Legion Rising - Projects from The Dark Works - Page 16 - Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums
Project Logs This forum is dedicated to discussing and displaying your works in progress.

 60Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #151 of 320 (permalink) Old 07-26-16, 04:08 AM
Critique for da CriticGod
 
Kreuger's Avatar
Kreuger's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
Posts: 3,350
Reputation: 43
Default

Hey @Subtle Discord , these have been great updates. I'm really looking forward to your work as it progresses, and your store once you restock! I haven't been able to justify new hobby expenses for a while but I'm itching to pick up some of yours.

Onward and upward!

Chaos Army Showcase with photos (Updated 2013/12/02)
"To endure one's self is perhaps the hardest task in the universe." Frank Herbert, 'Dune Messiah'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dethklokk
"CHEESE!" is the battlecry of the ill-prepared.

Originally Posted by Deathscythe4722
Could someone please call the police on this guy? I can hear the English Language screaming in pain. This has to be illegal somewhere.
Kreuger is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #152 of 320 (permalink) Old 07-30-16, 04:29 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Subtle Discord's Avatar
Subtle Discord's Flag is: Canada
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Chaos Wastes
Posts: 209
Reputation: 25
Default

Take your time Kreuger and pick something up whenever you're ready and can justify the expense. I may go quiet when I'm busy with other things sometimes, but I'm not going anywhere and have every plan to keep producing for the foreseeable future. See that all of my processes are only improving as times passes, procrastination will be good for that fact alone; I'll be making nicer kits by the time you're ready to order.

Since first showing it, I've had quite a few people show interest in the Shield Generator and its progress. I'm happy to say that all of the prototype components have been completed and mould making has begun. For production it will need several moulds, so it'll take several days to get them all completed; but I should be able to have an assembly update once I have the first set of moulds for repeating parts finished. I'm very eager to see it in-the-round, as it were. I'm feeling very good about the fit, but I won't know for sure until the parts are in hand and test fit together. *Crosses his fingers, legs, toes... and eyes*

Now, over the years I've been asked on more than one occasion how I manage to get such clean lines, sharp corners, and smooth corners on my builds. I've talked about my technique here-and-there but college has forced me to become much more practiced in my building technique, and it seemed like this build would be a good place to show off my three main methods for dealing with corners when scratch building with styrene.


How you deal with a corner really depends on just how much material and/or structure you have to work with.

When you have a single piece of plastic with a few bends, or a delicate structure, most times its best to add some strength to the corner/s. The great thing about styrene is how well it snaps along a cut line, even if itís not deep, and if youíre careful it will break while keeping a thin Ďhingeí of plastic that holds the parts together, if so desired. The simplest solution to easily strengthen a corner like this is to add a rod of plastic and then lock it in place with some extra thin solvent glue. Once the plastic finishes fusing the structure becomes much stronger and can handle the stress of the next steps.

With this method I want to achieve a clean single edge thatís as seamless as possible, so Iíll add extra greenstuff (greenstuff + brownstuff mix in this case) to the corner so I have extra material for the next step.


Once the material added to the corners has cured, itís a simple matter of sanding it down until it becomes flush with the parent material surface.

Depending on how much material Iím trying to remove, Iíll start with a 220-to-320 grit sandpaper and use that until I get very close to the surface; from there switch to 400-to-600 grit to remove the last of the corner material. Take a little care as you reach the surface and it will become seamless and smooth and you sand it down; as long as itís even, on a broad flat surface the sand paper will remove virtually no material and just buff the surface to perfect smoothness and give you a crisp corner.


Now that I have more structure thereís enough strength to handle creating a clean single edge corner with nothing but styrene.

With this next layer I start by gluing the side pieces into place and sanding the edges down so they are flush with the center surface. Then I close that gap with strips of plastic that also extend further then needed, so they can be sanded back flush with the sides surfaces. When gluing these parts Iím careful to be liberal with the solvent along the seams and add a bit of extra pressure so that there is just a little extra material to be sanded flush. Before I start standing I use a razor to remove as possible to speed the process and minimize the dust made during sanding.


As with the first method, now itís just a matter of sanding down the extra material until itís flush and a clean corner if formed.

One key thing you need to do with corners like this is to wait until the solvent is completely evaporated and the plastic is completely hardened. If you rush the process youíll sand down to a nice smooth surface, but the slightly softer seam of uncured plastic will leave a faint-but-noticeable seam on the surface; if the plastic is totally cured you may be able to see some faint colour variations, but the surface will be completely smooth and true.

Again, as with the first method, start with a heavier grit sandpaper and as you get close to the surface youíre aiming for switch to something lighter. This simple Ďbuild over the edge and sand it backí method can be used to create super clean forms out of styrene as long as your patient enough to let the solvents evaporate before you start sanding.


This is my preferred method to produce really clean and even beveled edges that wrap nicely around corners.

The simple trick of this method is to use the corner of the parent material to help get the shape youíre after. Simply roll out a nice thin rod of greenstuff and lay it in the Ďcrookí created by the two layers of plastic. Then use a simple flat tool (a few of different sizes/shapes are usually helpful in different locations) to force the greenstuff into edge and let the styrene do the work for you; as you press it down and rock the tool over the greenstuff the corner of the styrene will Ďcutí its way through the material. Once you can see an obvious line through the greenstuff caused by the styrene corner and the surface is reasonably close to how you want it, stop right there and let the greenstuff cure. It wastes a bit of material, but I find it much easier to clean up the excess once itís cured rather than trying to scrape it away while itís still soft. Once the greenstuff is cured you can simple scrape the excess away with a fingernail with no worry of harming the material you want to keep.

I find the greenstuff will bulge on corners and across some stubborn areas; again, this is fine and exactly why you get the greenstuff filler close to the final shape and then you do the last refining work once itís hardened. Here, I find using sanding sticks very useful for removing any offending bulges while still giving me control to keep the surfaces smooth and the edges clean, sharp, and true. It is possible to make your own sanding sticks with some double-sided foam tape and strips of styrene, but when you use as many as I can when Iím doing a lot of building, itís nice to have a good pre-made product.

Alpha Abrasives has been a favorite of mine for many years, (shameless plug for a local Canadian company) not only for their abrasive products, but also for the Abrasive Cleaning Disc you can see pictured to the right of the sanding sticks. It costs $6 CAD, but mine has lasted me for about 10 years now, is still going strong, and itís saved me a fair amount of time and money. Simply put, greenstuff is a great modeling material, but it quickly clogs sandpaper and files when youíre try to shape it. Using the cleaning disk, with its strange rubbery and slightly sticky nature, you can rub clogged sandpaper and files clean of greenstuff residue with relative ease. Sandpaper and sanding sticks that would normally be garbage can be reused several more times after a cleaning with this simple tool.


So, there you have it, all of the necessary components for the Shield Generator are complete and mould making has commenced.

Iím particularly happy with how close to invisible the join is for the removable top of the structure; buy taking advantage of the form I created and using some detailing to further hide the seam, the join all but vanishes when the parts come together. Six reasonably large magnets (two per pillar) will be provided in the final kit to secure the top battlements to the base and I suspect it strong enough to only come apart with deliberate intent. This will help with transport and make it easy to replace the plasma globe should it be necessary.

Stay tuned for more updates on this project as it progresses; itís the largest model my little studio has produced to date, and while Iím confident that itís going to be great, itís still somewhat new territory for me and Iím eager to see this proof of concept prove itself.

Other musing about other topics are also on their way; I have another articles worth of pictures, (on a few different subjects) already finished and just waiting for the copy to get written. That article will shed some light on the projects I have coming up over the next several weeks and how theyíll impact whatís coming up beyond that.

Thanks for reading. As always, more to come!

"The old galaxy is dying, and the new galaxy struggles to be born; now is the time of monsters."



Subtle Discord is offline  
post #153 of 320 (permalink) Old 07-30-16, 04:29 PM
Critique for da CriticGod
 
Kreuger's Avatar
Kreuger's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
Posts: 3,350
Reputation: 43
Default

@Subtle Discord that's a beautifully detailed tutorial on scratch building sharp corners.

Personally, I held off because I have so many projects in my back log and for the past few years my wife and I were busy in grad school and being parents. Now that school is done I have some more bandwidth to get through my project backlog.

Chaos Army Showcase with photos (Updated 2013/12/02)
"To endure one's self is perhaps the hardest task in the universe." Frank Herbert, 'Dune Messiah'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dethklokk
"CHEESE!" is the battlecry of the ill-prepared.

Originally Posted by Deathscythe4722
Could someone please call the police on this guy? I can hear the English Language screaming in pain. This has to be illegal somewhere.
Kreuger is offline  
 
post #154 of 320 (permalink) Old 08-01-16, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Subtle Discord's Avatar
Subtle Discord's Flag is: Canada
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Chaos Wastes
Posts: 209
Reputation: 25
Default

Taken from another corner of the interweb, someone comment that the Shield Generator kit might benefit from not including any GW parts to make it easier for the purchaser to build. While I completely understand this idea (and can't say it won't ever happen) I felt the reply was a worthy update to Legion Rising.

Seriously, thank you very much for having this kind of conversation. I'm always interested in hearing opinions and feedback that fosters a dialogue beyond the look/quality of the work I'm doing; talk that will help steer my studio's deeper design philosophy will always get serious consideration.

It's absolutely true that I'm playing a balancing act, in many ways, with how I'm currently running my studio. For the most part, I need to follow the path of least resistance with what I'm doing for now, and 'conversion kits' that work with an existing model are prime examples. Not only do they provide some heavy lifting in creating the finished product, they also give the final model at least some legitimate claim that they can be used as official pieces. I'm the first to admit that in this case I've taken it very far and have added a ton of resin to accommodate all of the elements I wanted in the design, but at its core there is an official GW kit to add some legitimacy. For now I am designing specifically for the Warhammer 40/30k universe very intentionally for a few reasons (more on that in a moment) but with that said, I will say that in future I have every plan to produce more stand-alone models that are made completely in-house.

From a production standpoint I'll 'pull back the curtain' a bit to give you an idea where this kit stands, because it really is a different animal compared to everything I've produced so far. Truth be told, I could likely create my own version of the center piece and do it for a little cheaper then what it'll cost to get the pieces you'll need from GW; that said, the parts would be rather tricky to make (due to the slope combined with round and flat elements) and would add much more time to the build that I simply do not have right now. Add to that the fact that this kit is currently sitting at 12-14 moulds to produce (double the count of the largest kits I make now) adding another 4-6 moulds (at least two of them quite large) for the center column plus extra detail bits would be almost prohibitive for this kit. This is an ambitious kit for my modest studio, it doesn't need more.

As for cost, producing the whole thing in-house might trim about $10 CAD off the final price I would charge, at most. Given the amount of resin and labour this kit will demand (resin is actually a very reasonably cost material, but this kit is going to use lots of it) I will likely need to charge $75-to-$80 CAD for my kit, with the $18 CAD Plasma Globe included. In Canada the Vengeance Weapon Battery kit costs $60 CAD at full price from GW, adding $30 CAD to the cost of building one of these towers, but I'm sure they can be found for cheaper from other sources, new or used. I do apologize to those who have to suffer with extra-absurd GW pricing, nothing I can do there. Adding another 4-6 moulds would easily add $20+ CAD to the price. Yes, this will be a $110 CAD kit to complete, maybe even a bit more; but trust me when I say I feel confident it's a fair price for the size, quality, novelty, and exclusivity, of this kit. I'm what I consider a renaissance manufacturer who is not interested in mass producing at the lowest possible cost to keep profit margins as large a possible. I want to produce absolute top quality, unique designs, at a smaller production scale, permitting the time and care necessary to give the attention to detail that is lost when manufacturing is too much about mass production.

Finally, one of the other main reasons why I make kits that incorporate GW/FW models ties into a longer agenda that I have planned; I'm trying to build a portfolio of work that shows just how good I am at creating kits that blend seamlessly and compliment the parent GW/FW model. At worst, I wan't to make kits so amazing that I get a reputation for being the 'unofficial official' other Forge World; that independent producer who's making stuff so good, it may as well be FW. Best case scenario, I make a portfolio of work so strong that when I present it to GW I can convince them to consider some kind of 'affiliate studio' program so I can become official and gain a little more freedom in my designs; it might sound a bit crazy (trust me, I'm intimidated even considering it) but nothing ventured, nothing gained, so they say. I'm very cautiously optimistic, but also being careful not to be surprised by a letdown.

All that said, I will be producing kits that are completely my own design and manufacture (the Mor'ses Weapon Platform, is a first test in that direction) along side more conversion kits, when it makes sense. They'll start arriving when I can get working in the studio full-time once I've complete college. But, enough rambling for now, I've got another article almost finished that I'll be posting up shortly, and It'll talk some about future plans and what I'm doing today to get the groundwork for future projects. Thanks for reading, and thanks for the input, it's always appreciated.

"The old galaxy is dying, and the new galaxy struggles to be born; now is the time of monsters."



Subtle Discord is offline  
post #155 of 320 (permalink) Old 08-07-16, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Subtle Discord's Avatar
Subtle Discord's Flag is: Canada
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Chaos Wastes
Posts: 209
Reputation: 25
Default

Being a bit of hodgepodge of subjects, it seems appropriate for another episode to chronicle myÖ Tales of Interest!

First up, I forgot that I never showed the final renders of the Chaos Marine helmet I did last year in college due to my hectic schedule. It turned out quite well, so it seems only fit to show it in its complete state. Better late than never.


For added visual interest under the front grill I designed my take on a Vox speaker and a vent for breathing when atmosphere is available, and in the ear you can see my take on audio pickup device.


Under the back panel you can see communications device with two antennas, and the module with the hazard stripes is mean to be the replaceable re-breather filter for less hospitable environments.

Time was a real consideration with this build, so for as much detail as there is, I wasnít able to go too overboard getting down to smaller detailing. Given more time I would have hollowed/shelled the helmet properly and made the face plate removable, opening the door to the chance to detail the inside. I also wanted to add a collar component and would have liked to make the horns a little more organic, but the project just didnít permit the time investment.

I changed the surface from my first rendering, from a gloss to a satin and I think it suits the helmet better. It was mentioned that the gloss finish seemed give it a Star Wars meets Warhammer 40K feel, and I had to agree. While I wasnít able to do anything elaborate, I was able to add a bit of texture to the horns to make them feel a bit more organic. Solidworks really isnít meant to create authentic renderings; in that I mean, rendering objects that have a bit of wear-and-tear and looked used, as one would likely expect of a Chaos Marine helmet. Itís very good at factory fresh objects that are right out of the box or sitting on a showroom floor, but I wanted to at least try to rough it up a bit. I was able to add some very convincing paint chipping with use of decals (normally used for branding and the like) that I was quite pleased with. With the limited time, I couldnít find a technique to also add some scratches and weathering marks to the other metal components, however.

Next up in our planned public service announcementsÖ The Bad. *Insert ominous Slaanesh-approved music here* Unfortunately, thereís no fictional blurb to accompany this one yet, but I will have one in future.


Thereís good news and bad news with the Spartan kit. The bad news, in a wordÖ the tracks! ErrÖ wait a second, thatís two wordsÖ

Itís my understanding that the track components have now been integrated onto the side-hull section on an updated version of this kit that is now shipping from FW. While that does solve the only real problem with this kit, I was not lucky enough to get one of the new kits and I can see exactly why these parts were such a hassle. Not only are they delicate, with the link edges and other small bits very prone to breaking during shipping and/or during assembly.


Beyond being fragile, the tracks simply do not fit the model correctly. Even Forge World was unable to get the tracks to fit on their studio model pictured here.

Put simply, there is roughly half a link too much in the track set, and no matter how you try to adjust the fit you canít get a convincing clean fit for the tracks all the way around. I consider this ĎThe Badí because this is a design flaw pure-and-simple, and I think it could/should have been corrected before they put this model into production. Given the obvious nature of the problem, the reasonably small size of the parts involved, and the capabilities of the FW studio, I canít see how it could have been too hard to rectify. Add in the cost they ask for the kit and the fact that Iím sure theyíve sold many of them, correcting something like this before going to production seems fair to me.

Iím still not sure how Iíll handle the problem, and Iím not really sweating it too much (itís a small detail after all) but Iím likely going to follow FWís example and simply shave it down. I think I can do it in such a way that it can look like a narrow Ďmaster linkí that should be reasonably seamless, but Iím not too worried either way; Iím trying to tame my modeling OCD just a wee bit, and aim for Ďreally goodí instead of Ďnear flawlessí and itís working. Iíve done more actual productive assembly in the last year then I have in several before it. I wonít be able to really dig in and finish anything significant until college is done (twoÖ finalÖ semestersÖ) but when the time comes I should be able to bring several projects to completion in short order. I canít wait! *Wipes away the froth forming at his mouth* MustÖ finishÖ moreÖ projects!


Beyond the tracks, the Spartan assembles very nicely with no real surprises; the main hull fits together with the kind of work youíd expect.

The top front door is a bit thin, especially after I shaved off the eagle on the outside, so I reinforced it with some styrene. I prefer to button-up my vehicles, so itís no bother to me. Iíve got enough to worry about with the outside of vehicles.

It did require a bit of clamping to get a really nice tight fit on the final assembly, but after that the main hull was as solid as rock. With a bit of sanding to even up the edges everything was ready. Iíve attached some 80 grit sandpaper from a belt sander (virtually indestructible) to a thin strip of oak to create a sanding tool that can really remove material very fast. Great for quick leveling job just like this.


This is how a model should come together. After some straight forward subassembly the build is stress free.

Thanks to the properly fitting keys that lock the side hulls to the main hull assembly, from here itís simple to finish the largest part of the build. Unlike the Sicaran kit, the fit for these parts on the Spartan is near prefect all the way around the vehicle, top and bottom with no modification or forcing.


So there you have it, the Spartan is well on its way to being assembled and now ready to be fit for future studio kits.

Beyond the issues with the tracks this is a really nice model. Where some FW kits will exhibit some slight bowing of surfaces and other minor idiosyncrasies the Spartanís lines and surfaces are nice and true. To me, it shows that FW is really starting to hone in on how theyíre producing their kits and Iíll be interested to see if this trend continues with any future kits I purchase that have been produced after the Spartan.

The Spartan is also a perfect illustration of something Iíve meant to bring up from time-to-time. With the popularity of my Ďtrim kitsí Iíve been asked on more than one occasion if Iíll be doing a trim kit for Ďinsert model name hereí. Put simply, some hulls lend themselves very well to something like my trim; lots of clean straight lines that I can follow, with enough surface area that can reasonably accommodate the width that the trim will be. The Rhino hull is excellent for these reasons and the Spartan is a good example of a hull that would be a real pain to make a good trim kit for. With all the surfaces and detailing, there would be so many small bits that it would be a real pain to design a custom fitting kit. The Spartan will get The Dark Works treatment, but not a proper trim kit, more than likely.

Iím also mentioning trim kits for a specific reason because they have been something Iíve been keen on improving for quite some time. For those who take some interest in how I make my kits and the process involved, Iíll give you a look at my love-hate relationship with these kits. The skinny on the trims, as it wereÖ


These rather unglamorous looking four moulds are what it takes to create just one reasonably simple trim kit for a Rhino hull.

When you cast with resin you generally need to work very quickly. If you want it to fully harden in a reasonable amount of time, the plastic you use will begin curing (AKA: kicking) very quickly, getting thicker-and-thicker by the second. The delicate nature of my trim kits makes this a problem; if you inject the resin into the moulds quickly (and you have no choice, as the seconds slip by when the resin start to kick in) it will cause the mould to bulge and expand, overflowing from the voids that create the parts. This will cause some tissue-paper-like flash at best, and thatís acceptable; or the flash is far too thick and it completely ruins the part, costing both labour and materials. Up to this point I have made due with simple but effective mould clamps/boxes locked in place with wingnuts that apply even pressure over the mould to fix this issue. While this solution works very well, with four moulds per kit that adds up to sixteen wingnuts that need to be unfastened and refastened each time the parts are removed from the mould. Along with carefully de-moulding these delicate parts, itís simply too much labour for a product that needs a reasonable price point because of what it is.

Now I learned a lot about my materials and process since I first started producing these trim kits, and Iíve got some ideas on how I think I can improve the process to reduce the mould count and make them easier to de-mould to improve on labour. For these kits to remain viable going forward, these improvements must be made. I really do like the trim kits as a product, and they are popular in my shop, but I really do hate the labour involved to produce them, and I somewhat dread having to do any significant casting run of them.

So, with these plans to improve the manufacturing process I wanted to also do new sets of trim prototypes for the endeavour. Having used my Zing successfully in the past for both studio and college, I set to work on my new designs.


While Zing is a capable little cutter that can really do amazing things, itís just not up to the task of cutting arrows and points that are 2mm wide in styrene.

The cutting blade on the Zing needs to pivot to turn corners, and while itís an extremely tiny pivot, it just isnít responsive enough in the dense styrene plastic. In lighter vinyl, for example, the Zing would actually be able to achieve these shapes with some adjustment of the settings and the blade height, but in styrene itís just not possible. I tried to Ďdial iní the settings, and this did improve the results, but not enough to make it acceptable; the extra density of the styrene simply forces the blade to take longer to pivot around to the new cutting direction. Note how the simple shapes cut well enough, (adding small Ďswing around loopsí at corners will create very sharp corners) and it can almost get acceptable results of the simpler endpoints, but when it comes down to actual arrows it just canít handle it.

A test with a pen shows that the Zing has the accuracy required, but with the pivoting cutting blade, it just canít get the same results at this scale. And the scale in this case is worth noting; these bands are just 2mm wide and the arrows are roughly 4mm tall, so these are very small details to be asking Zing to cut. If the pattern was simper (like the Mk.II Land Raider kit I made with Zing) and/or a little larger in scale (like the Shield Generator I just finished building) Zing would have a much better time cutting the parts out. So, while Zing isnít up to the task of cutting parts for my trim kits, it has still been invaluable for building models for college, and it still has plenty of potential for larger scale cutting jobs.

The silver lining to this outcome is that the designs are all digital and now created in Solidworks, so changing these into models that can be rapid prototyped (RP) is all but done. The plan was to do these at the beginning of the summer but the complications forced me to put them off. And then I got a littleÖ distractedÖ *looks sheepish* by the Shield Generator project; itís turned out as good as I had hoped, but took a little longer then I wanted it to. But thatís a subject for another wall-oí-text.




Shown large so you can get a good feel for the lines of each design, Iím not making massive changes to these first kits, just refining the concept.

A direct evolution of the Mk.I (a personal favorite) The Mk.III is obviously intended to be a straight-up Chaos/Renegade version. The Mk.IV tones down the overt arrows to more decorative points letting it work well with either Chaos or Loyalist, and 40k or 30k. Finally, the Mk.V can be used for Chaos, but is really intended more as a Loyalist design, again for both 40k and 30k.

With a change to RP to make the prototypes, the two main hurdles for these kits and any other trim kits that I design (be it a kit for a specific hull or a bulk trim kit for a builder to use how they see fit) are surface quality and the very thin nature of these parts. The first, surface quality, (which effects every RP I plan to make, really) will simply come down to the RP method used to create the parts; there are methods that can produce extremely good surface quality but they are not cheap and there might be a problem trying to find it locally due to how specialized (read: Expensive!) the prototypers are that can produce the results Iíll be looking for. While cost is a major consideration I can appreciate the value of a good prototype and have no problem carefully investing in them when it makes sense. Being such low volume objects should also make the trims in particular a good early RP candidate; they should be reasonably cheap to have RPíed.

My main worry is the delicate nature of the parts, and if they might be a little too thin to safely RP. Or more accurately, to remove from the build tray after the part has been created. Not including the rivets the parts are less than 1mm tall, and 0.5mm at the thinnest points. Iíve made the sprue a thickness Iím sure will be safe, but Iím still worried the parts may be too thin and brittle, breaking apart before they can be moulded. Conversely, they might be so thin that they are prone to curling and/or warping and staying 100% flat and true is key to these kits being successful kits. All said, I will find a way to make my trim designs work. I like how these kits produce a subtle-yet-striking result to the parent model and I can see them evolving considerably once I smooth out any production kinks; expect to see some with delicate filigree and more much unique/ornate lines, bands adorned with spikes, hooks, and chains suitable for attaching trophies (Read: Spikes done right!), trims with runes and symbols of power etched along their length, and those are just what comes off the top pf my head. 3D modeling opens a door to a level of detail that will be very interesting to my design process, to say the least. Stay tuned!

These, along with a few other 3D models that I have lurking in the shadows will be the first components Iíll be having RPíed locally and theyíll be used to test a few different methods to find the one/s that will work for my future studio projects. The wonderful advantage of working locally is that the turn-around time for prints will go from 2-3 weeks down to as little as 2-3 days if I choose. Faster turn-around costs more, but when itís a difference of weeks, and itís with a supplier that I can directly communicate with to get the best results in the timeframe I want, thatís worth the extra investment.

So here ends this, my most recent Tale of Interest *the words echo slightly*, and the accompanying chapter dedicated to ĎThe Badí Spartan build. Coming soon, ĎThe Uglyí Fire Raptor build, complete with emoticons to illustrate the swings in mood that kit has forced me to endure. Donít get me wrong, the final model is absolutely gorgeous, but the build is Ďadvancedí at best and maddening at worst, especially if youíre a bit particular about fit-and-finish, like myself. Iíve successfully learned to tone down my perfectionist ideals in the name actually getting some projects done, but the Raptor holds a special honour for very nearly giving me a mild brain aneurysm. But all is behind me nowÖ *stares blissfully into space*

But before that, expect a smallíish update on the Shield Generator project; as mentioned, while it did take a little more work than planned, Iím more then pleased with the final outcome and canít wait to see one completely assembled. It really has pushed my production methods to their limits, and itís been very valuable in teaching me some lessons in casting large components; something I absolutely plan to do more of in the future.

OkÖ Iíll stop rambling nowÖ *Subtle wanders off to do something else productive*

"The old galaxy is dying, and the new galaxy struggles to be born; now is the time of monsters."



Subtle Discord is offline  
post #156 of 320 (permalink) Old 08-08-16, 12:05 AM
Closet Dictator
 
Old Man78's Avatar
Old Man78's Flag is: Ireland
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sector 7 G
Posts: 3,411
Reputation: 34
Default

Excellent work and your tutorials are great, your ramblings are very informative

Old Man78 is offline  
post #157 of 320 (permalink) Old 08-08-16, 12:12 AM
Critique for da CriticGod
 
Kreuger's Avatar
Kreuger's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
Posts: 3,350
Reputation: 43
Default

Looking good as always. The Spartan photos were very illustrative.

Chaos Army Showcase with photos (Updated 2013/12/02)
"To endure one's self is perhaps the hardest task in the universe." Frank Herbert, 'Dune Messiah'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dethklokk
"CHEESE!" is the battlecry of the ill-prepared.

Originally Posted by Deathscythe4722
Could someone please call the police on this guy? I can hear the English Language screaming in pain. This has to be illegal somewhere.
Kreuger is offline  
post #158 of 320 (permalink) Old 08-08-16, 07:42 AM
Member
 
Flatlinerunner's Avatar
Flatlinerunner's Flag is: Germany
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 52
Reputation: 8
Default

Amazing als always. Very impressed by your clean take on the spartan tank
Flatlinerunner is offline  
post #159 of 320 (permalink) Old 08-08-16, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Subtle Discord's Avatar
Subtle Discord's Flag is: Canada
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Chaos Wastes
Posts: 209
Reputation: 25
Default

ďWe have attained the plans. Now build it! Build itÖ to the sky!Ē

*tap tap tap*

ďActually my Lord, itís uhhÖ only about 35 units vertical; but it does generate a protective shield!Ē

*glowering*

ďOhÖ well, I see then. I suppose that will do.Ē



Held together with fit, friction, poster tack, hope, and some prayers to the Dark Gods, I present the first, mostly complete, test fit for the Shield Generator.

This test fitting reviled that the main Ďpillarí component could actually benefit from a little tweaking and adjustment, so that was done. As of taking these pictures the rest of the parts have been moulded and the final moulds (for the main base and the revised pillar component) will be finished tonight. First finalized casts and fitting will start tomorrow and I should have a 100% complete model ready for photos in the next few days. For efficient sustainable production I will need to create some more moulds of the repeating parts, but Iíll have just enough to start limited production. For now, I only have 4 Plasma Globes to make a complete kit (with more on the way) so limited production for a little longer is not really a problem. These will be offered without the Plasma Globe, minus the cost of the globe, for those who may have one or want to source their own, but I canít make any promises about the final fit of the internal hardware.


As an added hidden bonus for the Door component, Iíve provided room for the power switch and added seats so it can be magnetized.

Naturally the builder can simply glue the door component in place and leave the switch exposed. Itís not a really that distracting to the model and it leaves easy access to turn the Plasma Globe off during the game to represent when the shield has been knocked down. But, if you want to hide the switch behind the door, simply drill a few holes to each side of the switch and mount a few magnets to secure the door in place. Iíve made the seats for very broad flat magnets (that will be included) so they wonít need to align perfectly with the magnets in the base, but the part should still attach to the model cleanly due to the fit.



The finish is just what I would expect, and the fitÖ the fit isÖ good!

Have I mentioned yet that Iím in love with these round rivets and hex bolts that I picked up from Tichy Train Group? Well I am! Just look at how well theyíve turned out in the final casts. Soooo niceÖ *drools just a tiny bit* Since theyíre made from HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) they glue perfectly with the extra thin solvent glues that I prefer; but HIPS (as the name suggest) really is a harder version of the styrene family of plastics, so theyíll be tougher and resist melting too much during gluing despite their tiny size.

I was a little worried that the Ďdeck plateí for the battements on the top of the model might not come together as tightly as Iíd hoped, but theyíve turned out very well. The added benefit of the overall shape being a hexagon will make the battlement components Ďsnap fití together, actually locking the assembly tight; you shouldnít need very much glue to get a very strong final build. Finally, you can see how the top will look from the bottom up, to give an idea how the larger dish is intended to attach.


Also, if I hadnít been clear earlier, the glowing Chaos Objective Markers are a studio project that will be available very soon in my shop.

The kit will come complete with six bases, six unique stones (each double-sided), and six colour-changing LED tea lights that will provide the hardware and batteries. Simply attach the stones to the provided bases, apply whatever basing treatment suits your army, and paint as you see fit. Insert the hardware and battery provided, and itíll be good-to-go. Ominous glowing stones of powíah!

Ok, now I need to make something. Time to scratch that itch! *Runs off with a manic look in his eyes*
Flatlinerunner likes this.

"The old galaxy is dying, and the new galaxy struggles to be born; now is the time of monsters."



Subtle Discord is offline  
post #160 of 320 (permalink) Old 08-10-16, 07:28 PM
Critique for da CriticGod
 
Kreuger's Avatar
Kreuger's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA USA
Posts: 3,350
Reputation: 43
Default

@Subtle Discord wow that's just awesome looking. All of it.

I'm going to place an order once you have the shield generator for sale. I have a few things I've been admiring amongst your wares and it's just about time.

Your work just keeps getting better and better. I admire your process of making stunning models but also building in easily sourced 3rd party objects (e.g. lights) to really move it up another notch.


P.s. - Your store still suggests you're on vacation.

Chaos Army Showcase with photos (Updated 2013/12/02)
"To endure one's self is perhaps the hardest task in the universe." Frank Herbert, 'Dune Messiah'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dethklokk
"CHEESE!" is the battlecry of the ill-prepared.

Originally Posted by Deathscythe4722
Could someone please call the police on this guy? I can hear the English Language screaming in pain. This has to be illegal somewhere.

Last edited by Kreuger; 08-10-16 at 07:31 PM.
Kreuger is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums > Hobby > Project Logs

Tags
black legion , kit bashing , resin casting , scratch building , tools

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome