Metal Models - Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums
Modelling and Painting Discuss or display anything and everything regarding Terrain, Modelling and Painting here.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-09, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
selig's Avatar
selig's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 82
Reputation: 1
Default Metal Models

Hi I have a question. Sometimes when I buy a metal model there are lil bumps on them. Is there anyway I can remove them? I heard u have to soak metal models before u paint them in hot water. I just hate models with bumps on them :S. Thanks. Or would a hobby knife be enough?
selig is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-09, 04:02 PM
Spored to be Wild
 
morfangdakka's Avatar
morfangdakka's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,376
Reputation: 30
Default

Ah you youngsters being all spoiled on your plastic models, why i remember back in the day when all the models were metal and you metal shavings imbedded in fingers.

You don't have to soak metal models before painting them that is for resin models. Metal you just prime like you would plastic ones.

The little bumps can be remove many ways. The backside of a hobby knife usually works but make sure its the backside not the blade side because one slip and your on your way to ER to get your finger stiched back together and let me tell you its no fun try to explain how your little "accident" happened. Luckly my wife was there to tell them all about how I was assembling my little toy men when the event happened.

Now you can also buy small hobby files GW sells them but any hardware or hobby store sells the same ones for cheaper and you get many more. These are great for filing down small areas.

Sandpaper also great for filing down rough edges and bumps on models, its cheap and you get many different grates (roughnesses) of sand paper good for metal and platic models.

You can use a demel to grind down the bumps but I don't recommend this unless you are experenced with a dremel because one small wrong move and you have remove half the detail on the model.

So hope that helps metal models aren't that bad just pin them together and enjoy.


Red Orc
"Ahh, isn't Morfang sweet, like a great big 350-pound (that's 25 stone, UK users!) ball of cuddly death...?"


God, gives children to people so that death won't seem so disappointing.
morfangdakka is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-09, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
selig's Avatar
selig's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 82
Reputation: 1
Default Ty

Thanks mate! . I think I'll go with the sandpaper. Would the sandpaper be easier to use then the file? I am guessing so . I'll make a mental note never to get a hobby knife for getting bumps off . What do you mean by "Pin"

Thanks again,

S
selig is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-09, 07:05 PM
blahblahblahblah
 
Stella Cadente's Avatar
Stella Cadente's Flag is: Zaire
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: blahblahblahblah
Posts: 6,663
Reputation: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by morfangdakka View Post
You don't have to soak metal models before painting them that is for resin models. Metal you just prime like you would plastic ones.
actually yes, you really should, allot of times metal models will have a powder coating on them, or some grease from mold release, so always without exception wash metal models in WARM soapy water

as for the bumps..........the wha?

Stella Cadente is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-02-09, 11:45 PM
Senior Member
 
Vorag of Strigos's Avatar
Vorag of Strigos's Flag is: United Kingdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire, England
Posts: 108
Reputation: 1
Default

What I do is trim any extra peices from the mould, and then file down any remainder till it looks acceptable, I spent about half an hour per model checking my metal ones for extra bumps before I undercoat it, (tips for undercoating, wash it in a watered down paint to allow your undercoats to stick better)
Vorag of Strigos is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-03-09, 01:54 AM
Junior Member
 
Djinn24's Avatar
Djinn24's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Default

I always wash my metal models, as they too are notmally coated in mold release.

I use a diamond file and sandpaper for flash and vents.
Djinn24 is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-03-09, 02:04 AM
Senior Member
 
chromedog's Avatar
chromedog's Flag is: Australia
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Newcastle, OZ
Posts: 2,410
Default

I use wirecutters (proper metal cutting wirecutters from my local electronics store) to remove gates and vents from metal pieces. I then file and sand the remainder down.
After this, the models get a scrub with an old toothbrush in methylated spirits and are then washed in warm soapy water followed by clean water.

"pinning" is where you drill a hole in each part you wish to join (say an arm and a shoulder) and use a small metal rod to help hold thm together. This can be done with a pin vice and a small drillbit. And patience and a steady hand.

Hey! Where'd ... Everybody ... go?
chromedog is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-03-09, 06:01 AM
Senior Member
 
Vampboi's Avatar
Vampboi's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 189
Reputation: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chromedog View Post
"pinning" is where you drill a hole in each part you wish to join (say an arm and a shoulder) and use a small metal rod to help hold thm together. This can be done with a pin vice and a small drillbit. And patience and a steady hand.
I quickly grew impatient with my little GF9 hand drill with its uncomfortable handle. I got out the 18v cordless drill, variable speed of course, and power drilled out the holes for my pins in about 30 seconds, being very careful of course. I wouldn't do this without a variable speed drill (one you can pull the trigger just a bit and the speed the drill turns is very slow) as you would most likely drill all the way through your model. Or get yourself a dremel with some dremel drill bits. Don't use regular drill bits in a dremel if you can avoid it, they aren't made for the high speed rotations of a rotary tool. The same joints that took me 15mins to drill out before and left me with cramped hands are now down in about 30 seconds. And I haven't even destroyed any models.... yet lol.
Vampboi is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-03-09, 07:26 AM
Pally-HO!!!!
 
Captain Galus's Avatar
Captain Galus's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: The 909
Posts: 1,417
Reputation: 1
Default

Wirecutters are sploogetastic when it comes to refining metal models; just be careful with them because, like all sharp objects, they can end up in your eye if you screw around. I've never soaked any of my metal models...they all turned out fine. Of course, I prime them to so maybe that's the trick?

Captain Galus is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-03-09, 03:57 PM
Spored to be Wild
 
morfangdakka's Avatar
morfangdakka's Flag is: USA
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,376
Reputation: 30
Default

I have never had to wash my metal models just prime them and paint. I have never had a problem with it and I've been doing them since 1990 so maybe I have just been really lucky not getting the ones covering in mold release.


Red Orc
"Ahh, isn't Morfang sweet, like a great big 350-pound (that's 25 stone, UK users!) ball of cuddly death...?"


God, gives children to people so that death won't seem so disappointing.
morfangdakka is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums > Hobby > Modelling and Painting

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Wargaming Forum and Wargamer Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome