The previous posts were not a complaint or a lament but a public service note to anyone attempting to build a Titan. The intelligent modeler doesn't do things the way I do.
Witness, I haven't the vaguest idea were anything goes in the interior and just a hint of intuition on the relative size of the interior compartments. I feel the engineering department would be low and centrally located consuming two levels.
The magazine storage for non-energy weapons would be above the armament on each side and a belt feed to the firing chamber. There would probably be a fire/targeting control room for each weapon.
The Bridge/Command deck behind the cockpit is a gimme likewise the void generator placement above the carapace shoulders.
So with that in mind the basic internal structure will be as imaged below.
well they're plastic now but the idea is the same.
I'll sleep on it.
Thanks for the info #@$%^$!
Whoops, forgot the reason for this post installed the hinged side panels for the Engineering department. The ceiling will have indirect lighting and the rear panel will be removable for viewing........
Today was kind of a dress up and trim the various panels prior to building the head and neck and compartment directly behind the head whatever that area might be.
I also installed the torso on the legs for a scale reference which appears satisfactory. The cutouts in the hinged side panels will be observation ports to view the working of the legs and arms and will have clear styrene glazing so the interior lights will illuminate the underside of the carapace and the detail.
This is a fantastic display of comitment and hobby ability on your part, keep at it! Its looking fantastic!
Due to a casual suggestion from one of my readers I have been side tracked making the damned head movable. Until that time I was blissfully unaware the the head had the capacity for movement.
Given that the compartments are essentially rectangular I saw little cause to make the neck tubular as was my first inclination. It was so much easier to adapt the double axle premise I used on the hip joints. The images below demonstrate the mobility of the neck in the up and down movement while the truncated triangle will mount the axle for the side to side movement.
The whole Head/Neck module will be removable on the finished product and is mounted on three slides per side to insert it into the torso with a very close tolerance fit in point of fact I may have to sand it down before it is painted.
This little side project was very time consuming but the psychological effect is overwhelming. Imagine the last thing the target sees before being blasted into oblivion is that great head slewing around servo motors humming malevolently to transfix the hapless victim with a steely heartless crimson stare even as the plasma weapons begin to glow in prelude to firing.
Those hips and the pelvis besides being reinforced with steel hardware are solid laminated plasticard. I'm hoping they will stand the weight. My primary concern is the axle locking mechanism standing the weight/arm moment.
I notice from your text that a number of you are having a bit of problem with sanding. Forgive me from stating what you may already know but the information may be useful to those who follow these threads. I use two methods to sand: first on a flat and true surface such as a Formica counter top I lay a full sheet of coarse sandpaper; good stuff such as 3M aluminum oxide paper 60 grit. Next I sand only in one direction. If you sand back and forth you can't help but start rocking and end up with a convex cut. anytime you sand or file, only cut in one direction.
My second method of sanding is a square and true sanding block. I cut half a dozen of these 5/4 by 3 inch by 6 inch blocks many years ago and affixed the sandpaper (3M aluminum oxide) with 2 inch double back tape. when the paper wears out I peel it of and apply new. Again only sand in one direction and it is helpful to rest the piece to be sanded on the table so your cut is clean and true. I also use a steel emery board for tight places although I lost my best one in the move..........Drat!
Once the piece approaches the scribed or penciled line I switch to a medium grit paper for the final dressing. As the edge will probably have glue solvent applied it isn't necessary to use any finer than medium grit. Once glued and the edge is square but must be beveled I use medium or fine paper on block to true the edge.
I also use a really good and clean single cut file with a medium and fine tooth again only file in one direction not back and forth.
Although I have stated this tutorial before it bears repetition.
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