I picked it up. The religion aspect is pretty good, though potentially a little over the top, as you can just buy great people with faith once you fully unlock 2nd tier culture paths.
The espionage system... is just bad. Tech theft is more or less unstoppable except by blind guessing (and luck). You can slow it down somewhat, but outright stopping it is difficult at best.
The changes to city-states are pretty meaningless. The 'quest' system isn't terrible, but at the end of the day you can still just buy city-state loyalty outright. And with religion, you've got more money (and more happiness).
Some of the new civs are also... questionable. Sweden particularly stands out as a wtf? civ power. Bonus influence if you give great people away? Well, I guess it is something to do with great artists since they can't culture bomb anymore.