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Sethis 01-27-13 02:40 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by bitsandkits (Post 1333642)
plumbing pipe might be better for the staff, its light, cheap, durable and alot easier to get joints for.

Looked into it, but figured that the metal meant I wouldn't need to paint it as it's a nice shiny gold colour already, and that means the paint can't chip. I'm also doing a lot of this work at my dads, and he has a fully tooled out workshop in his garage, so working with metal and wood is just as easy as plastic and card. :)

Here's the piece I'm using:

Sethis 01-27-13 07:50 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Updated with pics. At this point the gauntlet is so hard I can smash it against the desk and it'll fly out of my hand before it breaks. Good stuff!

Armour (Filler stage)

Required Materials:

- P38 Easy Sand Isopon (Halfords)
- Applicator (Bit of wood/plastic/metal)
- Craft Knife/Razor blade
- The usual PPE, mixing pot, measuring pot etc. Keep wearing that respirator!

You should now have a pretty tidy item with smoothed off fiberglass inside and either resin or fiberglass on the outside, depending on what you did with it.

Now you mix up some of the P38 (Americans call it ďRondoĒ so if you want a tutorial video, google that instead). Again, follow the instructions on the box and wear your PPE.

Once more, itís easier to do it in smaller stages, particularly for large items. Try a minimum amount first, see how far it gets you, and then you can estimate how much you should mix up in future. Better too little - and use everything you have - than waste filler by either having excess left over or not being able to use it all before it starts to harden.

Splodge it on, wipe it about, and get as smooth a coverage as you can. Itís in your best interests at this stage to start trying to get it as smooth as possible, and to start looking to get the curves right, because itíll save you a *lot* of sanding later if you pay attention now.

When youíre done and the filler is half cured (i.e. still bendy and flexible but doesnít come off on your fingers) you can save yourself some time sanding if you go over it with a craft knife or razor blade and trim off any big blobs you might have, or any detail that youíve obscured. Donít go nuts and cut right back to the resin, just get rid of big bits of excess.

Sethis 01-27-13 09:46 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Alright, going to take a break from "Tutorial" format and examine some of the roadbumps I've hit so far.

Size

When I tried on the gauntlet in card/resin form, I knew that I was going to have to cut down the middle of the back in order to get my arm into it, due to the narrow wrist design which my fist is never going to pass through.

What this meant was the gauntlet was a lot more flexible and narrow than it is after both fiberglass and body filler. Now it is a good centimeter thick in places, and is rigid as a rock. Ergo I can no longer get my arm in, so I have had to cut a much wider channel in the back as you can see in the first picture. Even so, my arm is compressed into a weird shape when the gauntlet is on, so I need to build a lot more space into it next time round. I also need to leave space for either cloth padding inside the bracer, or the sleeve of whatever I'm wearing. Body filler rubbing on open skin isn't fun.

Technical Problems

So far have been surprisingly few, probably due to the amount of background research I went through before even starting. However:

- Next time, do a thin layer of filler before fiberglassing. You can see in the second photo near the wrist where the fiberglass has come away from the resin, forming a bubble underneath. Obviously we don't want this.

- Apparently you can thin the filler with the resin, giving you a much more controllable material to work with. The filler on its own has the consistency of wet cement, it's very thick and needs to be spread with a tool rather than a brush. This results in uneven coatings on curved surfaces due to the shape of the tool, as you can see by the "rivers" in the third picture. A second coat will be needed. Thankfully the filler and the resin use the same hardener (at least in the UK) so you can just go by total volume in your measuring cup when mixing up a batch.

Sethis 01-28-13 08:18 PM

6 Attachment(s)
So, several more hours of "Pepping" later, we have a completed shoulderpad and a WIP Helmet!

I'm going to resin along the bottom edge of the helmet before going any higher, to lend it some structural stability while retaining enough flexibility to work with.

If you're wondering why I'm making one of everything instead of pairs, it's because I want to get the scale right before I leave on Thursday, that way I can continue what I'm doing with a minimum of adjustments in a less well-tooled environment!

Sethis 01-28-13 10:48 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Last update of the day.

We now have a helmet stiffened around the bottom 1-2 inches, making it a nice rigid platform to build on. Once I get about two thirds of the way up I'll do it again. It also enables me to cut a nice straight sided hole through the middle so I can check the fit as I build, with no risk of tearing the paper.

I have also tried my first resin/filler mix on the shoulder, which gave a nice "milkshake" texture which was easy to spread. Gives a thinner coat, which helps preserve the detail and sharp lines that I want. Unfortunately I went a little OTT with the hardener, with the result that I wasted about a third of the cup, and only had about 5 minutes to play with it. Lesson learned!

Sethis 01-29-13 06:46 PM

3 Attachment(s)
So, a little more progress:

The staff has been cut partway down in order to make it more practical to pack away and transport. An insert has been turned on the lathe, which is going to be glued and screwed into the smaller piece, which will then plug into place on the bigger piece and be secured by another screw. All of these screws will be hidden because the cut was made where my hand rests naturally on the staff when I'm walking with it. I am also considering etching some detail into the staff itself - Eldar runes etc.

I have also pepped up some more of the helmet! You can see most of the facial structure now, just needs the dome working up the the top and finishing off.

son of azurman 01-29-13 09:49 PM

looks great keep it up

Sethis 01-30-13 12:38 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by son of azurman (Post 1334359)
looks great keep it up

Thanks! :)

Finished work on the main body of the helmet!!! There's still the rear wraithbone spine to do (along with the other shoulder and a new pair of bracers), but I'm fairly sick of pepping stuff up by now - I think I've been doing it for close to 20 hours over three days - so I'm going to crack on with the resin and the filler!

I don't know if you can tell or not, but the scale on the helmet is pretty damn close to ideal. It's nice and snug and doesn't look comically big.

Well... it is an Eldar helmet so of course it looks big, but you know what I mean!

Sethis 01-30-13 09:35 PM

Entire outside and inside of the helmet has been resin-ated (hah!) so is safe to pack and travel with. I've also sanded down the shoulderguard ready for another coat of filler/resin mix. This time I'll be using a little more filler and mostly applying it in the areas that are sunken, so hopefully once I've sanded down the second coat it'll be almost done.

That said, I'm about to start three weeks of training for a new job, and I'm living in shared accommodation for the duration of it. Most housemates do not appreciate the communal areas being filled with fumes so toxic you have to wear a mask in order to breathe, so... updates may be a little slower for a while. It basically depends on whether I can find somewhere to do the resin coating that is heated yet also won't kill people due to fumes.

jams 01-30-13 11:15 PM

7 Attachment(s)
Sethis, this log is immense! I can't wait to see everything finished. What are you thinking of using for the eye lenses?


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