Greetings! It's time for another tutorial, as we go through the various Chaos forces. This tutorial will focus on The Great Unclean One (GUO) - Oh yeah, it's time to pus this place up!
Being that said, this tutorial can be used step by step to paint Plaguebearers as well. Both the GUO and Plaguebearers contain the same elements, so this really is a 2-in-1 tutorial. We will, however, focus on the GUO for the pictures.
So without further ado, before we get started, this is what you need and can expect:
Warning: This tutorial requires a large collection of paints. If you just started painting, contact me and I will try to give you a version that requires less paints than this.
The end-result will be the following, in terms of quality and paint-theme:
Before we begin
Roughly 5-6 hours, depending on skill level.
Above tabletop standard - I'd say medium quality.
Skill level required
Beginners / Experienced.
- Thinning down paints
- Technical paints
Paints required (Games Workshop line):
- Chaos Black (Spraycan primer)
- Matt Medium (Medium)
- Death World Forest (Layer)
- Nurgling Green (Layer)
- Ushabti Bone (Layer)
- Cadian Fleshtone (Layer)
- Daemonette Hide (Layer)
- Leadbelcher (Layer)
- Brass Scorpion (Layer)
- Nuln Oil (Shade)
- Agrax earthshade (Shade)
- Druchi Violet (Shade)
- Carroburg Crimson (Shade)
- Biel-Tan Green (Shade)
- Seraphim Serpia (Shade)
- Nurgles Rot (Technical)
- Typhus Corrosion (Technical)
- Ryza Rust (Technical)
- Nihilakh Oxide (Technical)
- Matt Varnish (Pick whichever you prefer - I use the Matt varnish spray from Armypainter personally)
- Gloss Varnish (Again, pick whichever you prefer. This needs to be a paintpot though, as we will be using it on details. I use Vallejo Gloss varnish myself)
Now those of you who have read some of my previous tutorials know that I work with a 3 layer process when doing skin. We will be doing the same here, and I will go into as much detail as possible so as many readers can follow this process as possible.
Before we continue, I should also point out for those fairly new out there, that paints straight out of the pot can be a bit thick and blotchy. I always recommend that you thin them down just a tad especially when painting the first steps here, as you can risk having a too thick coat of paint and ruining the little details. I would recommend thinning them down roughly 1:4 water:paint ratio.
First off, prime the model in Chaos Black
and (after thinning it down) paint the entire body in Death World Forest
. Luckily it's a dark green, so it should cover in the first coat for you, bringing you to this stage:
He's already pretty sickly, isn't he? Well we need to turn him even more disgusting, so it's time to play with our shades. Therefore, it's time to give him a heavy wash of Aggrax Earthshade
. Don't be stingy with the wash, as the more wash you use, the heavier shadows you will get on the model. Do be carefull with the sores and wounds though, as too much will blotch out the paint and just make them all dark.
After he has dried (probably takes around 30 minutes) he should look like this:
That's better. But w can do better. Therefore, it's time we grab out Bieal-Tan Green
and get to it. However, this time you need to do a really thin layer, as it's simply to give him some color. The shadows are done by the previous step, so be carefull with your shade this time - Easy does it.
After he has dried, he should look like this:
So now we got the base down. If you're running out of patience, I urge you to take a break at this point and return later, as we are about to do the most time consuming part of the miniature, that will require patience on your part; We need to give him some definition. And this is where Medium comes into the picture.
For the next step, we will make a 1/1 mix of Death World Forest/Matt Medium
. The solution will be quite runny compared to what you're used to at this point, so it's important to take this next step nice and slow. A good tip is that the more medium you use to thin the paints, the less they will cover per layer, but the transition from color to color will be better. So it's all up to your own patience how much you wish to use. With the mix I provided, it will cover in the first go and the transitions will be nice to the eye.
You will notice that we use the original basecolor now, and that's because the model has been shaded so much, that it's a natural color to return to. We will paint all the parts of the miniature that would get hit by light, and define the muscles, sacks etc. If in doubt where to paint it, you can always hold the model closely under a lightsource and see where it falls naturally. The more detailed you do it, the more advanced the model will look when you're done.
After you have done with this stage, you should have a result that looks roughly like this:
Now we're getting somewhere! He's got his shadows down and he's starting to look really good. At this point, you can either leave him as it, or you can do one more layer - I do one more layer (3-layer step and all) so I would recommend you do so as well. Here, have a cookie and let's try it.
For the last shade, we will use a 1/1/1 mix of Death World Forest / Nurgling Green / Matt Medium
. We will repeat the process as before, but cover a little less of the same areas. Make the lines thinner, so that you can see both the dark and the layer you just did. This will increase the effect of lighting on the specific area.
After this is done, he should look roughly like this:
And that's it for the skin. We got that sickly green skintone down and you got dark and light shades on him. That was the worst part of the miniature and it's all uphill from here, don't worry ;)
Eeeew: The sores and wounds
Now, the GUO model is a nasty one. He's covered with wounds, entrails, boils and other ickies. It's time to make them stand out a bit - We will start at this stage and they will also be the very final touch on the miniature later one, with the technical paints.
Now before we continue, this next bit is what I like to call "Painters purgatory". We will base the various parts first, making them look incredibly dull compared to the skin, before we wash them. It is at this stage that you will probably start doubting if you just ruined your hard work with sloppy coloring, but just trust me on this one. It will get better!
We will paint all the following bits with Cadian Fleshtone
Now this step can be a bit annoying as Cadian Fleshtone doesn't fully cover a dark green. So you might need to do 2 layers of each little icky. The entrails and wounds with little rims can be annoying as you can have a hard time getting the paint to fully cover everything. Just take it slow and return to it later if you get frustrated. You do not want to rush this.
After that is done, you will have it look like this:
Yeah, I know. It looks like something a lepper chewed on and spat back out. So for the sake of peace of mind, we will shade these right away. We will be using Carrobourg Crimson
Now when you're doing this stage, keep two things in mind; A heavy load is always ok and you need to think of these things as wounds. You remember when you got your knee scraped as a kid and it got infected? The red wasn't just in the wound, but also the surrounding skin as it hurt like hell. We need to use that memory to paint this thing, as he's the walking embodiment of infections - In short, we need to use the red shade to not just color the wounds and sores, but also the surrounding skin of it.
Be liberal with the shade and try to cover a area around each sore and blister, so you get that infected look. You should end up with a result roughly like this, after it has dried:
If you want to add that last "EEEW!" to it, you can even take your Ushabti Bone
and thin it down alot. Paint the very top of the biggest boils, so you make them look like they're about to pop.
Making it look more alive: Mouth, bones and maggots
Now we're almost done with the physical parts of the model. So before we head on over to the weapons and the last technical details, let's get the mouth, bones and maggots done.
Firstly, let's do the mouth as that's a quick story; We base the inner mouth (yeah, I never thought I'd say that) and tongue with Daemonette Hide
and wash it with Druchi Violet
. After that has dried, it should look like this:
Right, now it's time for another hit in the nuts from the Painters Purgatory; We're going to do the bones and maggots.
We will paint all of these with Ushabti Bone
. As with the fleshparts, this paint most likely won't cover completely in the first go, especially on the nails and bone parts, so you will probably need 2 layers.
You should end up with a result similar to this:
My god, it looks like we let a 5 year old with a painting pot loose on this thing. Let's shade them up quickly: Give the bones parts a heavy load of Aggrax Earthshade
and the maggots a light shade of Seraphim Serpia
, bring your model to this stage:
Aaaah that's better. You can choose to drybrush the tip of the bones with Ushabti Bone
to give them a bit of color transition, like I did later on (I forgot to take a picture). I would recommend a small drybrush for this, so you don't hit any other parts of the mini as it would really suck to get some on the skin at this stage.
And that's it for the body of the model for now. We will finish him off at the last stage, with the technical paints, so it's time to look at his weapons!
A touch of rust; The weapons
Before we continue, I have to state that this stage is based a lot on the painter owning the GW technical paints mentioned in the paint list. If you do not have these, then this next part will be much different for you, but I will try to propose alternatives.
Right, the first thing we do is to base the weapons - We will base the blade and the chains in Leadbelcher
and the handle and skulls in Brass Scorpion
They will now look like this:
For the next bit we will use a the first technical paint on the metal parts: Typhus Corrosion
. The paint is a bit different to others you may have used, as it's quite runny - But with little bits of texture in it. It's basically like painting with water that has a bit of sand in it. It is therefore recommended that you use a older brush, as the paint can be rough on the brush.
(If you do not own Typhus Corrosion, this step can be achieved by taking a color similar to Rhinox Hide, thinning it down in a 2/1 Matt medium / Rhinox Hide mix and put in a bit of sand in the mix. It will not be completely the same, but the effect will be similar.)
We will cover the blade and the chain with Typhus Corrion and try to make it various thickness on the various parts. Not everything needs to be completely covered, as rust rarely covers everything equally.
On the brass parts we give it a shade of Nuln Oil
, to give it some definition. After everything has dried, it will look like this:
Now for the orange part. Here we will use the Ryza Rust
technical paint. It is a thick paint so it's basically useless to shake the pot - It's made for drybrushing, so that's what we're gonna do!
(If you do not own Ryza Rust, you can also use the Troll Slayer Orange for this step. It's a normal paint though, so be a bit more careful with the drybrushing)
We will drybrush the areas that we just covered with Typhus Corrosion, and try to make it a bit varied, so it rusted unequally on the entire blade. The texture provided with Typhus Corrosion will shine through now and give the metalparts a nice and rough edge.
Be carefull with this stage, as we're dealing with a extremely potent orange color, that can quickly be overpowering. You need to do it in longer sessions and not get too impatient.
Once you're done, it should look like this:
Now that looks awesome doesn't it? However, it's hard to spot the metal underneath. This is purely a personal taste issue, but I prefer to give it a last drybrush to make it truly shine - You can either leave it as is, or do this.
I will give it a extremely light drybrush of Leadbelcher
to just give it a bit of a mettalic feel. This is very very VERY light, so be carefull with this, as you can also ruin the drybrushing job you just did. Easy does it.
I will drybrush the areas that might scrape the ground, the armor of his foes or the like. In essence the parts that might have a chance to have the rust scraped off.
That's it for the rust parts. Now it's time to turn our attention to the brass handles and the skulls; These are far too nice for a GUO aren't they? We need to do something about that.
Therefore we grab our Nihilakh Oxide
technical paint and get to work. You will notice that this paint is extremely thin (almost like a shade) but it will cover quite nicely. It can need some practice, so just take it nice and slow.
(If you do not own Nihilakh Oxide, you can also thin down a 1/1 mix of Templeguard Blue / Skull White and use this. It needs to be runny like water though, so you need to thin it down immensly!)
Now at this stage i can recommend that you google "oxinized brass" and look at the images. When brass oxidized, it does so in a specific fashion, where it's mostly the creaks that gets the oxidation. We will therefore be focusing on the creaks and crannies of the handle and skulls.
After having done them all, you should end up with a result roughly like this, after the paint has dried:
Noww it's starting to look like something. However, as with the rust, I like to add a little drybrushing at the end. We will therefore do the same as we did with the final part of the blade, and use our Brass Scorpion
This also brings back the shine of the metal, and give it's a nice final touch.
And that's it for the weapons - Now they're suitable rusty and oxidized and they actually look like something you definately do NOT want to get hit by.
The last splouch: Puss and rot
Before we continue, I need to point out that these last stages are to be done AFTER
you have done your base of your model and given it a varnish spray. Basically, you need to take a time out, complete the base of the model, spray it all with a matt varnish and THEN
continue with this step.
You can also easily stop now by the way - You will still have a model that looks like this:
You see that? Yeah, it's definitely ready for using it on the tabletop so if you decide to stop now, you still got a very nice looking mini! if you decide to take the last step here, then we will be using the last of our techincal paints, and my personal favorite; Nurgles Rot
Let me just get this out of the way; I freaking love this paint. It's simply a need-to-have when doing Nurgle units and it's very easy to work with. It's quite thick for a paint, but not in a annoying way - It flows easily, is easy to work with and it covers nicely. One thing to remember when using this, is that it dries to roughly half the thickness of when it is applied, so it is recommended to give the areas needed a layer, let it dry and then evaluate if you want to add some more various places.
(Is you do not own Nurgles Rot, then you need to go out and get it now. Simple as that - there's no alternative. Shame on you!)
We will be using it on the following things:
- The mouth
- The tongues
- The open wounds
- The open blisters (only the open ones. Leave the blisters that haven't... popped yet)
- The entrails
- The ground where he has walked
You might ask why we use this AFTER we have matt varnished him. The reason for this, is that the Nurgles Rot dries with a gloss in it. It's half the effect and it also acts as a varnish at the same time. Therefore we need to apply it on top of the matt varnish, as otherwise it doesn't look very good.
After it has dried, it should look like this:
Note that some of these areas (entrails, spine, mouth) have gotten several layers in my photo. But look at that - How can you not love that? Pappa Nurgle would be proud of all that goo, puss and ooze!
As a very last touch, before we have completed the model, we will use a gloss varnish on all the boils that haven't popped yet, giving them a glinsing look. You can also use this on the skin around the open wounds, if you haven't used the Nurlges Rot there yet.
After having done this, you will end up with the final result: One nasty look Great Unclean One:
Closing the tutorial
So I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial and found it useful. Nurgle units can be a tough thing to pull off, as they are more.. fluent than a lot of models. I hope I helped out, and please do post your results in this thread, so everyone can see the various versions that pops out of this little tutorial!
Until next time!