm constantly repairing my thunderhawk due to stupid decisions that I made modelling it a fair few years ago, and I do not want to repeat those mistakes!

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