More of the Same:
Jeez Blackadder enough already.
I'm sorry to post so many updates on virtually the same thing but I put a lot of effort into the cockpit and it would be a shame to not show the finished product.
Wait Blackadder you mean to say the interior will be Black?
Well no but as it stand right now perhaps so grey highlights scuffs on the walkways and probably painting the buttons.
Besides, 'Red October' had a black interior and that looked kinda cool. The beige US sub interior Meh, not so much.
So in true Burlesque fashion we'll take it down; cue the music......
Well At Least I've Moved On:
Today's update is rather small but at least I've moved on to a different section of the interior.
The down side is I spent my full allotted building time to painting the Adeptus Mechanicus altar.
Since the entire interior at this moment is flat black I used a flash but the flash washed out the varied shades of metallic paint applied.
Next, the Tech Priest.
Bringing You a Better Warlord Since the Advent of the 21st Century:
In the 2 plus years I have been working on this project one of the items I have been less than enthused about was the wimpy primary weapons stanchions so today I addressed that issue with a beefier stanchion and a re-engineered rotating base.
Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and purchase a 'made' item that fulfills the desired requirements and is compact enough to be practical, for this application anyway.
The Panduit universal couplings are relatively expensive and totally impractical for their intended purpose since they invariably fatigue and crack more readily than comparable metal connections. Still they do have a businesslike appearance for my particular purposes. They swivel 360° and with the new mount assembly I came up with allow the guns to rotate easier with less stress on the shoulder mount.
I skipped the 3/4 inch mount and went directly to the 1 inch mount doubling the diameter of the stanchion and trebling the mass.
At last Biceps that would do Hemsworth proud.
Close to three years into these various projects and I still have to practice making components.
No one has ever asked what the cutouts in the engineering and the command deck
They are suppose to be observation ports to view the weapons, ground defense and monitor the legs.
Anyway I need to practice welding the clear styrene and this was my first attempt.
One problem is the glue runs everywhere it's not suppose to but doesn't dissolve the clear panels quickly or strongly enough. Also the clear styrene is much more brittle than the plain white sheets.
Below the cooling radiators for the nuclear fusion fluid and the interior of the reactor bay panels are the first to receive paint. I have always thought the radiator cores should be copper or brass in colour and it's a good place to practice how I am going to paint the mechanical parts of the titan...........
Idée Fixe :
Many thanks for all the suggestions, in point of fact I have considered each previously which is why I have left this project to last. Vacuum-formed packets were my first consideration but the shape I wanted has not been forthcoming in spite of a three year quest plus they are not styrene glue compatible.
I have always had in mind a faceted shaped window and nothing less than styrene would do.
Utilizing my prototype for a form I cut and glued the first interstice after beveling the fine edges.
Using a 50/50 mix of Testor's model cement (Red Label) and Ambroid ProWeld solvent; the former for viscosity and the latter for penetration and strength I applied a thin bead to both panes and set aside to dry.
Tenting the dried panels on the form I am ready to sand the end facet beveled edges.
While we are on the subject of making windows this is a good opportunity to demonstrate how I cut clear styrene.
Clear styrene is rather more brittle than white styrene so you can save yourself a lot of grief by not trying to cut around corners or curves, chances are the sheet will shatter and always in the wrong way.
Plan your work and cut only straight cuts; this may seem wasteful but much less so than failed angled or curved cuts.
First I measured the width of the strip I required; in this case 17 MM.
I scratched a small marker where I wanted the cut to be:
Employing my utility knife and a fairly accurate combination square I scored a fine line on the surface of the clear styrene. I would suggest a hard surface and not a foam cutting mat as shown here but the cutting mat shows the scored line better.
Once you have the scored line, you can either remove the square or chance deepening the score with repeated passes with the knife but bear in mind that each pass increases the possibility of slipping or cracking the styrene.
I removed the square after the second pass and then after relied on the depth of the score to keep the knife from slipping.
I made half a dozen more passes until the score was deep enough to attempt snapping the line.
Try to snap the line gently and evenly apply pressure along the length of the cut instead of a localized point.
If it seems you need undue pressure score the line deeper rather than applying more pressure which could shatter the sheet.
The result is a cleanly cut strip.
A Quorum of Tech Priests:
Well at least enough for a rubber of Whist; my home-made tech priests appear very red indeed and washed out in this light which belies the drybrushing of red over rust over black and the singular pains I took to texture the folds of the cloaks.
I'm hoping that when the garments are finished they reflect the work that went into them because at the moment they look like crap.
A Journey of a Thousand Miles...........
.......begins with a single step as Confucius is purported to have said.
After much procrastination and contemplation I have finally decided on a course of action regarding the paint scheme of Luteus Vexant.
Dave Smith took a lot of heat about the camouflage paint job he used on his Warlord which incidentally I think is beautiful and about as perfect a covering as could be but I hesitate to copy his work that closely. Therefore I will uses shades of grays and blues but in a more weathered pattern than a camo pattern. Streaks of grays and rust with weathered blue hints of the original colour applied ages ago.
So first a coat of black prime.................
Dud or Not to Me:
I can't decide if I like this or not. I'm painting the underside of the carapace components first to get practice when I get to the outer armour and more visible mechanisms of the model. First everything looked too dark so I dry brushed some streaks of gray primer on the left hand side bay panel to compare to the right side that doesn't have brushed primer. That lightened it up a tad.....
I mistakenly used metallics paint on the core radiators and that won't do at all.
On the other hand the Tech Priests are looking better gilt trimmed and the Captain Nemo Nautilus style computer consoles make a nice touch.
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