The forceswords are basically split in two halves. One half is blended from a dark blue to a light blue from the top to the bottom, the other half from the bottom to the top.
The whole sword is given a basecoat of vallejo model color dark prussian blue.
Then I mix 50/50 dark prussian blue and vallejo model color medium blue. This is applied to 4/5th of the edge that you are blending, leaving only a little of the dark basecoat showing.
I then aply pure medium blue (thinned down however) up from the 3/5 part upward.
Then a mix of medium blue and vallejo game color electric blue is made. This is used even more towards the end.
Then some thinned down electric blue on it's own.
Then the tips or base of the swords are done using vallejo game color sky blue. At that point, I use the skyblue to give the edges of the blades a sharp highlight by running the side of my brush along the edges. I do the same for the centre line of the blade. Be carefull to not have too much paint on your bush there, or it'll leave smudges and blobs. It's not like it should be a drybrush, but it's getting pretty close to that point.
Anyway, once that highlight is aplied, I use vallejo game color blue ink and water it down to about 4 parts water, one part ink (so still relatively rich on pigment for an ink/glaze). I then aply 2-3 coats of this glaze along the blade. After the glaze has been aplied, I clean out my brush and draw the ink away from the sharpest highlights need the tip or base of the sword (you don't want the ink to pool up in there).
After the glazes are aplied, I rehighlight the edges of the sword again with sky blue. I also run a few stripes along the blade to simulate the force effect. I'm not a big fan of the lightning effect (mostly because I cannot excecute it properly... :-p)
For the final highlight, a thinned down vallejo model color glossy white coat is aplied to the very top and base of the blade (depending on the way you blended it, obviously). This should be very minimal however.
Hope that helps!