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post #101 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-13-13, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Magpie_Oz View Post
Yeh that is weird, it's the alchy in the Dettol that does the work.

Was it 100% pure you used ?
Just checked the bottle and it says 'Isopropyl Alcohol, 99% pure'. Is this why it didn't work?
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post #102 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-13-13, 02:27 PM
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Gothic, I'd advise not using Dettol. When I used it, the paint just sort of went... Sludgy. Ruined an entire army for me.
I have been paint stripping with dettol for over 2 years now and never had a problem. I have stripped citadel, vallejo and humbrol paints and never had this problem with any of them.

Not sure what you mean by 'sludgy'. The paint does go a rubbery texture after soaking them in Dettol, but that means it's worked. You then just scrub it off with a toothbrush.

Not sure if you did this, but if you add water at any point, the paint will turn extremely sticky and you will end up with sticky residue all over your model, which ruins the whole process and I am not sure if you can correct this with a second soak. The only exception to this is right at the end when ALL the paint is off, I will put the models in hot water with washing up liquid to get rid of the smell and residual dettol and then dry them on some kitchen roll.

So not sure what you did wrong mate or whether the models were painted with an 'unusual' paint range. Tell us what you did and we can probably help you.

One thing I do have a problem with though is on very heavily painted old models with multiple layers of paint. It is sometimes hard to get all the paint out of the recesses, even with a second soak.
I am thinking of buying an ultrasonic cleaner and putting isoproply alcohol in it to put the models in after I have scrubbed with the toothbrush. Hopefully this will remove the paint in the recesses much better. Dunno if anyone here can vouch for that method though?
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post #103 of 126 (permalink) Old 04-14-13, 12:09 AM
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Just checked the bottle and it says 'Isopropyl Alcohol, 99% pure'. Is this why it didn't work?
No that's what I use too so it shouldn't be a problem.
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post #104 of 126 (permalink) Old 08-12-13, 12:50 AM
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I decided to get back into the WH40K after being gone since the RT days. I picked up some marines, started working on a DIY chapter and started testing some paint schemes on some plastic marines with the new Citadel paints. Oh, now I miss metal where I could just toss them into acetone for a quick strip and experiment anew. So I read and read and read and read various forums on how to best strip plastic miniatures. So here is what I found:

Sample miniatures are the $10 pack of three space marines. Since they consist of only of three parts, they are very durable when it comes to the paint, strip and repeat process.

Sample miniatures where primed with Armory spray primer white, coated with a base of Aveerland Sunset, one shaded layered with Cassandra Yellow, another with Seraphim Sepia, another with Nuln Oil, layered multiple layers of Yriel Yellow and then I decided I am not doing this by hand and started prepping the airbrush. And yes, I am mad for messing with a yellow (more like yellow-orange) paint scheme.

Scrubbing instrument was a Colgate medium toothbrush.

A simple glass cup held the miniatures and enough solution was used to completely cover them.

In multiple day soaks, the miniature was removed once every 12 hours and scrubbed with a toothbrush and then returned to the solution and care was taken not to dilute the solution with excess water.

For grading, the miniature needs to be stripped completely to get a passing grade. How quickly it strips, the ease of its use, its safety, etc. will determine the passing grade.

Cleaner: Concentrated Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner
Source: Randalls supermarket
Time: 4 to 5 days
Grade: F
Results: Two miniatures taken down to the primer and another to the base coat. Primer wouldn't budge and I made more progress with my thumbnail. There was enough paint and primer left on all of the miniatures to make them unpaintable again.
Notes: I don't see how this stuff gets the acclaim that it gets. I have heard rumors that the ingredients were changed to make it gentler on the hands which probably killed the active ingredient that stripped paint. Otherwise, the only way this stuff is stripping paint in a hour is if you toss the miniatures in while the paint is still wet. I also hear there is another version with the degreaser on the label. Even had it worked, a five day soak just slows me down way too much and would have gotten a D or at best a C.

Let's step it up and break out the plastic gloves and access to fresh air. Miniatures are washed and dried and then two were thrown on one solution and one in another.

Cleaner: Purple Power (Concentrated industrial strength cleaner/degreaser)
Source: Autozone
Time: 5+ days
Grade: F
Results: Nothing. I couldn't tell if there was any progress from what Simple Green had removed.
Notes: You will want to wear plastic gloves as these two cleaners can sting the hands and I expect that the degreaser isn't nice on bare skin. One is worse than the other but I didn't note which. After soakingfor over a week, the remaining paint and primer would not budge. On the bright side, they didn't destroy the miniatures. Repeated scrubbings caused the glue to weaken and the plastic pins to break on some of the miniatures. I used cyanoacrylate and I will probably use plastic cement next time to make the bonds more permanent.

Cleaner: Super Clean (Dissolves grease. Supereasy, Superfsat.)
Source: Autozone
Time: 5+ days
Grade: F
Results: Nothing. I couldn't tell if there was any progress from what Simple Green had removed.
Notes: Superdidntwork. Ditto as the first. Complete disappointment.

So I was ranting to a gamer coworker and she mentioned, "Well why don't you use mail polish remover?" My replay was, "We can't; it destroys plastic minis." And her replay was "Well my nails are plastic..." So the miniatures are useless as they are now and it wouldn't hurt to lose one while I look up some other solvents. I had heard of reports of people melting miniatures even with the non-acetone nail polish remover, so I was going to avoid it originally.

Cleaner: Generic non-acetone nail polish remover (methyl acetate)
Source: Randalls supermarket
Time: 1-5 minutes
Grade: A
Results: Almost no paint left on the miniatures. There are a couple of flecks near the corners of the legs and where there might have been some glue.
Notes: I was stunned. It's like working with the acetone on metal. I think someone mentioned a 24 hour soak. That seems way too excessive and I don't know if I would take that risk. Soak a miniature for a couple of minutes, wet toothbrush with nail polish remover and scrub. Wash miniature with soap and water and inspect the results. Basically, all paint was gone in about 15 minutes. When you first remove the miniature from the non-acetone bath, it will feel slightly slimy. This had me worried as I first thought that the plastic was softened, but after running the miniature under water the sensation went away. I tested the base and miniature itself and could not find any evidence of softening of the the plastic. It also seems less volatile and not as quick to dry out your skin as acetone which is another plus.

I have not tested these on resin finecasts.

I was going to try Dettol and isopropyl alcohol, but seeing the excellent results I had with methyl acetate, I don't know if I want to spend the effort aside from the sake of completeness.

Last edited by zend0g; 08-12-13 at 12:54 AM.
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post #105 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-03-14, 01:57 PM
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Can confirm.

Brown Dettol liquid from poundland works a treat. Just soak your models in a jar overnight and scrub it off the next day with a toothbrush. Just make sure to do it in an area covered with newspaper or outside as the splashback can be bad. Also wear latex gloves or your hands will be a horrid mess of oily nastiness.
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post #106 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-05-14, 12:48 AM
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Icon Tips: Dettol / Fairy Power Spray and Acertone Free Nail Varnish Remover -

Some UK based info:

Dettol (brown) - It doesn't mix well with water. That is what creates the slimey sludge as the Dettol does not break down the paint, but does remove it. I've not used it yet (due to not being able to rinse off with water as I go) but I hear it is also smelly, but very cheap.
[Cheap - can be "gunky"]

Acertone Free Nail Varnish Remover - This is my go to product. Works really well on metal, and can do plastics too but don't leave them in the solution too long as I left some in there for many days (weeks?), and the plastic did start to soften. I am sure a day or two was fine, but test with old model first. It's fairly cheap and best of all it can be used with water to rinse off as you scrub at it with a toothbrush.
[Cheap - Good for Metal. Take care with plastic, safe for overnight use]

Fairy Power Spray - I use this for my vehicles due to the fact you can spray it on. It is a little pricey (look out for it on sale, 2 at Wilkinsons last week down from about 3.20) but I've left Rhinos and Dreads soaking it in for many days and have no softening of the plastic at all. Good results for plastic, not tried it on metal as the Acertone Free NVR is cheaper and does metal 100%.
[Pricey - Good for Plastic, can soak for a day]
I've not actually tried FPS on metal, but would assume it would works just fine.

Something to note is that the Acertone Free ail Varnish Remover & the Fairy Power Spray actually break down the paint as well. So the solution is reusable, and you are not left with lots of gunk.
The last time I went to strip Mr Dreadnought the FPS that was left in the tupperware had turned into paste like clumps, but adding fresh FPS to the paste and putting it on the plastic worked just fine and the paste soon got reabsorbed back into the fresh solution.

AF-NVR & FPS both works fine in tupperware too.
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post #107 of 126 (permalink) Old 08-01-15, 02:30 PM
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Recently used iso propyl alcohol on metal and resin models, worked an absolute treat, was hesitant with the resin but it worked great, mini left for about 35mins in the stuff, and you can recycle the stuff by straining it through a piece of gauze

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post #108 of 126 (permalink) Old 08-01-15, 07:07 PM
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Recently used iso propyl alcohol on metal and resin models, worked an absolute treat, was hesitant with the resin but it worked great, mini left for about 35mins in the stuff, and you can recycle the stuff by straining it through a piece of gauze
Wish I had known that before I poured the already used product down the drain.

I use the 91% and it works great. I would definitely recommend it. Cheap and easy to buy.

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post #109 of 126 (permalink) Old 08-02-15, 12:12 PM
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Recently used iso propyl alcohol on metal and resin models, worked an absolute treat, was hesitant with the resin but it worked great, mini left for about 35mins in the stuff, and you can recycle the stuff by straining it through a piece of gauze
Resin being forge world resin or finecast? I have a substantial goblin army I want to strip all together which is composed of plastic, metal and finecast.

I have used fairy power spray in the past but it costs a damn fortune and takes at least two soaks in pure liquid to get to the primer on plastics so I am looking for an alternative.

I have also tried dettol but the paint removal isn't very substantial and even when I don't add any water whatsoever I seem to gunk my models and ruin them.
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post #110 of 126 (permalink) Old 08-02-15, 07:38 PM
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@alasdair , it was forge world resin mate, you can save quite a bit of cash using the isopropyl alcohol by straining the used stuff through a bit of gauze take all the large suit out and reuse it

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