Blackadder's Lucius Pattern Warhound Titan - Page 3 - Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums
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post #21 of 271 (permalink) Old 07-31-09, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Witch King of Angmar View Post
Awesome work man! +rep!!

Also i officaly hate forge world as well, my vampire hunter's hull is warped in the one spot that takes a heatgun to fix with only a 75% chance of destroying the whole model
Thanks for the reps and the reply Witch King. I managed to screw up the muzzle of this beast and had to redo it which set me back a day or two but the problem has been remedied and I am starting on the detail of the head. Here is the result as of this date.

Now that I'm fairly satisfied with the overall proportions the fine detail should progress rapidly (When I find the time.)

First of all I thickened up the armor on the muzzle after reangling the side panels on the snout



I tacked on the top of the head armor because I will be removing it to install the windows and windshield after painting



The following images are of the underside of the head. I had no idea that area was so detailed as not one of the pictures I've seen showed anything but a glimpse of this section of the model. I have a benefactor on another forum who graciously provided some images of this detail.









E. Blackadder

Last edited by Blackadder; 07-31-09 at 08:32 PM.
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post #22 of 271 (permalink) Old 07-31-09, 09:43 PM
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daaaamn, that looks like a lot of work. Is that your first scratchbuild? because the detailing is awesome. Im just starting out scratchbuilding, but im starting a bit smaller.

this will be great reference when(more likely if) i start building my own titan.

keep at it, too late to go back now!

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Ah... the simpler times of the 1960's. When pedophilia wasn't frowned upon.
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post #23 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-01-09, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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daaaamn, that looks like a lot of work. Is that your first scratchbuild? because the detailing is awesome. Im just starting out scratchbuilding, but im starting a bit smaller.

this will be great reference when(more likely if) i start building my own titan.

keep at it, too late to go back now!
I've been building wooden ship models for years and only in the past year or so been modeling in plastic. I started refurbishing junk I bought on ebay decrepit Baneblades and the like. Once I got a good background in rebuilding and repairing I custom detailed an old Armorcast Baneblade to look like a Forgeworld Baneblade.

From this:


To this:


To ultimately this:


My first real scratch build project was a copy of a Titan Hunter I saw on EBay:

This was on Ebay:


And this was my version:

I've gotta take a better picture of this model. Too much india ink on the treads.

I personally wouldn't start small. It's just as hard to do a really fine detailed small model as a big one. You can knock yourself out faithfully reproducing a $10 buck model and all you'll have is a copy of a ten buck model or you can faithfully replicate a $450 dollar model and have a masterpiece.

But that's just my opinion,

Blackadder

Last edited by Blackadder; 08-01-09 at 05:19 PM.
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post #24 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-03-09, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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I started this project attempting to build a Warhound facsimile for my son out of foam filled board but the more I got into it the more I wanted to have a realistic copy of the original. I have departed from the original design in a few areas especially the shield generator housings in the back which looked a bit small and blocky on the original. Mine are larger and I think more in keeping with the overall sleekness of the rest of the model; the carapace at least.

I'm not too worried about the legs any more; I believe they are within a millimeter of accuracy in diameter and length. my major concern is the hip ball joints which are 3mm too small in diameter although it's hard to see the difference. I've left the waist for last in detailing as I still am looking for a ball 2.57cm in diameter.

Below are the images of the model to date:






















once again thanks for the replies and input,

E. Blackadder
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post #25 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-05-09, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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More underside detail.

Purists will note that I departed from the original in the aux servo compartments albeit through necessity as my carapace ceiling is over 1.3cm thick. this is because originally I used 1/2 foam core poster board as it was to be a trial build for practice.

It came out so well I decided to just skin it in sheet styrene and let it go at that forgetting the extra thick ceiling; whoops. Came the time to add the detail and lo and behold there was not enough recess depth for the actual compartment components. Even I drew the line at completely rebuilding the carapace so hence my amended version.

Sue me for laziness but at this point I just want to see the d---ed thing done,

Blackadder



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post #26 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-05-09, 04:54 PM
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Wow dude ur the KING! The ONLY and i mean ONLY ONLY ONLY bad thing i have to say about this is not quality but the following:
How much have u spent on material for it? Wouldnt it of been easier and less time consumming just to buy the Forge World one?

BUt guarantied this is the VERY BEST titan scratch built ive ever seen!!!

Thought for the Day: Be just and fear naught
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post #27 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-05-09, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Wow dude ur the KING! The ONLY and i mean ONLY ONLY ONLY bad thing i have to say about this is not quality but the following:
How much have u spent on material for it? Wouldnt it of been easier and less time consumming just to buy the Forge World one?

BUt guarantied this is the VERY BEST titan scratch built ive ever seen!!!
Aye; there's the rub. I suppose I have $100.00US invested in this project. I can't count: paint or glue, or tools, sandpaper, knife blades, etc, epoxy filler and the like; as the Forge World kit would require all of those and then some which is pretty poor considering the disparity of cost. I still have most of the material I have purchased as the plasticard stock just supplements my usual inventory.

Time invested cannot be accounted for as this is a hobby and if I wasn't doing this project I'd be doing something in a similar vein. Again the FW model needs extensive rework to build the model properly. Might I refer you to an excellent manual that will take you over the pitfalls of building a FW Warhound.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/2670070/JGTBSv2

I have pictures of kits where the vent housing is more than 4.0mm askew and the leg components are of different lengths not to mention missing or damaged parts and a general poor quality of the moulding process. Mind you I would give my left nut for an Authentic FW Warhound but only a Chaos version where the discrepancies are not as noticeable.

I also wanted to do this model to see if I could make it pose-able. The big drawback to the Forge World model is once it's assembled you're pretty much stuck with the pose. The hydraulic cylinders have to be cut to length for the pose you decide on and the brittleness of the epoxy resin doesn't lend itself to articulation. All my leg and waist cylinders telescope to allow for a variety of poses and the wisdom of that effort is yet to be determined. It did consume about half the time I've devoted to this model in making the various parts pose-able. Quite possibly a fool's pursuit.

But there it is,

The Blackadder

Regarding the design: I've made a few structural changes that make the model more aesthetically pleasing to my eye while still keeping the overall look and complexity the same so the casual observer won't likely notice the differences.
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post #28 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-05-09, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for the words of encouragement. I've been agonising over the following step and trying to figure out how to make a proper ring of plastic around the orbit of the ankle and hip ball socket receptacle and the following is how I finally managed to accomplish it.



Surprisingly simplicity itself but the most obvious somehow escapes us. I started by gluing with a good grade of thin liquid plastic glue. I use 'Tamiya - Extra Thin Cement :



I glued the selected piece to the periphery of the socket using the installed ball as an inner guide. fortunately I used wooden spheres so they are not affected by the glue. I imparted a slight curve to the ring strip initially and started a bit before the desired location so the beginning end could be cut off leaving a curved beginning.



Applying pressure with your thumb (or favorite finger) serves two purposes; one it is a clamp you can rely on to make the proper curve and two the heat of your hand speed the drying of the glue.



Following the curve of the ball make gluing every 30 degrees or so being careful to not let the glue flow back to the starting point as it may dissolve the original joint and you'll have to start over.



working your way around the ball to the starting point, cut off the short straight piece from the beginning and cut the end of the strip to butt with the beginning and voila; a perfect ring of plastic.



I needed a second ring to thicken the ring on the ankle and hip but the second layer is easier than the first and my only complaint is why didn't I think of this sooner.

The mentally challenged Blackadder
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post #29 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-06-09, 12:38 AM
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That is some impressive craftsmanship, Blackadder. Very impressive. I'll enjoy observing the rest of your progress. I'm sure it'll look epic when it's completed.
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post #30 of 271 (permalink) Old 08-06-09, 03:38 AM
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Like i love this thing SOOO much and the cost so far is NOTHING compared to the FW one and this one has ALOT more heart into it. I just hope that these words and all of the others as well will give you that EXTRA bit of motivation to finish. We love your work so keep us posted wth lots of pics.

-Jason-

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