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Blackadder's Landkreuzer P500; Die Wühlmaus

21K views 243 replies 13 participants last post by  Old Man78 
#1 · (Edited)
The Black Library of Caltroon:

The Black Library of Caltroon mentions the 'Armories' carved out of the living rock in the mountains of Cardiff boarding the Tyne estuary. What little is known of the 'Armories' is there are numerous galleries that go on for miles on each level and and it has never been established how many levels there are.

All that is know is all the exploratory parties no matter how well armed and provisioned never return from the depths and sometimes eerie howls reverberate from below............

So they are described in the Novel, 'The Lords of the Starship'

The Blackadder has exhumed from the safer levels a forgotten behemoth he calls the Landkreuzer P500; Der Wühlmaus.

http://i.imgur.com/gCCG15S.jpg


More than half again the size of the 300 tonne Baneblade the P500 weighs in at 500 metric tons and was the creation of the Blackadder when he tried to scratch build a Baneblade from images he found on the internet more than six years ago.

Not being as practice as he is now about all he got right was the width of the hull and tracks from the front, 8.4 meters. I guess that excludes the sponsons.

Seen here compared in size to his favorite tank Arethusa

http://i.imgur.com/MF75gyP.jpg


Once again Blackadder has taken up the cudgel and will attempt to complete this monster as a noble companion to his titan squad.

http://i.imgur.com/8keowq4.jpg


Of course this will be in the Lucius pattern and I may revamp the asymmetrical superstructure and center the turret.

It will have dual Main cannons, outsized sponsons dual Lasers surmounting the sponsons that will house 90° arc rotating bolters.

http://i.imgur.com/5JS6Q1o.jpg


So aside from everything else I intend to do this shall also be on my plate.

After all I have 38,000 years before these have to be ready.........
 
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#146 ·
Kraken is good stuff.

One of my favorites is to make a boiler maker using Kraken and a good India pale ale.
 
#147 ·
Three Times the Charm;

This is the third time I have attempted to replicate the engine cowling of the Baneblade The first was my Armorcast upgrade, the second was my Titan Hunter (Shown here) and now The Land Kruezer where the parts are about 1/8th bigger.

http://i.imgur.com/6XU916i.jpg


Beginning with the 'Chiclet' shaped air intakes and the rear grill work here shown half completed........

http://i.imgur.com/k3tMbG9.jpg


The tools required are shown.
 
#148 ·
Your precision with these is excellent. I got out some plasticard for the first time yesterday and found it bowed a lot when cut with a scalpel, sometimes leading to really messed up lines.

That was a nice drink, my thanks! To give you one in return, I heartily recommend wetting your throat with crushed ice, home made ginger beer and Gosling's Black Seal rum. It isn't spiced, but it's so dark it may as well be. Also a powerful brew.
 
#149 ·
Self-Taught Tutorial:

You need a "Utility Knife" not a scalpel. use the score and snap method outlined below. a single firm score is all that is needed with 1,0 to 1,5 MM white sheet styrene. A couple of passes for thicker material.

While we are on the subject this is a good opportunity to demonstrate how I cut clear styrene. The following method I use also for cutting white styrene up to 1,5 mm as well but being softer than 'clear' styrene white styrene does not require as many score cuts to make a separation.

Clear styrene is rather more brittle than white styrene so you can save yourself a lot of grief by not trying to cut around corners or curves, chances are the sheet will shatter and always in the wrong way.

Plan your work and cut only straight cuts; this may seem wasteful but much less so than failed angled or curved cuts.

First I measured the width of the strip I required; in this case 17 MM.

I scratched a small marker where I wanted the cut to be:

http://i.imgur.com/BGEmQY5.jpg


Employing my utility knife and a fairly accurate combination square I scored a fine line on the surface of the clear styrene. I would suggest a hard surface and not a foam cutting mat as shown here but the cutting mat shows the scored line better.

http://i.imgur.com/B8RsdlW.jpg


Once you have the scored line, you can either remove the square or chance deepening the score with repeated passes with the knife but bear in mind that each pass increases the possibility of slipping or cracking the styrene.

I removed the square after the second pass and then after relied on the depth of the score to keep the knife from slipping.

I made half a dozen more passes until the score was deep enough to attempt snapping the line.

Try to snap the line gently and evenly apply pressure along the length of the cut instead of a localized point.

If it seems you need undue pressure score the line deeper rather than applying more pressure which could shatter the sheet.

http://i.imgur.com/e2268W3.jpg


The result is a cleanly cut strip that will require little or no final sanding.
 
#150 ·
Tools of the Trade:

There has been a few questions regarding the amount of tools necessary to build my projects. I do have a lot of special tools that I need for work. I have been a mechanic all my adult life but to work on styrene models the material being so soft and malleable I find the most basic hand tools are sufficient to perform any of the work you see here.

Aside from the tools pictured here I would add an X-acto razor saw and the small diameter X-acto knife with a goodly supply of the # 11 blades.

When I get into the fine detail work I will break out my Jeweler's files as well but aside from that this is all I have used so far on the Thunderhawk.



You can see that:

A good quality combination square is essential.

A good quality utility knife with a supply of sharp blades.

A medium sized X-acto knife handle with #18 X-acto chisel blade. chisel.

A wooden cutting board is essential as opposed to one of those plastic self healing cutting mats. That's just my preference but I'm a creature of habit.

A 8" sized single cut file.

Home made sanding blocks with coarse and 80 grit sandpaper adhered with double back tape

A 6" scale graded in 1/64th inch and millimeters.

A calculator

Sharp Pencils

I use Ambroid ProWeld thin plastic cement but as the brush is so clunky and thick and the bottle so easy to tip over I refill the Tamiya thin plastic cement bottle; it has a much more stable bottle and a very fine tipped brush. When the fluid level in the bottle gets too low I drop in a few glass marbles to raise the level.
 
#153 ·
I tried to do my engine vents the way you did, on my shadowsword but lacked the skill so plumbed for kit bashing and used doors off a rhino, once again your work has inspired me to dismantel and rebuild. On a more serious note, I have read some poor reviews on Kraken rum!
 
#154 · (Edited)
..............I have read some poor reviews on Kraken rum!
Obviously some Kritins(Cretins) of poor perspicacity; this is some potent stuff!

In point of reference a quadruple (That's eight ounces of 80 proof alcohol) doesn't phase me a bit but four ounces of this stuff; WOOF!
 
#156 ·
Thanks for the advice, it's really great to be able to see your method of work and hopefully improve my own by imitation.

Progress is looking sound, you have upscaled very well.
 
#157 ·
Exhaust Shielding:

Trying to make the exhaust shield panels and not too enthused at the results. Once made I'll try them out on the hull but I think I can do better.

Anyway the basic design/ fabrication steps are doable it's just the results that are flawed.

http://i.imgur.com/i2Ev3gV.jpg
 
#160 ·
Exhaust cooling plates V2.0:

Thanks to Oldman78........

The second try at making a convincing hole pattern on these cooling plate for the mufflers. Once the hole pattern glue is dry I shall drill out the centers of each ring and sand the plats paper thin and bend around the exhaust stack and glue in place

http://i.imgur.com/aMf1jd7.jpg


Provided all goes well.........
 
#162 ·
They All Laughed:

At Christopher Columbus yada yada yada.......

It worked; symmetry and toughness now all needs to be done is score the backside to make the curve and I'll have duplicated this rather intense hole array.

http://i.imgur.com/PLjHHfg.jpg


The problem was not so much the pattern of the holes but making the material strong enough to take the curves without cracks and splits radiating from around the cutouts when the material is bent and glued.

http://i.imgur.com/IPw7zAA.jpg


We'll see if my idea will solve that problem........
 
#164 ·
Martini Time:

Cause for celebration, the project worked!

http://i.imgur.com/xPG33wS.jpg


So well in point of fact that I have already carved off the previous effort in preparation for installing the new style heat dissipating shield.

http://i.imgur.com/BjFZq5E.jpg


I hope to have the completed mufflers ready this evening.

Martini time!

Oh just to show I do 'F' up now and then; I made the hole row plates much longer than was necessary. :blush:
 
#165 ·
Ahh, Much Better:

Good enough has never been my mantra; with a bit of elbow grease and an unhealthy dose of OCD I have a much better set of exhausts than my first effort.

http://i.imgur.com/wxPn2sL.jpg


All totaled perhaps about two to three hours of labor for these highly complex minor components but a lot of the sanding and shaping was done whist watching DVD movies so not much actual time was wasted.

http://i.imgur.com/OLw6s9W.


Seen here temporarily tacked in place just for show at this time as all the rivets need to be filed down to a uniform height.
 
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#168 ·
Quite a Chunk of Resin:

Anyone owning a FW Baneblade knows it's quite a chunk of highly detailed resin weighing in at close to a kilo (two pounds).

My Baneblade which I've had for eight or so years was rescued and repaired with TLC and is still my favorite FW vehicle (treaded that is)

This new model is coming along slowly as the detailing is quite exhausting and I do have other commitments but I managed the front 'bolt on' bumper today

http://i.imgur.com/vkADc6K.jpg


and yesterday evening some of the rear detail....

http://i.imgur.com/AIzkjqU.jpg


Slowly but surely it's getting done.
 
#169 ·
Whatever Insignia This Is:

Well after d*mned near a two month hiatus where in I repaired flood damage and added new baseboard to just about the entire first floor of my humble abode now recarpeted in deoxygenated blood red burgundy plush carpet, I'm back to building models; Yay!

So last night I resumed the outsized Baneblade style Super Duper heavy Stormhammer.

http://i.imgur.com/yy9bDbN.jpg


First order of business was to install the re-enforced armour panel for which the Lucius B'blade is noted. I really like this anachronistic appearance which somehow exemplifies a world lapsing into decay but still has the ability to squander resource on the futility of war. I used 0.030 inch 0,75 MM thickness styrene for the panels as 0.040"/1,0 MM looked too thick. As of right now all the panels are installed and the bitz and gewgaw need to be installed and fabricated and also the umpity ump rivets.

So now the winged skull insignia:

http://i.imgur.com/2yAzfkl.jpg


Seen here in the first stages with a few skulls scrounged from spare CoD floor panels and mounted on 7,0MM disks...........
 
#172 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies; you will be posting a WIP log of the build I trust? and yeah I'm still alive and will be sharing my "finest kind" recipes along with my somewhat vain attempts at humor :D

D'oh!

Of course it would help if I actually showed the "Winged Skull insignia" I am attempting to replicate;



http://i.imgur.com/amrthaz.jpg


I'm a bit out of practice posting.
 
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