Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums - Reply to Topic
Thread: Priming/Clear Sealing Rack Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-15-11 04:30 PM
Djinn24 Looks awesome! Very nice rack.
10-15-11 12:58 PM
apidude Excellent idea. It beats my approach of standing them on top of a box hands down.
Keep up the good work.
10-15-11 12:43 PM
Cypher871 Nice little idea mate. Thanks for sharing
10-15-11 03:54 AM
Crimson Shadow
Priming/Clear Sealing Rack

Greetings, and welcome to my little tutorial.

To give you a little background. I tend to build my model's to 100% then prime and paint them. This, as you can imagine, leads to some areas that are hard to prime and subsequently clear coat. I came up with this rack as a means to help me with that.

After building 3 of these, I've learned a few things, so I'm going to tell you what I did, and then what I recommend.


Here's what you'll need:

1"x2" board, at least 6 feet long, more if you want more racks.
1/4" wood screws
Clip on Name Badges (pics provided)






1. Cut the boards to desired length.
I did 21.5", although I recommend adding at least another 6" to that length to allow for a handle on either side.






2. Remove the rivets that hold the name clip badges to the clips. I used a pair of wire cutters.




3. Determine your preferred spacing between your mounts.

I did 2", I recommend a little more. Some of your more dynamically posed, or your larger models eat up that gap.






4. Place the board vertically. (Narrow face down)



5. Measure down from the edge of the board 9/16" and make a pencil mark. Screw in your first clip. The clip should stick up above the edge of the board approximately 1/4". (note, these measurements are for the clips shown in the picture, your clips may vary)



6. Line up a clip on the opposite side of the board and screw it in.

Repeat this process until you have as many clips as you want/have space for. I had 8 holders and a 5.5" handle.



When finished it should look something like this:





You can now clip the base into these holders. One clip goes on each side of the base of your model.





For larger bases, such as terminators, you will clip in one side and then use one of the round anchor holes on the bottom of the base for the other clip.

Metal Terminator Librarian


Grey Knight Terminator



I have used these many times. They easily hold both plastic and pewter models even if held upside down. I have also used them to hold a metal Ogryn upside down.








One alteration I've contemplated, but have not yet tried, is to drill holes between the clips; sized to allow the clear plastic verticals (like for Destroyers, Tau Drones, etc), this would allow me to fix these type models to the rack and make it easier to prime them.


Hope you find these useful.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome