We Don't Need No Steenk'n Yellow Guard Rails!
Yellow guard rails may have been a mistake. Introducing colour into the interior is pretty much at odds with the 40K genera The dark Gothic decor is depressingly
de rigueur and departures from this norm stand out as not really Warhammer worthy.
On the plus side positive replies from people that I consider very good painters is certainly encouraging although I would also welcome objective negative critiques as well.
I mean someone may find my colour choices less than acceptable?
I really like these little red guys.............
add danger stripes to the yellow then dull it with some washes. :D
That should help it get grim.
I would probably just weather the yellow down. No need for stripes. it will fit right in mate.
Okay we're going from how to paint handrails to.................
The Warlord Colour Scheme At Last:
(But true to form it won't be easy)
I have finally found a colour scheme I deem acceptable for my Warlord.
I was painting the black base coat and reflecting on the 'Avengers' movie when it struck me that the huge flying target aircraft carrier might give me some ideas on how to paint a large military vehicle. Googling images I instead found this (The aircraft carrier was painted like.... well an aircraft carrier; boring) the alien space craft from "Battleship", a movie I have never seen btw.......
Now I only have to figure out how to do it.....Ha!
Please Blackadder not another series of the Warlord in pieces..........
Yes but hopefully this will be the last time until the final assembly after painting.
Over the years of this build I have never completely disassembled all the umpity ump components that make up the two main structures of the model.
That being the torso and the leg main assemblies see below:
These structures slide easily apart via the center shaft for ease of transportation.
In the following posts today I shall be disassembling all the nonglued parts for black priming so the detail will be obscured until enhanced with highlighting.
Most noteworthy is I completely forgot to detail the bottom of the waist and the pelvis block.
First let me warn you you have to wear a dust mask when handling metal powder; I don't want yer mums sending me nasty emails saying the stuff gave junior Alzheimers.
After spray painting quite a few of the parts flat black today I tried rubbing in a bit of aluminum powder. A little goes a long way and all I used was the residue on the jar theads to do what is represented here.
This first shot from high angle shows the highly reflective quality of aluminum powder. Aluminum is one of the few silver coloured metals that retain it's silver colour when reduced to a talc dust particle size, most others turn black.
Just the dome and the top of the helmet was done in this image the rest of the head is still flat black.
The breast plate and back panel are highly reflective as well but for some reason do not show as shiny in these images.
With no direct light the silver still is highly reflective but still gives a nice shading effect to the deeper recesses, something paint doesn't do, I should have my head examined for trying this out on such a prominent piece.
I tried brushing it on (still using just what is in the threads of the jar) and it applies just as readily with a brush as with a finger.
Once applied it stays put although I'm sure it can be removed with soap and water as it comes off your fingers readily enough when washed.....
In all a satisfactory experiment, I still have the copper and the brass dust to try and some steel blue dust for contrast...
I may never use paint again.
Sorry to tout my own horn but; Whoa!!!! This is what I was looking for. I wish the camera could show precisely what I am seeing in person because the highlights and colour shift as you look over the piece are breathtaking.
At the very least Chrsygon / Dirty Harry looks like he's made of pewter and I couldn't be more pleased.
The gluing damage where I first glued the veneer to the cheek armour replicates battle damage and dents from normal wear and tear perfectly; just what you would expect from millennia of service.
Most of what you see was applied in ten minutes hand rubbed into the basic black matte spray paint with no prep.
This last shot shows the base coat and the edge of the finished cheek where I stopped to take these images.
Note the colour shift due to slightly different angle of the light source.
This is precisely what I was looking for as a finish for this model.
Plus, Instant Patine
Not All Beer and Skittles:
or The Black Adder holds nothing back...........
Just to show my humility this series of images demonstrate my fallibility. Yesterday I posted images of my first attempt at a new (to me) technique that I stumbled upon quite by accident; in other words I found no instructions on the 'net demonstrating the howto and pitfalls of working with powdered metal.
Today I shall be showing my mistakes:
First I made the mistake of working in front of my computer so everything has a fine coating of aluminum powder that only ingrains itself if rubbed. Make sure you work in an environment that does not matter if it has a metal sheen when you are finished.
I have since moved my operation to the kitchen. :D
Second I touted the availability of this powder. I bought mine a few years ago when I was building Lucie my Warhound at that time I was looking for a dry material for the pistons that would act as a lubricant and allow them to telescope freely and the aluminum served the purpose admirably.
Well I did a search on the 'net and the company that produced the material appears to no longer produce the material thanks no doubt to the extreme 'Nanny-statism of the location of the company i.e. California. I have not yet found an alternative source so I'll post a link to the company's web page.....
If you can find the product there, let me know.
Third I took some flash images of the work completed and although the eye cannot discern the difference apparently what is under the powder changes the albedo of the surface giving the two tone helmet/visor/face mask look under flash;
not a big problem for me now that I have discovered it because I already had decided to try to sand off the striations on the brow and give the helmet a redo.
Lastly I stated that I bought this products from 'Sipersteins' paint store; judging by the stick on pricing tag(s) this product had remained on the shelf for quite some time before being bought by me. (Few stores mark prices on items anymore)* I am willing to bet that it is no longer commercially available because of presumed toxicity. (While I took obvious precautions of nose filter and dust mask) I imagine this product would not be a good choice of topping for your breakfast cereal.
The same mentality that enforces mindless choking laws on kids' toys (Don't these kids play outside where, "Horrors!" lethal pebbles and acorns lurk and abound..., and mandatory headgear of bike riders has pulled products of this kind from the market even for the use by competent adults.......
Thank you Nanny State.
* When bar codes were first introduced people complained that they did not have any idea what the items cost so shelf marking tags were legislated with the following law introduced that, "If the product does not have a shelf tag stating the price and unit price/weight the store is bound to give you the item for free."
Does that law still apply? Has anyone tested that law lately? How many times have you picked up a product that was mislabeled only to find it costing more at the register. Do you fight for the discount? or let it go?
Afghanistan Banana Stand:
Since the albedo so manifested itself in the flash I now can perceive the difference so there is nothing for it but to redo the helmet and whilst doing attempt to remove the unsightly striations in the brow. I first scrapped off the old layers of paint down to where the seams were not visible. A few nicks won't matter;
I then wet sanded the brow to remove the scraps. The good new is the wet sanding got water on the powder but did not compromise it in the least so water won't damage the finish even without sealing.
Next I'll let it dry overnight and apply a base coat of black tomorrow followed tomorrow with an application of aluminum powder.
Banana included for scale.............
An Impromptu Filler:
On occasion I have to resort to patching or filling poorly mated seams such as on the helmet where the base plate is ragged where it meets the lower edge of the brow. Now I could fill the gap with 'Greenstuff' and wait for it to dry, and sand it off but who has the time.
Here's a trick that is ready to sand in minutes, durable and cheap.
I amass some styrene sanding residue, (In this case I just cleaned the plastic dust off of my sanding blocks.) into a small pile on my work board. I then applied the thinset cement to the offending gap and dipped the glue engorged seam into the pile of styrene dust. A few repeats of the process fills the gap with the identical material as the original styrene which the can be sanded and painted just as the original piece.
A simple yet effective solution.
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