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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-08, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Default Transfers

How do you get transfers to look like they're painted on? Whenever I put them on you can always tell that it was a transfer, IE the transparent square around it is clearly visible. I've tried painting the edges of the transparent part itself, but that did no good.

Also, how do you put transfers onto curved surfaces, like shoulderpads? There always seems to be those little edges that pop up when I do it. Am I not using enough water?

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-08, 06:10 AM
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Transfers are junk... just freehand stuff--it's not hard.

There are transfer seal products out there, but my experience has always been that even after using them, you still see the film since there's physically something there to see-- the paint and matte varnish can obscure it, but not hide it. Oh, and transfers rub off really easily.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-08, 03:52 PM
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:rolls eyes: that Son of Horus... what a card.

I play SMs with the easiest logo there is - Ultramarines - and Orks - who have no standards as far as the application of iconography goes - but all my freehand still looks shite.

Transfers will never look exactly right, as the clear film is always visible, just as SoH says. But if you're freehand isn't so good either, you have to make a choice - use a transfer, which is easy but has a shiny surround and may not go on the shoulder-pad properly; or paint the markings in, which is harder to do but will, with a bit of care and practice, produce a better result (in theory, anyway).

Me, I go for transfers, because I'm lazy and untalented in the brush-wielding department. I just find it so much easier, and I put up with the flaking, the occassional accident as I put too much water on and notice days later that the transfer has 'slipped', and the strange bunching that results from trying to get a flat object to stick to a surface that curves away in two directions.

In short, there's not so much you can do; it's more a question of adjusting your mindset so that imperfections of transfers don't bother you.

:philosophical cyclops:

"Well it's Forty-one Thousand Nine Hundred Sixty-nine OK -
Gotta war across the Milky Way - "
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-08, 06:39 PM
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To stop the shoulder-pad problem, i normally use my knife to slice the transfer from the centre to the centre top (dependant on the style of the tranfer), and overlap the two sides of the slit created. This worked well on my ultramarine test figure, and i'm gonna try it with my crimson fists
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-13-08, 08:20 PM
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You're right that it works for UMs - but they have a 'gap' at the top of the "U"; not so sure how that will work with a Crimson Fist icon...

:hoping it works out for you cyclops:

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-14-08, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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Well I'm kinda screwed either way I do it, the Mark of Khorne can't exactly be cut like that, and freehanding it for each model will be a pain, but I shall suffer for my art. Freehanding it is.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-14-08, 04:31 AM
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The mark of Khorne is one of the easier "complex" designs to freehand.

Start with a big X. Draw lines across the top, through the middle, and on the bottom so you've got three horizontal lines through the X. Then, draw lines down from the ends of the bottom line and the endpoints of the X, and paint the background color over the line between the two halves of the X on the top line. It doesn't need to be exactly straight-- a more wavy design can look like a brand or a scar.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-14-08, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Son of Horus View Post
The mark of Khorne is one of the easier "complex" designs to freehand.

Start with a big X. Draw lines across the top, through the middle, and on the bottom so you've got three horizontal lines through the X. Then, draw lines down from the ends of the bottom line and the endpoints of the X, and paint the background color over the line between the two halves of the X on the top line. It doesn't need to be exactly straight-- a more wavy design can look like a brand or a scar.
Lol, that helps a lot.
Thanks :D

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