Warhammer 40k Forum and Wargaming Forums banner

The Sacred Host of Ibu Shenka

9K views 45 replies 14 participants last post by  WarlordKaptainGrishnak 
#1 ·
Yes, another ProLogue by yours truly.

For as long as I have collected 40k, in my quirky way, I have always loved the Aztecs and their ways, so naturally I always had a soft spot for the reptillian Lizards of Lustria. Finding myself with access to loose change and being on location to do so, I purchased myself a Lizardmen Batallion, and some Water Effects, to begin my plunge into Fantasy.

As I'm also starting up an Imperial Guard army, I'd like these to be dual projects, one to compliment and motivate the other, if I bore of blacks and greys, I can paint blues and golds, and vice versa.

But I digress so onwards...

- Painting has not yet commenced
- Bases are to be Swamp bases; like this, or something more complex: Cutting bits out of the base, GS-ing a 'cup' under the base covering the whole, painting the base (inside of GS cup as a greenish colour), water effects in the cup.

I want the bases to be 3D whilst maintaing the models at the right LoS height, so this seems to be the most viable way.

-Fluff (the larger section for this post until assembly/painting begins)

Ibu Shenka (a made up god) is the a God of Mystery and Shadow, he is all but lost to time, having been removed from the runes and carvings by the Slann. Unknownst to the Slann, Ibu is crucial in the Old Ones Great Plan, however the reason for his removal was that there had been no spawnings of warriors that bore the shadowy black crest that represented Ibu. Then recently a while a Skink scouting party from Tlaxtlan were scouting past the ruins of Tlax, they encountered groups of Skinks, and later Chameleon Skinks unlike they had seen before.

The 'new' Skinks were on first glance the same as themselves, with teal coloured skin and deep blue scales, it wasnt until these Skinks raised their crests in anger at the intrusion, that the Tlaxtlan Skinks saw the black membrance between the crest and neck of the Skinks. After establishing a mutual distrust the Tlaxtlan Skinks were escorted towards the East Waters, upon reaching the coast, they were led into the swamps just inland from the Tuok River. Here they encountered a strange sub-species of Chameleon Skink, the Skinks still were able to blend into the terrain seamlessly, but in appearence were completely dissimilar to the normal Chameleons. They also appeared to be normal Skinks, sporting the same crest-to-neck membrance unlike average Chameleons, their skin was still teal, but their scales and crest were of the same shadowy black as the 'new'skinks, and their membrance colour was a yellowy-orange colour.

As they moved on, now escorted by more Skinks, and the Chameleons, they came to the ruins of a Fortress, as they neared more and more Lizardmen appeared, all seemed to sport some form of black spawn markings. Upon reaching the base of the Fortress, a Scar-Leader, mounted on a Carnosaur approached, demanding to know why the trespassers had entered the lands of Ibu Shenka. After much deliberation and negotiation the Tlaxtlan Skinks were released and returned to Tlaxtlan, there they notified their Slann of the return of the Shadowed Ones, the Forgotten.

Altun Ha, is the name of the Fortress, 'the Forgotten' call themselves, 'Chosen Shadows' and wait in their territory until they are given the sign to help in their place of the Old One's Great Plan


So they are painted as the normal blue Lizardmen, with black spawn markings,
Skinks are Skinks, Chameleon Skinks are painted as in fluff, all creatures used by the Chosen Shadows (Carnosaurs, Cold Ones, Stegadons) are painted like this

That's all I have off the top of my head for them at the moment so we'll see how we go.

Cheers,
Grish
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Update Numero Uno

I decided on one of my Special Units to be Chameleon Skinks, but the models just didn't gel with me. So I decided to convert some using the Skinks in my Battalion box. So here is the first test model for painting and Chameleon conversion. {the light in the photos isnt good so it's all abit dark}







I'm happy with it but would love some feedback, and the arms in progress, C&C appreciated before I finish the other skinks

Cheers,
Grish
 
#3 ·
I think he looks very chameleon like, great job! What I'd change though is the tail. If you'd look at most chameleons here on earth, most have their tails curled up like this one:



The only solution to get a tail like this is sculpting, though. So I don't know how many you want to make, but if it's more than 5 I'd just keep the straight tails. Or maybe only give the champion a curled tail or something.
 
#4 ·
Something about those eyes bugs me...lol
Suggestion - Perhaps cut them off, drill out sockets and use ickle beads with some sculpting. Have the eyes, sunk in the head/skull. Perhaps similar looking to a T-Rex.
You should be able to get more facial expressions this way. You could ever so slighly make frowns over the beady eyes for example, make them squint/wink.
The base idea sounds cool and should suit the model well.
Looking forward to the updates Grish. All the best,
Dusty
 
#5 ·
Cheers for the feed back guys;

@Bloodthirster: I don't really like the curly tails on the Chameleon models as it is, and some Chameleons have straight tails, plus my fluff says they are not the same as the normal Chameleon Skinks that Lizardmen encounter, non-curled tails may be one such trait. As for numbers there are 10 in the unit plus a Hero.

@Dusty: the eyes as is are MKI as such, so I can simply pluck em off (good ol' Green Stuff) and try to use smaller balls of GS, or as you suggested, drill out the eye sockets, and have larger balls of GS in them etc.
 
#7 ·
The skink looks very cool with that minor adjustment, i think you could have a really interesting log here :)


Will we be seeing some kind of Quetzacoatl special character?
 
#8 ·
Right, after having it done for a few days, I've gone back and looked at my skink test model, and I'm happy to say that I'm going to stick to this MK, as it is to scale, and it's only ten Skinks, and they're meant to be different anyway, in short, I'm sticking to what i know works.

Hopefully I can paint up at least another 2-3 Skinks this Sunday, will try doing some batch painting to see how I go. More pics then I guess

Grish
 
#9 ·
Sitrep

progress report;

hangovers dont help with painting :p however I have got 2 skinks GS-ed and primed to be painted, 1 Saurus in progress, a temple guard in progress, and a cold one in progress

no pics for now, possibly tomorrow afternoon
 
#11 ·
@Shadow Hawk; Yes I want to end up gaming with them, looking to split the 20 Saurus Warriors into 2 groups of 10, 10x with hand weapons and shields and 10x with spears.

Anywho pics are due, this is the WIP point of the afore mentioned models (Saurus, Temp.Guard, and Cold One) all are still WIP, though the Cold One's skin is at a good point for me.

All


Saurus




Temple Guard




Cold One



For now that is all, when I have time I'll finish off these guys and more pics will follow.

Enjoy,
Grish
 
#14 ·
Righto guys, I have one very busy week left of this Term for school, then I'm off for two weeks, so I am going to try and paint as many of these guys as I can, failing that at least getting as many as possible made up and primed and bases underway.

Not having much luck with my initial base idea so thinking of doing it like this;

Games Workshop Hobby Bases Article said:

Swampland
Texture: Sand, but leave patches bare.
Basecoat: Paint the sand with Scorched Brown, bare patches with Scorched Brown and Dark Angels Green mixed 50/50.
Highlight 1: Bestial Brown (Sand only).
Highlight 2: Bubonic Brown (Sand only).
Highlight 3: Bleached Bone.
Detail: Paint the indentations with Water Effects.
Rim: Graveyard Earth.
Scatter: Scorched Grass.
seems easier and less of a hassle while still looking good.

(also working on my 88th in this time)

Cheers,
Grish
 
#15 ·
...seems easier and less of a hassle....
Just as a word of warning, everyone I know who has used GW Water Effects says it takes much longer than advertised to dry and tends to go murky.

Not a great problem if you have time; however if you are looking for a quick base I would recommend a tester first so you know the actual drying time.
 
#17 ·
Unearthing this.

The above Saurus and Temple Guard are nearly done bar weapons.

In the process of establishing a method to paint the Lizards in bulk or at least faster than current pace.

To Paint;
19x Saurus
9x Temple Guard
9x Chameleon Skinks
1x Oxyotl
2x Skinks
1x Skink Priest
10x Cold Ones
1x Saurus Oldblood/Scar
1x Saurus Oldblood/Scar on Carnosaur

A bit to do but I am enjoying it. Seems I feel that I will be focusing on Fantasy over 40k, as in general Fantasy seems to be at a suitable price compared to 40k at the moment.

Grish
 
#18 · (Edited)
IBU DEMANDS PICTURE UPDATES ANF HE SHALT RECIEVE!!!

2nd last day of the holidays and some stuff has been painted. Due to crappy light source, I'm not sure how different the skin will turn out in the new photos compared to the older ones, but so you all know since the 50/50 Regal Blue:Hawk Turquoise basecoat the Saurus and Temple Guard have recieved their 50/50 Hawk Turquoise:Ice Blue coat and an Asurmen Blue wash. I've been using the GW sites tutorials for painting the Lizards as a Guide, then adapting to suit my tastes. Work on these guys continued after pics so this isnt their current state...Blabber mode OFF...Pictures ON...

Saurus
Current Stage: Shield based Merchite Red, Baal Red Wash. Gold based 50/50 Scorched Brown:Shining Gold



Temple Guard
Current Stage: As above



Chameleon Skink
Current Stage: All complete bar base and blowpipe arm (straps with ammo)


Additional Chameleon Skinks:
Skin and Scales complete. Membrane, weapons, eyes, teeth, claws to do.


Skink Priest
A fun model to paint, extra in a blister with the Skink Priest with Blowpipe (will count-as Oxyotl)


And a Sneak- Peek at my Oldblood/Kroq-Gar. Will play as Oldblood, but is pinned so when the time comes I can field him as Kroq-Gar, in a larger points game.


mainly additional stuff that was done was a basecoat for the gold (50/50 Scorched Brown:Shining Gold).

C&C if you want to. Any comments appreciated so I know this is even noticed :p

Hang loose,
Grish
 
#19 ·
I like your blues, probably the best part of your models. I'm not going to criticise until I see the finished model, but looking good so far. That means +rep.

Having a fantasy log can be discouraging, it seems nobody posts on them, but just keep going and more people will start to look at them.
 
#21 ·
Not so sure about the Saurus' skin, it seems to dull compared to the bright vivid colours that you have on the rest of your models. Otherwise your models look great, you have a good muscle tone, the bone and gold look good on the Temple Guard. Have some reputation.
 
#22 ·
@Shadow Hawk; I should have the initial Saurus, Temple Guard and Skink finished by tomorrow, just weapons and touch ups left.

@Dave; Why thank you. Using washes are good over a light base coat to help define some of those subtle lines.

@Wombat; I'm gonna call it the lighting or the angle, as both the Saurus and the Temple Guard are painted the same.

Thanks for the rep guys, and if you want a list/tut of what I used or did just give us a shout.

Grish
 
#24 ·
Last day of holidays <sad panda face> so painting is on the menu, completed the Saurus and Skink, and am pleased with both results.

But firstly, this is my full Chameleon Skink unit with Oxyotl, all eyes have been GS-ed.


Chameleon Skink


Saurus


Outside pics of the above finished works...because I could...




Grish
 
#25 ·
I do like the look of that chameleon unit, can't wait to see that painted up.

Your saurus is pretty good actually, I like the red. It could maybe be improved with some subtle hilighting. Give the gold a black wash next time before hilighting. It really gets some nice shades. You could try on that one now, but you'd have to be careful.

Anyways, looking forward to more
 
#26 ·
The gold as is has a 50/50 Scorched Brown:Shining Gold basecoat, Shining Gold coat, Burnished Gold coat, Gryphonne Sepia wash (to make the gold more goldish (? or yellow)), then Chainmail highlights. I find it works nicely, but I'm interested to know your reasons for a black wash.

I was tossing up doing highlights on the shield and most likely will when i have time next...possibly this weekend..damn school...

Grish
 
#28 · (Edited)
Definately will do. I mean what do I have to loose. Knowing how you get a darker wash once the pot is shaken, do you use a dark or light wash?

Grish

EDIT: Post 777 :p nothing special but it is triple 7 :victory:
 
#32 ·
yeah its nowhere near finished so the contrast of skin to scale is darker than if the red scales where more vibrant. And i need to do higlights on the skin yet.

Grish
 
#33 ·
Heya ladies, gents, kids and abominations,

I currently have exams but next week have more or less a whole week off :so_happy:

Sooo with 7 days off I though it would be nice to get some painting in, so I aim to paint as much of my current projects as possible, to reduce the piles of models. approx. 2 days per army project. So keep a look out cause next week photos should be a coming.

Grish
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top