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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-09, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default Quick Question Regarding Green Stuff

I was wondering if any of you green stuffers out there could tell me something: Is green stuff sandable? I have some damaged vehicles and am trying to figure out what the best method for patching holes is. I need a product that will fare in smooth with a little help from some 320 grit sandpaper. I don't want to use bondo, there's enough of that on my car...
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 12:52 AM
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I've found it clogs my needle files pretty quickly, but other than that, it sands alright so long as you're not looking for a particularly sharp edge.



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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 02:01 AM
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it sands fine. Just make sure you let it dry for about 12 hours first, otherwise it can be a little grainy.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 07:53 AM
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For filing and sanding, I prefer "Squadron green" putty - it sets much harder than GS, but its active ingredient IS toluene (the same ingredient in the old Testors dullcoat that got it pulled from EU stores) and may be harder to get in some parts of the world (usually available from good specialist model stores).

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you gentlemen. I guess I'll go ahead and try the green stuff. Gonna try sanding in steps, first 120 for removal, then 220 for finish, followed by 320 for fine finish. Should look alright.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 12:21 PM
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It really depends on what you want the end result to look like after painting,If you want the damaged pannel to look exactly like an undamaged panel then i would use a harder filler like miliput fine and some 600 plus grit paper, i used this combo for FW model tanks,if your gonna use green stuff i would mix it with more of the hardener in it as the standard mix of 50/50 blue and yellow i think will be too soft to sand well,but im not sure which colour is the hardener?
Milliput its quite good for filling and sanding as its water solluable so its easy to remove excess on flat surfaces keeping sanding to a minimal,you can use flat tools in dipped in water or a wet brush to smooth it into cracks, to be honest im surprised its not used more, alot cheaper than GS too.



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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 12:30 PM
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Blue is the hardener; if you mix it about 3:2 blue to yellow it should get QUITE hard. However, it also becomes harder to work with, the working time decreases, it's less sticky, ehhh. I would do a test run first, of mix/dry/sand on a piece of cardboard or something to make sure you will get the results you want.

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shocking, they do exactly what the codex says they do, who would of thought
lol.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loyalist42 View Post
I've found it clogs my needle files pretty quickly, but other than that, it sands alright so long as you're not looking for a particularly sharp edge.
I now this is off topic but.....if you preload your files with chalk, just ordinary blackboard chalk they will not clog as quickly. I know it works when filing soft metals such as pewter, copper and aluminum, so it should work when filing greenstuff.

Back on topic would wet sanding work better than dry sanding?

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 05:03 PM
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it leaves a slight residue when it dries, but it turns out smoother when I've done it. You have to be careful not to get the water all over though, cause when the water dries up it leaves essentially greenstuff dust on everything, and you can'tsee it when it's wet

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shocking, they do exactly what the codex says they do, who would of thought
lol.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-09, 06:17 PM
 
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Umm you should be able to sand it, just make sure you leave it for 12 hours minimum, so theres no chance of it popping out as your sanding it. And also make sure you go slow, beacuse making it perfectly level with the vehicle is going to take time, so be patient!

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